Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[scubacat]

Nice! I forgot all about the fact that when I did the job, I replaced the PCV valve and also replaced that grommet since it had a really loose fit just like you mentioned. You may want to do that sometime and get rid of the duct tape just to be on the safe side. The rubber grommet is available as Dorman part # 42049 and it costs a whole 2 bucks. The PCV valve will fit a LOT more snug like you would expect with a new grommet.

I'd also just throw in a new PCV valve if yours is original. It's $8.62 on rockauto for the motorcraft one. (DON'T use an off-brand or the flow won't be exactly right and it may set the code all over again. At that price, I wouldn't even take the chance.)

PCV Valve:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=5052

Grommet:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...parttype=11785

[PJM361]

Originally Posted by veerg

I have not done it again. My state inspection was due by Dec 31. I was all set to do the job again in th first week of Jan. But just to try something. I took a duct tape. Cut an inch wide strip and wrapped it around the PCV valve to make it a tight fit. I happen to drive the van for about 80 miles and no CEL. Took it down to a Jiffy Lube and it passed inspection. It came back after about two weeks. I then really pushed the PCV valve in. It's been a month no CEL. I don't notice anything with the performance. If it comes back again, I will wait for a nice day and do it again.

Veerg , just wondering if this was a permanent fix. I did the repair back in 2009 and I also got the 0171 & 0174 codes again and it's idling rough.

[veerg]

PJM361,
No it is not fixed. The code comes back after about 100 miles. It take that long because of North Carolina summer heat. I know it will be much quicker in the Nov/Dec time. I have the kit and will do the repair again before the inspection time in Dec. I see no difference in the performance. Wife drives it about 50 miles per week. She is not complaining.

[12Ounce]

Well, just as I was celebrating our old '99 passing 428k miles while on a trip, the old codes P0171 and P0174 come back on. The problem seems to be a cold weather phenomenon. Guess that cold air coming through the intake takes its toll. This will be the third, perhaps fourth, time for replacing the bolts. I'm thinking of replacing only the grommets this time around; never did it that way before. Cheers!

[MTSpeedDemon]

I just had the plenum off of my Windstar today. Although I only just turned over 100,000 miles on mine. I did the bolts and gaskets last year and reused all the same stuff this time. I had it apart to replace the coolant bypass tube that goes between the intake manifold and the plenum.
Anyway, did you do the other stuff before like change the front valve cover to the new design, replace the PCV valve and have the computer reprogrammed? There's more to the TSB and bolt swap than just the bolts.

[12Ounce]

If you are asking me, then yes ... I did replace the valve cover, have replaced the PCV a couple of times, and did do the computer re-flash. (When I fist did this TSB, the replacement bolt-grommets were still black.) However, I have never updated the upper intake manifold piece ... to my mind, the updated design is a step in the wrong direction. Instead, I removed the inner air horn manifold (mine was clipped in-place) from the upper, and glued it to the middle piece. This has almost totally eliminated the fouling of the EGR jets.

BTW, belated kudos to the OP .... good work. (Note: I believe 8 bolts, not 6, are required.)

[12Ounce]

SHORTCUT ALERT: !!!

So I bought a set of FelPro ES 72204 grommets and began the task. I DID A SHORT CUT. Since I believe all seals were good, other than the grommets, I decided NOT to upset the intake middle manifold piece ... the one that the throttle body attaches too.

1. Disconnect a battery cable and remove wipers and cowl.
2. Remove plastic upper cover. (14 bolts or so). For access, disconnect spark cables from plugs on cyls 4, 5, and 6. Move aside.
3. Use bent wire to clear EGR jets if required.
4. ONE AT A TIME: Clean away puddled oil and remove one of the eight isolator bolts. Cut away the old grommet. Clean the bolt with brake cleaner. Apply Permatex Ultra Gray RTV to the bore of the grommet and install onto bolt. (The RTV, though messy, will help ease the assembly ... as well as offer additional sealing.) Apply RTV under head of bolt and under top end of black sleeve. Also apply RTV to main seal surface of grommet. Use blue paper towels to make sure seal area is clean and install bolt. Torque to spec ... 85 lb in's or so.

By installing bolts, one at a time, it is hoped that the middle piece is not disturbed and the lower seals will continue to do their job. Note how much work is not required for this procedure ... even the air filter is left in place. Time will tell if it is a good procedure ... my engine certainly runs sweeter.

[scubacat]

Nice work. I'm not a fan of RTV unless necessary but it can't hurt. The FelPro grommets actually seem "meatier" than the OEM ones so maybe they're better. Our van is entering it's 5th year on a set of the FelPro ones and no problems at all. (And it's plenty cold here in the winter in Chicagoland. I miss Atlanta this time of year especially!)

[12Ounce]

Side story on grommets: I wanted two sets of replacement grommets before beginning work in case I screwed up some of them. No single store in neighborhood had two sets, so I bought ....
One green set from AutoZone and one black set (wonder how long they had been on the shelf?) from CarQuest. All the same FelPro part number. The green ones made in USA. The black ones made in China. I'm keeping the black ones as extras.

[12Ounce]

50K miles have passed since doing the short cut above ... and the 171 & 174 codes were back! Along with lessening engine torque.

Naturally I assume something went wrong with short cut repair posted above, and I open up the upper intake. NOTHING WRONG, ALL CLEAN AND SOUND! I replace grommets since I'm in there ... for "maintenance". No effect. Then I replace the in-line fuel fillter .... BINGO! The Winnie is back!

I see from the code reader I'm about to have issues with the (never serviced) EVAP system ... might as well get the suspected parts on hand.

[bigpapamendo]

HAPPY THURSDAY.....WORKING ON 2000 WINDSTAR FROM HELL...BOUGHT USED ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO..STOPED RUNNING 2 FDAYS LATER..PATS SYSTEM ISSUES...NEW ECM... KEY PROGRAM AT FORD... ALL GOOD..THEN CAME PO171..PO174..NORMAL STALL PROBLEM AT IDLE..I DIDNT ADDRESS THE PROBLEM...THEN OUTTA THE BLUE STARTED MISSING REAL BAD..PO301..PO304..PO171..PO174..PO156..COULD MY LEAN CODES CAUSE THIS??? checked spark...all good...checked injector harness and made repairs. ANY ADVICE??

[Mustang_Driver]

as these vans get older they require a little/lot more maintenance, while i was in changing the seals for the intake plenum and i had the top section of the motor apart i went and changed my plugs as well and while you have a missfire on 2 cylinders you might want to check the coil pack located under the cowl attached to the valve cover by 3 bolts. when i pulled mine i had spider cracks all through the epoxy which didn't cause any mis firing at that point but i replaced the coil as well


so when i did mine i did:
6 spark plugs
sparkplug wires
coil pack
isolator bolts
all the gaskets
front valve cover
pcv valve
fuel regulator vacuum line


most of it was replaced as when you buy the valve cover repair kit it comes with everything including the new valve cover as the factory part allowed too much oil into the intake manifold (Poor Design) kit is put out by dorman and the number is 615-177 :
https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsear...Repair%2520Kit


soo all you need to do is buy the plugs, wires,coil pack and your good to go took me all of about 2.5 hrs to complete but i was cleaning parts and taking too many coffee breaks, if your going to keep it for awhile i would also suggest changing the fuel filter if you don't know when it was changed


there is also a stick about the p171,p174 issue on the forum i found it useful as well