replaced dead battery, now cranks but no start

[Tech II]

First off, I do't like using ether, it's too flammable...use carb cleaner....second, deid you leave everything intact when you sprayed the ether? You can't remove the snorkel and MAF when doing this.....I remove the IAT sensor, have red extension from nozzle inside the snorkel, and block the rest of the hole up with a rag....have someone crank the vehicle and then spray the carb cleaner........

Second, you have two systems....the CTD and VTD, the latter for starting.....

has this been scanned for "P" and "B" codes?

When you turn the key to on, all your idiot lights should come on for a few seconds as a bulb check and then go out.......Your check engine light and Security light should be on solid, with key on, engine off...

[JerseyGMC]

Originally Posted by Tech II

First off, I do't like using ether, it's too flammable...use carb cleaner....second, deid you leave everything intact when you sprayed the ether? You can't remove the snorkel and MAF when doing this.....I remove the IAT sensor, have red extension from nozzle inside the snorkel, and block the rest of the hole up with a rag....have someone crank the vehicle and then spray the carb cleaner........

Second, you have two systems....the CTD and VTD, the latter for starting.....

has this been scanned for "P" and "B" codes?

When you turn the key to on, all your idiot lights should come on for a few seconds as a bulb check and then go out.......Your check engine light and Security light should be on solid, with key on, engine off...

Second: all I have is what you see in the picture with the key ON. Also no other idiot lights come on at all except for the battery idiot light when the key is first turned on. Also I just realized with the key in the ON position I am unable to shift out of PARK on the shifter. The button will not disengage even with my foot on the brake pedal....

First - did not spray it with the snorkel and MAF put together not disconnected..

[JerseyGMC]

Looks like my mystery is solved and just wanted to pass this on to anyone else having my same issue.

A member chevychase over at TruckForums gave me what appears to be the smoking gun for my issue along with the web links to support it. WIth all the GM cars and trucks recalled I never thought of it but should have..
Now to comfirm issue then get the part. Will report final verdict later.

Originally Posted by chevychase

Read through thread sounds like the ignition switch..
GM truck bad ign. switch

Sparky's Answers: 1996 Chevrolet 1500 Truck Ignition Switch

Chevy GMC Truck Blazer Suburban S-10 Ignition switch replacement


Find video at youtube on this also

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by JerseyGMC

So here is what my dash looks like when I turn the key on:
As you can see the trip odometer lights up as does the battery light in the
top right corner. Not sure what that means... anyone?

Key on battery light is good.
But your volt meter and fuel gauge shuld be reafding voltage and fuel level and also the check engine light should be on and security lightshold come on and blink or flash and go out and sir and ABS lght shouls come on and go out.

[JerseyGMC]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Key on battery light is good.
But your volt meter and fuel gauge shuld be reafding voltage and fuel level and also the check engine light should be on and security lightshold come on and blink or flash and go out and sir and ABS lght shouls come on and go out.

Ok performed a key off test. Fuses 2, 8, 7, 13 and 19 have power all others do not. Now with key ON only fuse 4, 5, 6, 12 and 16 have no power all other fuses have power. Fuse 6 and 12 get power when I turn on the head lights, which also illuminates the dash cluster. So only 4 and 16 have no power in any condition. 4 is for the Gauges and 16 is labeled SIR which I don't know what that is. BUT since 4 is not getting power and the fuse is good, and from what I found out from the other posts is that the gauges get power when key is turned on, I conclude its the ignition switch... what do you guys think?

[j cAT]

could be the ignition switch . I would check all the fuses making sure they fit tightly in the sockets. I would remove the fuse and check with an ohm meter.also with good light check that the fuse element is not partially melted.. had a problem like that before fuse was intermittent..

loose / corroded fuses can do this... also wire connectors ..checking at the ignition switch and having an accurate wiring diagram is how to track this down .

[JerseyGMC]

Ok so I went about the task today of taking the column apart per the instructions I found. Some of the steps were different but I was not concerned until I got to the part about removing the cylinder housing to release the ignition switch. It says to remove 2 torx screws to release the switch... I don't have 2... as a matter of fact my column looks nothing like the one in the instructions... . So the ignition switch I purchase looks nothing like this one... my Jimmy is a 2000 but maybe it is made up with 2001 parts

Here is what mines looks like:

[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]


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[IMG][/IMG]

[JerseyGMC]

Well looks like I am actually most of the way done with the removal process with the exception of not having the right part. Advanced Auto shows a different part then RockAudo.com. Here is the one Rockauto.com shows. So I am either going to get it from them or see if one of the other independent auto parts stores can get it. Today being Sunday only a couple of the regulars are open. Might get lucky enough to get it still today and finish up, if not there is always Monday I suppose:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...991&cc=1362877

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by JerseyGMC

Well looks like I am actually most of the way done with the removal process with the exception of not having the right part. Advanced Auto shows a different part then RockAudo.com. Here is the one Rockauto.com shows. So I am either going to get it from them or see if one of the other independent auto parts stores can get it. Today being Sunday only a couple of the regulars are open. Might get lucky enough to get it still today and finish up, if not there is always Monday I suppose:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...991&cc=1362877

get the ACDELCO D1423D find a supplier on line for less than dealer.

[JerseyGMC]

Well it is a sad day indeed... just spent the last 4 hours disassembling the wiring harness zip ties, bottom of the dash and all to swap out the ignition switch... got it hooked up, had a little problem with the key cylinder being out of place but after figuring that out, got the cylinder in fine. Hooked up the battery go to start and same ****... Now I am wondering if I have to reprogram the whole thing for the security system but I don't think that is the case. When I get in close the door and turn the key the Security light goes out... still only a red battery idiot light and nothing more... I have yet to check the fuses again but I am not hopeful at this point...

[JerseyGMC]

OK tore back into it today with the help of a mechanic friend. We have found that there is no power getting to the ECM. There is no power at the ECM2 fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Took battery and battery tray out to find the fusible link and the terminals. There was some corrosion which I cleaned. Tested across the posts all is in order. I did however find a 30 Amp fuse that looked good but actually was blown. I swapped it into the ABS fuse location and it still did not work. I took the ABS fuse and put it in here temporarily but that did not solve the problem.

Here are a couple pics of that item. NOTE: the 60 AMP fuse it not the right fuse it was the only fuse I had available to test with.



There is a smaller 10 AMP fuse next to the large one that tested good..


Why would there be no have power to the ECM2 fuse?

[JerseyGMC]

Cause found

So I wanted to update you all on the outcome of my little adventure. It took a former mechanic with more resource then I have to find the cause of no power to ECM fuse 2. There was a short located UNDER the antilock brake system... according to him I am lucky the whole truck did not go up in smoke just sitting there in my back yard... I suppose that also explained the battery drain in the first place. In any case for future reference I hope this might come in handy should someone come across this issue. Thank you everyone who tried to help me with this issue.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by JerseyGMC

Cause found

So I wanted to update you all on the outcome of my little adventure. It took a former mechanic with more resource then I have to find the cause of no power to ECM fuse 2. There was a short located UNDER the antilock brake system... according to him I am lucky the whole truck did not go up in smoke just sitting there in my back yard... I suppose that also explained the battery drain in the first place. In any case for future reference I hope this might come in handy should someone come across this issue. Thank you everyone who tried to help me with this issue.

my guess is this vehicle was body damaged and they body shop did not put the wires back correctly.