AF Car Modeling Frequently Asked Questions [FAQ] - * Look here first! * ver2.0

[Jay!]

How do you apply decals?
Decals vary according to manufacturer, and most will sit on flat panels very easily. For curved or angular panels however, they will benefit greatly from a softening solution such as Microsol.

This will make any decal conform to a surface, but must only be applied after the decal is in the right position, as it will break if moved after application. The decal may wrinkle a little while it is wet, but will dry tightly and neatly.
Cut the decal from the sheet staying close to the design so you remove the clear carrier film also. Dip in warm water which has a drop of dish washing liquid in it, then set the decal on a piece of paper to release. Once it will slide off with no effort, offer it up to the model with a pair of tweezers, and slide the decal into position, with either a thin layer of water or Microsol in the position the decal needs to go.
Then, with a wet cloth, and holding one side of the decal with another cloth, carefully push down and across the decal, removing water and bubbles from underneath the surface. Then hold the other end and repeat.
It goes without saying you can rip the decal using this method so be careful, but when the decal is dry it is the best result you can get. You don't need to rub small decals.

A decal will on an uneven surface will fit better if pressed with a hot cloth, or with heat from a hairdryer. Care must be taken with both methods though, to avoid drying out or moving the decal.

A few nips with a sharp scalpel will also help a decal to conform to an awkward shape.

[Jay!]

How can I tint model car windows?
It can be done using car window tint film.

When putting it on you need to clean the window so there are no marks etc.
Lightly spray the window with soapy water then apply the tint on to the window.
Use a really soft cloth or stiff cardboard to rub over the window tint to smooth it down. This helps to get rid of any tiny air bubbles that occur.
Allow to dry.

DONT do it dry......you will never get the bubbles out.

DON’T use Tamiya X19 Smoke. It does not give acceptable results!

[Jay!]

How do I paint the black trim around the outside of the windows?
Warren wrote a great tutorial with pictures:
HOW TO....Paint window frames and rubbers

[Jay!]

How do I paint the black on the inside of the windows?
The best result will be achieved by spraying semi-gloss black paint over Tamiya masking tape or the masking set included with many models. Apply the mask to the clean clear plastic, rubbing the edges will with the back of a fingernail or something similar. Then apply a very light dust of spray over the area, and leave to touch dry which is about 5 minutes. This seals the tape edges against paint ingress. Then apply another slightly heavier coat, allow to dry, and then another, until the surface opacity has gone. Remove the masking tape within 30 minutes to prevent the paint lifting with the tape.

[Jay!]

What is the purpose of lacquer or clear coat?
Vital for metallics and optional for solid colours, lacquer, or clear coat will add a clear film to the paint which can then be mirror polished. A superb way to seal race car decals and protect them, though it often attacks the decal and so must be used carefully.

It gives a hard shine similar to enamel and so may be undesirable for some finishes, but is a good way of polishing a model for the inexperienced, as the lacquer can be cut back to a shine and still give warning before you polish too much off! i.e. As soon as you see colour on the cloth, STOP!!!

It should be left for at least a week to ‘gas off’ before polishing otherwise your new shiny surface will dull again as the lacquer continues to shrink!

[Jay!]

What is the difference between the various paint types?
Each paint type has a plus and a down side. Each type also has its place, though the following is through my experience and you may feel differently!

ENAMEL PAINT

Is a very reactive paint, and will not allow automotive paint to be applied over it. It is happy over every other paint type however.

The gloss colours have a very deep, harsh shine which is a bit too plastic-y looking for car bodies.

It is perfect for fine detail however as the oil base is very easy to work with and it will happily sit where you place it. Have a small amount of enamel thinners near by in a small pot, and dip the tip of the brush in the thinners, then the paint pot, dab on paper and then paint on the detail.

Enamel is also good for large surfaces which require brush painting, as it is slow to dry. Allow 6 hours before adding another coat if required. Very difficult to remove as chemicals that remove the paint also attack the plastic. A strong degreaser like Castrol Super Clean is the only way known to safely remove it at this time.

