New Mystery

[colonelcobb]

I've been busy reading about injector inlet screens and how to clean them. I dread having to remove the intake again because I've got so much RTV adhesive (sensor safe!) holding the two halfs together that I could probably remove the bolts and notice no difference. (clam-shell gasket no longer sealed due to age)

Would it do me any good to cut both fuel lines and put 80-90 psi through the injector rails (reverse flow) to blow-out any possible blockage?

I asked that last question because I had a '89 Plymouth Voyager that had a "smilar" problem. It took me forever, but I discovered that the fuel line had de-laminated internally (engine side of the firewall) and had a loose piece of rubber in the line, blocking the injectors.

OR

Should I just "roll-up-my-shirt-sleeves" and just go to work and dismantle everything?

[colonelcobb]

I've been reading about injector inlet screens and how to clean them. Question: Autozone sells a gallon (paint can size) can of a general purpose solvent, parts de-greaser with a little screened bucket inside. could I use this to drop my injectors into and let sit overnight? (after I've removed the rubber O-ring of course)

Now I'm getting excited ! I've identified and located my cam sensor, but it was getting too dark to see if the plastic was "crumblilng". (I NOW understand what 12Ounce was saying about "crumbling")

I will go to my friend who owns a local car bone-yard and pull one off another Windstar with MUCH fewer miles than mine (He has one)

Tomorrow morning, I'll visit Autozone and try to borrow their electronic gizmo for reading codes. (They know me well at one particular store and have let me borrow expensive tools many times because I ALWAYS return them, and return them throughly cleaned-up as well. In other words, I return items in better shape than when I borrowed them. I have a good reputation there.)

I have to do most of my work from a wheel-chair (due to two auto accidents back-to-back) and have limited time to stand. Just to remove the cowl, remove the air-filter, throttle plate assy, then the intake plenum, is a ALL-DAY project, sunrise to sunset.....Uggggggggg !!!

[12Ounce]

I misunderstood ... I thought you were writing that now if the engine was now started (by using raw fuel in intake), it would continue to run. Now I understand .... as soon as the initial raw fuel is consumed, the engine stops. Yes??

By "flaky", I meant "electrically flaky" .... however, if you see the plastic body failing on any sensor, cam or crank, .... I would certainly think it to be suspect.

NO NO, DO NOT SOAK/IMMERGE INJECTOR BODYS IN CLEANER. I was suggesting a sideways blast, using aerosol brake cleaner, at the inlet (inlet screens) of the injectors ... once the injectors are removed and on a work table. (Let's hold off on this idea for the time being .... don't want to get too many aggressive things going on a one time!

The fuel lines are not failing inside .... do not need any cleaning! Stop this thought process.

[12Ounce]

Get the codes read and let's restart!

[12Ounce]

While you are at AutoZone, see if they have a NOID injector test light kit.

[colonelcobb]

After a few day delay, I finally got a code-reader hooked up to my Windstar. It said, "Pass, no codes found".

Impossible! Before it quit running, it had ALL SORTS OF CODES ! I don't remember them all other than; lean bank 1 and lean bank 2, and a bunch of others.

What's going on? Anyone got any ideas? (it still won't start, but it's getting fuel to the fuel rail)

Thanks in Advance!

[colonelcobb]

In addition to my previous post (the one just above this one), I was told by the folks at Autozone that my PCM is dead.

If I get another pcm from a Windstar of the same year, and a KEY, will it install without much trouble?

[colonelcobb]

No one has answered my previous two comments yet, so I'll continue with my "thinking-out-loud". On second thoughts, it CAN't be the pcm. As I previously mentioned, if I squirt gasoline directly into the intake, the engine will run. If the pcm wasn't working, that wouldn't happen either.

I changed out the fuel regulator yesterday, and after turning the key on-and-off a few times to build up pressure, the amount and strength of fuel spraying from the fuel rail purge valve, is MUCH stronger.

In addition, it has a new pcm relay. All fuses are OK. Still won't start on it's own without a prime (and won't continue running after the prime is gone)

Anyone?
Fell free to just "jump right in"! Any and all comments are welcomed and wanted !

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by colonelcobb

No one has answered my previous two comments yet, so I'll continue with my "thinking-out-loud". On second thoughts, it CAN't be the pcm. As I previously mentioned, if I squirt gasoline directly into the intake, the engine will run. If the pcm wasn't working, that wouldn't happen either.

I changed out the fuel regulator yesterday, and after turning the key on-and-off a few times to build up pressure, the amount and strength of fuel spraying from the fuel rail purge valve, is MUCH stronger.

In addition, it has a new pcm relay. All fuses are OK. Still won't start on it's own without a prime (and won't continue running after the prime is gone)

Anyone?
Fell free to just "jump right in"! Any and all comments are welcomed and wanted !

In all of your threads nothing has been mentioned that you have tested the fuel pressure with a gauge. You stated the fuel pump was changed but with a unit out of another vehicle. (used pump) Did the donor engine run with the pump that you removed and installed in your vehicle??? Again autozone should have a fuel pressure tester in their loan a tool program. Did antozone have a Noid injecter test light kit?

[colonelcobb]

Thank you for your reply. Yesterday, I got a Autozone fuel pressure test kit and discovered that the particular fitting I need for the Windstar (and other Fords) was missing.

I will go to Advanced Auto today and get their pressure test kit. Since I need to remove a lot of "stuff" to get to the fuel rail wiring harness connector to use the noid kit, I'll have to do that over the next two days. I have a LOT of silicone sealant (ATV and sensor safe) all over the intake, it will be very difficult to get everything un-glued without destroying or damaging the plastic intake parts.

I'll post the pressure results.

[12Ounce]

I've been "away" for a few days.

I'm glad you have put the PCM off your radar screen. I agree with the concern about the fuel pressure. Now is a good time to have it tested. I was a bit concerned when I read you had harvested a fuel pump from a used vehicle. Risky! I would only use new replacements. Too bad that the fuel pump is so difficult to replace on the Windstar.

My '99 has some 330K miles on it now. The current fuel pump is the fourth, maybe the fifth, one it has had.