MFH 1/12 Porsche 956 Short Tail Ver. 'B'

[nugundam93]

smart move with the solder. i thought you'd trim them a bit after mounting and then bang on them to shape it like a rivet.

[LenWoodruff]

Nice Eric.

[John18d]

Beautifully Done Eric

Really nice attention to details on the wheels and the rivets

Cheers
John

[Eric Cole]

Thanks guys. Not much more to show for now but more rivets have been added. In fact, I'm finally done with that step. Here's the last part...





And some of the engine parts set out and ready for priming and/or painting, assembly coming soon.

[Eric Cole]

Finally, engine assembly begins...

The parts were primed with grey primer then painted with various metalizers. Although difficult to tell in these photos the block was painted gun metal, the cylinders were painted with aluminum and the heads were painted with steel.

All parts were then overcaoted with flat clear to seal the metalizer. Once the flat clear had dried all the parts were washed with a medium/dark wash to bring out some details. After the wash dried a dry brush using AK Interactive Metal Wax (various shades of metal) to highlight some areas and bring it back to a 'metal' look.

It will get another light dull/semi-gloss clear coat because I think it's a little too "sparkly" at the moment. Last the nuts, bolts and other detail will be picked out and detail painted.





The fan shroud, which is resin in the kit, was cleaned up and primed grey. I mixed Tamiya TS-8 (Italian Red) and TS-33 (Hull Red). After looking at many pictures of the real car I determined that if the fan shroud was ever "just red" it was only when new or freshly restored. Most of the pictures showed a slightly brown'ish red and semi-gloss finish. This might be because of heat or age that caused it to fade to this color but this is close to my reference.

[Eric Cole]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement. Here's a few more engine pics after a little more progress.

Bottom of engine (never to be seen once installed in the car)


Top of engine. Still a lot more parts to add, details to paint, then all the plumbing and wiring and there'll need to be touch-up at the end. I hope to have the engine finished up this weekend.

[puffyrs]

Very nice

[Pascal D]

Great progress.

I'm not a big fan of your rivets, but it's far better then having no rivets at all.

Scalehardware.com has some excellent rivets : http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10

Sincerely

Pascal

[Eric Cole]

More progress on the engine. Getting closer to completion. This kit uses the wrong fuel system for this car and even though I have the correct system 3D printed I honestly like the incorrect systems looks better. To me, it fills up the area better and makes the engine look more complete. (And I have seen this system in pics of what appears to be the restored car).

A few more parts added, fuel filters, water pumps, cooling fan and altenator, etc. Also, a little more weathering in the form of dry brushing and washes and picked out a few more nuts and bolts with Titanium Gold. Pre-drilled a lot of holes for the kit suggested plumbing as well as a lot of additional plumbing that needs to be done. Still a lot of work to do!






And the cool fuel rails and injectors used with this fuel system. Once installed and plumbed with some braided line I think these will look great.

[Eric Cole]

Originally Posted by Pascal D

Great progress.

I'm not a big fan of your rivets, but it's far better then having no rivets at all.

Scalehardware.com has some excellent rivets : http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10

Sincerely

Pascal

Thanks Pascal. I did look at those but decided against the Scale Hardware rivets for various reasons;

1. I would need to spend nearly $160.00 to get enough rivets for this car.

2. The only .5mm rivets they have are made of brass and the smallest stainless steel was .7mm head diameter which to me would have looked too big especially in the areas where the rivets are close together.

3. Being stainless I knew the excess length of the rivets would be harder to cut flush with the back side of the parts. Even though the back side is not visible on some parts, it is visible on other parts after assembly.

I debated the options in my mind for a month and in the end I compromised and used a method I felt would be less expensive (this way probably cost me less the $5.00), easier to work with (soft solder), smaller since the solder is .4mm diameter, and still silver in the event that I rub off some paint along the build process which I plan on happening.

Maybe not a perfect example of a rivet but I agree, it's better than no rivet at all, and good enough for me I suppose.

[John18d]

WOW Eric - you are really making excellent progress on this MFH build.

you are really making the engine look great with all the bolt heads picked out -
it will be a shame that when the engine/transaxle is all together and in the car that so much will be hidden.
it is unfortunate that MFH does not include double the parts for the engine/transaxle so that one set could be installed and the other all completed and on a stand for display next to the car.

Anyhow kudos Eric - this is going so well and you are doing some really nice work with white metal parts that I am always waiting for the next posting.

Cheers
John

[Pascal D]

Thanks for the reply Eric,

Spending 160 bucks on rivets for one car doesn't make sense to my either.

Looking forward to your next update.

Sincerely

Pascal

[Eric Cole]

More engine progress. Some plumbing added, etc. The intake plenum on top of the engine is one of the few parts that will stay natural metal, I think it polishes up very close to how the real car looks.

I don't really like the "anodized" fittings. Basically just molded white metal fittings painted silver then painted with Tamiya clear red and clear blue. To me the color is not consistent enough and they're too glossy. I can take care of the glossiness by brushing a light coat of flat clear over them, which I plan to do before I go any further.

Here's a few general pics. The plenum is just set in place, not glued. I still have more work to do with wiring and plumbing before it gets attached permanently. If the front of the engine were more visible in the finished build the molded in belts on the pulleys would need to be removed and replaced with tape or some other material.

[Hemi Killer]

I like the colors of the metal, looks awesome.

[Vric]

Impressive!