USES: Fine detail painting. Large surfaces which require brush painting.

DO NOT USE: On car bodies. The shine is too harsh and unrealistic and it doesn’t polish well. Do not use on any surface which requires another paint type on top.

ACRYLIC PAINT

Because it is water based it is very friendly to use, but the water tends to ‘hold’ the paint off the part you are painting, making detail painting difficult. Again, thinned with a little soapy water, the results can be improved but expect to require a few coats to achieve complete coverage.

This type of paint is easy to remove, just spray the part with oven cleaner, leave to work and then rinse under a tap. The paint dries quickly, which makes painting large surfaces undesirable.

Great for matt colours, as it is easy to hide the brush strokes and dries to a very smooth, velvety finish. The gloss colours dry to a soft shine. Then just four days is required before polishing to a shine.

USES: Car interiors and light lenses.

DO NOT USE: On large surfaces. The paint dries very quickly and each new brush stroke tends to pull at the drying surface.

AUTOMOTIVE PAINT

Also very reactive, and requires a plastic primer for modeling. Enormous colour range and it’s possible to use the exact colour of the car being modeled. Some metallic can be out of scale but true mica paints can be used, where the round metal particles reflect the light and give different shades.

Drying time is fast, touch dry in 10 minutes, but required hardening or ‘gassing out’ for a week before polishing.

Not suitable for detail painting, but possible to spray each part a single colour, and then add other colours with enamel or acrylic paints, or mask and spray other shades over the others.

USES: Perfect for car bodies, or model parts sprayed in a single colour.

DO NOT USE: With a brush as it leaves brush marks. Not suitable for detail painting.

Also, a marvellous write up on paint by daggerlee:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...threadid=98231

[Jay!]

How do I polish the body?
When you spray a model car body, the paint is usually a bit rough, what is called orange peel, especially if automotive paint is used.

To achieve a scale shine, the paint is polished to a glass like finish, using cutting compound and car polish.

There are many grades of compound, and experience will teach you which is best. Aim for something around 5-6 for a start.

If you are new to this try it on a lacquered paint job as you can watch the cloth you are using. As soon as you see the body colour on the cloth you know you have rubbed through the lacquer and that it is time to stop. Doing so on a solid colour will reveal the primer underneath and you will have to add more paint, which is very frustrating!!!

Once the paint is smooth, you can polish out the swirl marks using a car wax, which is also a mild abrasive, or milky swirl remover around compound 9. Finish the model using a high gloss polish such as Tamiya Polish or Autoglym Gold High Gloss Shine when completed.

As an example of what you should be looking at during the polishing process:

Originally posted by hirofkd
Here, the hood is partially sanded with 2000 grit sand paper.


Now, when the hood is thoroughly sanded, it should look like this.


After compound is used, you get a result like this.

[Jay!]

What do I do the really small lettering with?
Gundam Markers! These are really fine marker pens used for detailing robots. Try an Animation enthusiasts shop or art shop for various fine markers.

You can paint marks on tyres like most race teams use using a 00 brush and slightly thinned white, I prefer matt enamel for this. Teams will usually indicate which side the tyre is for, front or rear and which driver or car it belongs too, as well as information such as cut slick or intermediate use.

[Jay!]

What are photoetched parts?
"Photo-etch" refers to a set of detail parts for a plastic model. They usually appear as a very thin sheet of brass, tin or aluminum with the parts all attached to a "tree," much like plastic parts. The level of detail available in these sets is amazing. Some kit manufacturers include photo etched parts in their kits, but the majority is available from smaller aftermarket companies as add-on parts.

