Ignition Switch replacement procedure

[barpat96]

when taking the white connector off you have to turn and pull at the same time toward the passenger side or to the right. I still don't understand why you want to mess with the ignition switch itself when you explained an electrical problem.
Have Fun!

[Sfrid073]

You dont have to turn the key at all. Just grab the little white switch and turn it clockwise. It should then just pop out.

[BlazerLT]

I would like to be a mod.....

I would get a good buch of stickies going.

[recurve]

I got the white connector off. Here is the deal. When looking above the steering wheel (from the ceiling looking down) you will see two small pieces of aluminum holding the white connector from above. Between these two small pieces of aluminum is an open space. You will discover that there is a small plastic lever attached to the white connector. You will need a jeweler's screw driver (or something thin and strong) to stick in that cavity and push on the plastic lever.

I pushed with the screw driver on the side of the cavity closest to the engine block (instead of the side close to my stomach) and the white connector started to rotate and popped out quite easily. Not much force was needed at all. When looking from above, the white connector rotated out with a clockwise motion on a plane parallel to road.

Thanks,
-- recurve

[recurve]

Barpat, I think you confused me with someone else. Remember you told me to remove the ignition switch and clean the contacts.

Take care,
-- recurve

[ddub]

This procedure saved me a ton of time. I will not that there is a procedure for removing the lock cylinder without the plastic cut. If remove all the torx screws holding the plastic to the collum you can slip your hand and a 3/16 or so sized allen key under the plastic. Put the key in the ignition...turn Key to "start".. push allen key down into small hole in the top of the lock cylinder...(tough to see without a picture) and press down...turn key to "on" position and the key and start cylinder will pull straight out...

The bad news is that I dont think this fixed my problem.

[BlazerLT]

You sure?

[cscope]

i'm the nu guy on the block with this problem, 97 blazer,no idiot lights, no fuel pump, no start. when i have idiot lights, i have fuel pump, i have start. so i'm going to follow your directions and report back on my resolve. thx 4 being involved w/blazers... cscope

[ddub]

OK....update.... I had a memory of this initial post where the poster says "the white thing goes outside of the black ignition block".. or something like that. In front of the ignition harness is the neutral start/steering wheel lockout solenoid. When the dealer put the ignition block back on from a previous service they put this solenoid under the ignition harness block...This is wrong... I believe now that that installation is what has caused me to replace the iginiton harness... the starter/solenoid... and the battery.... Be cautious in your re-install. Also I have an ignition harness for this thing that seems to be in fine shape... anyone care to purchace a used ignition harness ?

[Travisthetiger]

I've had to replace/fix my ignition switch a few times. After the third time I figured out that a new switch was not needed, just an adjustment to line up the teeth. If you haven't purchased a new ignition switch, I suggest trying this to save money. When looking at the gear teeth on the old switch, rotate the gear so that there is a single tooth to the left, then a gap, then the rest of the teeth to the right. The gap between the teeth should be at a 90 degree angle to the switch (straight out). Turn the key to the AUX position and reinsert the switch. This should line everything up correctly and all you have to do is put everything back together. To get the key to rotate there is a push button under the steering column that can be pushed in. This should disengage the locking mechanism (sort of like those vehicles that you have to push the button to remove the key). As far as the white connector is concerned....it should twist out "fairly easily".

If you are having problems pulling the old switch out, there are two square holes on each side that you can insert a paper clip into (one at a time while pulling the switch out) and the switch should slide right out.

I haven't done this procedure ina while, so if I missed a step, or if it's still giving you problems, I'd be willing to take mine apart again and write everything down. I might even take pictures. LOL

[jeffdu3]

I had a engine 4.3 4X4 that would turn over but not start. No Idiot lights or gauges and could not get a diagnostic reading from computer dead on ignition side suspected ignition switch so this post of yours really helped me on installing the new one thanks.

[jeffdu3]

this is the orig post http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...CH+REPLACEMENT

[Blazerator]

Great post! Kudos to Sfrid073 for the great info.

I have a 97 Blazer LT 4.3 S10 that always has something failing - and I try to take excellent care of my stuff - and after spending ungodly amounts on shop labor I have decided to take matters into my own hands going forward where possible.

I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with...

A couple of weeks ago the dashboard lights started acting up. They would come on after a few seconds and the vehicle wouldn't start until then. In a moment of frustration I banged on the steering column housing and they would pop on and off I would go - but it's been getting worse. I removed the column housing (did not need to remove the key cylinder cap(?)) and found that a small tap on the black box under the key cylinder would fire up the dash lights. This is all connected to the wiring harness described in this post. To order the part am I calling this the ignition module or is there a different or more accurate term? Anybody know the part number?

I am also pretty handy with a soldering gun. Is this something I could fix myself or (as I assume) does it need to be replaced?


The other question I have relates to the tranny. The same time that my ignition started to give me issues the tranny was having a hard time shifting. It would bang into second gear and would not go into overdrive. The dealership recommended a "transmission fluid transfusion" for $180. I thought this was ridiculous but it seemed to clear up the issues. What is this procedure and how does it differ from an oil change? I have about 130K on this vehicle. I've read that doing anything to the tranny at high mileage is a recipe for disaster. Is this going to be the probable case?


FYI: The water pump, security system, electric mirrors, rear wiper (and leaking hose), upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, stereo (and one rear speaker), heater core and fan, serpentine tensioner, brake fluid container, A/C, leaking tranny pan, engine oil leak (that the dealership cannot find without an unreasonable bill), possible leaking intake manifold, and what the dealer called a propeller shaft (small drive shaft that powers the front wheels blew right out of the vehicle) etc., etc., etc. have either been replaced or have quit working. This is beside all of the expected maintenance that I have done on a regular basis. I change the oil more often than I should and now flush the rad every couple of years. I keep the engine so clean you could eat off it. I have owned a bunch of GM's products (High Sierra, Chevelle, Nova, Cutlass, Camaro - younger days, J6000, Park Avenue, Blazer,) but I will need a lot of convincing to buy another one...

Thanks in advance for any help with my questions.

[Blazerator]

Forget it...

In the past five weeks, since my 97 Blazer hit 130,000 miles the following has failed:

Crank sensor
Transmission sensor (solenoid?)
Ignition switch
ABS brakes
Two oil compression line leaks
Intake manifold leak
Transmission is haveing a hard time coming out of second gear - and sometimes doesn't.

I keep my cars in excellent shape - you could eat off the engine - so how is it possible that all this failed as soon as I hit 130K? Answer: It was engineered that way. When I think of all the money I have put into this GM lemon I could cry - I could have also bought a Mercedes.

Dealership also refused to do two items of recall work - the driver seatbelt issue and the electric mirror issue.


I am throwing a match in the back of my Blazer tonight. I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER GM PRODUCT AGAIN. EVER. PERIOD.

[mallenfam]

Sorry about the money pit. Our 97 Jimmy with 150k miles is presenting a lot of challenges for us recently too and I wonder if this generation of Blazers have exceptionally poor reliability. I have owned many GMs as well, and yes, they break a lot.

I don't recommend a Mercedes, however, since they have the lowest quality rating of the 36 nameplates sold in the US. We have bought several used cars for oour kids recently. All have developed difficult to diagnose/fix problems. These vehicles include the Blazer, a 2001 Dodge 1500, and a 2001 Audi A4. Our Mitsubishis have been the best vehicles we have owned so far.

Now on to replacing the ignition switch in our Jimmy to hopefully fix the tranny limp mode and get the key out...