Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[wiswind]

Here is a link to some pictures of my '96.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

The pictures are too big to load here.
In the picture, that shows the whole engine....I have labeled a number of items....including the DPFE.
It has not really changed much over the life of the windstar.
You can blow the picture up real big by clicking on "view full size".

[texastomz]

Originally Posted by harumman

Persistence pays off. After go back and forth with Ford and the dealer on doing the TSB # 03-16-1 repair on my 99 3.8L Windstar, Ford finally agreed yesterday to cover 80% of the cost of the repair. Both Labor and Parts.
I had all the documentation that I had brought the Van in for service several times under Warrenty with the spark knock problem. They actually did TSB # 00-21-8. That TSB includes the first 4 steps of the 03-16-1 TSB. Basically changing the Valve Cover and vacuum line and reprogramming the PCM.
If you have this problem don't give up hope that Ford will finally step to the plate and help pay for the repair for you.

PS
I see on this new TSB that it supersedes TSB numbers 03-4-7 and 00-21-8. I have #00-21-8. Does anyone have access to 03-4-7?

I have the same problem and the dealer I purchased the Windstar from will only cover 50% of the cost to repair because I have not used them for regular maintenance - i.e. oil changes. They made two attempts to fix it under warrenty prior to the issuance of TSB 03-16-1. Did Ford agree to 80% because you got your oil changed by their Service Department?

[pcitizen]

I have posted these in other threads... thought I would touch this one too. This information will be a helful addition to others already posted here.

Please check http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html for more information on the Isolator Bolt TSB and DPFE problems.

[rider54]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this forum! I used the info from pcitizen's link and repaired my p0171,p0174 code problem yesterday (2000 Windstar 3.8L w/61k miles). Parts cost $169 including the large seal that goes between the two halves of the upper intake. (Part #XF2Z-9461-AA) I replaced the valve cover, U-shaped vacuum line to pressure regulator and all other upper intake seals and isolator bolts. I also removed the cowling to help access the rear of the motor. While I was there I replaced the spark plugs since there was room to access the three in the back. Took about 6 hours including an hour for lunch. Much of the time was used to clean parts and ports. Thanks pcitizen! Excellent job!

Originally Posted by pcitizen

I have posted these in other threads... thought I would touch this one too. This information will be a helful addition to others already posted here.

Please check http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html for more information on the Isolator Bolt TSB and DPFE problems.

[pcitizen]

Thanks for the kind comments rider54!... and I was thinking about taking that web site down. Guess not.

PCitizen.

[BikenFish]

Web site for TSB repair is awesome! The only thing missing is the procedure for resetting and then relearning the ecu. I lost the info on relearning, but to reset you remove negative battery cable, turn on headlights (to drain capacitors - yes it's necessary and yes it works), wait 15 minutes, turn off headlights and replace negative battery cable.

I found the reset and relearn info here somewhere thru a link to a Ford Master Mechanic. His advice on how to do it was rock solid and worked on my 99 Windstar.

[pcitizen]

Originally Posted by BikenFish

Web site for TSB repair is awesome! The only thing missing is the procedure for resetting and then relearning the ecu. I lost the info on relearning, but to reset you remove negative battery cable, turn on headlights (to drain capacitors - yes it's necessary and yes it works), wait 15 minutes, turn off headlights and replace negative battery cable.

I found the reset and relearn info here somewhere thru a link to a Ford Master Mechanic. His advice on how to do it was rock solid and worked on my 99 Windstar.

BikenFish.... supply the details and I'd be happy to include them on the site.

PCitizen

[Hennie]

I was curious of the same thing after reading all of these threads so i changded the DPFE first, a week later light was back on with just the 171 and 174 codes, don't worry your money was well spent probably needed both repairs

[fmpk]

Originally Posted by DRW1000

I think you had both problems. They are both very common with the Windstars. It is a coincidence that they failed so close to each other.

I don't see the 171/174 codes being activated by the DPFE. The 171/174 are usually caused by air in the intake that did not pass through the MAF. This is usually caused by an intake leak somewhere.

my 2000 windstar is showing only code po174 (system too lean bank 2) - it does not show code 171 and 174, only 174 -does this imply a different issue , ie. i was told it was likely an O2 sensor
Thanks, Pete

[12Ounce]

Pete,

It is probable that your leakage is in its early phase... and over time both sets of O2 sensors will see the problem, giving you both codes.

The two banks will not have sensors of the exact same sensitivity...nor will the "extra" air caused by a leak be equally distributed to both banks.

If, however, the single code persists over time...just kindly ignor all I've written above.

If you want to go to the effort... just swap the sensors between the two banks and see if the code changes.

[DRW1000]

This brings up an interesting point. I assume that the leak is by the port seals due to the isolator bolts losing their torque(due to rubber degredation). If this is true I would expect an arbitrary port seal to leak before another and this should only cause one bank to read lean initially.

It seems in reality that most always have both the banks or at least they happen extremely close to one another.

Is this because once the bolts start to loosen it happens very quickly on more than one bolt or is it because the leak is actually around the bolts and not the port seals and thus both sides are actually lean?

Not an important question but one I have always been curious of.

[Mapdog]

Originally Posted by pcitizen

I have posted these in other threads... thought I would touch this one too. This information will be a helful addition to others already posted here.

Please check http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html for more information on the Isolator Bolt TSB and DPFE problems.

Thanks a bunch, buddy. I did mine today and everything worked great. I printed your entire site and used it as a guide. A couple of notes:

1. Definetely remove the cowl. It is crazy not to and some kinda easy. It really gives you mad room.

2. I asked the dealership for all the parts for the TSB and they included the large upper plenum seal. Total cost $145 (they gave me 10% military discount)

3. My Haynes manual says inch pounds on the torque for the isolator bolts and the upper plenum bolts. So it's 89 inch pounds.

4. Took me a heck of a long time because I noticed that my IMCR (intake manifold control rod--the butterfly valves down the intake) controller was missing a connector. Ford wouldn't sell it to me without selling the whole controller for $140. I couldn't find one at the junk yard so I had to fabricate something out of a part from a different engine. I used a torch to melt and bend and resize one and it worked like a champ.

[pcitizen]

Thanks Mapdog. I have updated the site based on your input. Oh. BTW: Do you have the Ford part number for the plenum-half gasket (the big one). I'd like to add that to the site as well.

PCitizen

[DRW1000]

okay....I purchased the Isolator bolts, port seals and the upper-to lower gasket (just in case) for my 99 3.8 L to do the TSB.

The port seals (and upper to lower gasket) are not what I expected, nor do they seem to look like any photos of used ones that I have seen. These were a Blue rubber that almost looks like a thick rubber band with texture.

Did I get the correct ones????

[12Ounce]

I don't remember "blue". And I remember rubber o-rings...not exactly circular... but with "ribs", not "texture".
But they may have been up-graded since I bought mine.