More specifically, "photo-etch" refers to the method by which they are made. The sets are not cast in a mold like plastic, and they are not stamped out in a die cutter. The manufacturer draws a black and white template for the set and overlays the template on a blank, whole sheet of metal. The metal sheet with the template is set into a light-sensitive chemical bath, and exposed to a light source through the template. All of the white areas of the template allow light to pass through to the metal surface and "activates" the chemical bath so that it eats away the metal in those areas. By the time the metal is removed from the bath, the negative areas have been etched away by their exposure to the light.

[Jay!]

How do I attach photo etched parts?
Cut the metal parts off the sprues using very sharp scissors, or preferably tin snips. Any remaining sprue that needs removing can be done with needle files.

The best way to glue something like a badge or script is to use ‘photo mount’, a spray adhesive used to mount photographs. It is a dry adhesive that can be sprayed on the back of the photo etch and then the part placed onto the model. It won’t be the strongest grip, so it could be sealed using Krystal Klear as if mounting headlight lenses. Brush some over the script, then wipe away the excess with a wet cloth.

Most photo etch is glued using super glue, and the best results will be achieved if the parts are primered.

[Jay!]

How do I remove the rib running through the middle of tyres?
Use a very coarse wet paper, around 180 grit, and work away at the line using plenty of water.

Then finish using a finer paper, before sealing with Tamiya Polish or other clear polish.

[Jay!]

How do I apply the sidewall decals?
The sidewall of the tyre must be very clean, and very dry. I usually add them when the wheel is complete so as not to damage the delicate decals.

The decals are reversed and it is hard to see where you are placing them, so they must be cut to shape, as close to the writing as possible.

Remove the tissue protection film and place the decal dry onto the dry tyre. Then apply lots of water onto the film using a small brush, and leave for a few minutes. Repeat the process once more and then press on the whole decal with a finger in a sure, positive action. As you remove your finger the paper usually moves with it, leaving the decal nicely stuck on the tyre. With a wet brush make sure all the decal film is sitting on the tyre and not raised by the rim. Leave to dry before touching.

I heard you can get good results by airbrushing Tamiya matt lacquer over the tyre sidewall, but I have yet to try this.

[Jay!]

How do I strip paint off a plastic model? What is "CSC"?
CSC is shorthand for Castrol Super Clean, a cleaner/degreaser available in North America.

If you want to go ahead and strip all the paint from the car body, here's what you do:

Go to your local auto supply store and buy a bottle of Castrol Super Clean, a pair of rubber gloves and a cheap brush with medium bristles. You also need a plastic Tupperware-like box that's bigger than the car body.

1. Wear gloves.
2. Pour all the CSC into the plastic box.
3. Put the car body in the plastic box, in the CSC. Don't worry if the car isn't completely covered, you can let it sit, then flip it over to get the other side later.
4. Let it soak in there for at least four hours.
5. Use your gloved finger to rub some of the treated paint. If it smears off, it's almost ready. When it wipes off, it is ready.
6. Use the brush to scrub all the paint off.
7. Wash the body with water.

You can re-use the CSC if you filter it back into the bottle. And it's biodegradable, so if you spill, just wash with water.

If you don't have access to CSC where you live, alternatives are nail polish remover (TEST on scrap plastic first! Some nail polish remover will melt styrene!!), foaming oven cleaner (Mr. Muscle is recommended) or brake fluid (note: NOT brake cleaner!).

While CSC does very well at stripping Acrylics and Enamels, it seems to have trouble stripping some Lacquers. For Lacquers, start with brake fluid.

Also, see if you have access to a product called "Modelstrip."

Here is a link to a great comparison of some common paint strippers: BONEDIGGER'S Styrene Archaeology E-ZINE

[Jay!]

How do I hold a model car body for painting?
Your best bet is to make a rig out of a wire coat hanger. See pictures here: Painting Jigs

[Jay!]

How do you keep dust off the fresh paint? What can I do if it got on the car anyway?
Cardboard box
Tupperware/plastic box
Microwave
Food Dehydrator

If there's dust in that paint, sorry, but you'll have to sand it out. Be careful and go slowly, and you may be able to avoid a complete re-spray.