Shocks and struts replacement on 2003 Windstar LX

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

The sub frame is held in place by 4 bolts. I recommend you first remove one of the rear bolts totally just to see how long it is and all. Yes, lower the rear of the sub frame a bit to get better access to the anti-sway bar bushings. Work safely!!

I don't think I'm comfortable doing this in my garage. I am not certain what needs to be braced where and where the weight will come down once the subframe is dismounted. I think I will work to get as much done as I can myself and let a shop deal with that part.

Just for my own knowledge, if I loosened all 4 of those bolts... what am I loosening? IE: AM I loosening the actual steel chassis that holds up the tranny, engine etc..? or what all is the subframe attached to/doing?

I've always assumed the subframe is what I just asked it is after "IE:" above, but never been 100% sure.

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by fy171

2 of: Monroe 171920 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$109.28

2 of: Monroe 37110 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$35.00


i bought these for my 2002 windstar

Does he have a web site? or just msg him on here?

Those are good prices. Thanks.

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by searcherrr

Does he have a web site? or just msg him on here?

Those are good prices. Thanks.

Actually... i just saw on RockAuto they have almost the same price and with the other stuff I need to get, I could get it all there in one lump.

[searcherrr]

I assume stabilizer bar and sway bar are synonymous right?

How do I know which size bushing I need for this? RockAuto's site has them for the 21.5mm up to 24mm bars?

Also, the ones listed "problem solver" with the "split" design? Does that split design make'm wear faster? or basically no difference in wear?

[searcherrr]

Looks like everything (without tires - getting those done today though) is gonna cost $588 before tax/shipping.

So at the end of this, I will have spent $1335 (if I do all the suspension/linkage work myself) to get this ole gal into shape.

The brakes (and a look at a faulty door lock) cost me $505. Didn't want to have brake fluid all over the place and on me. 2 tires today will cost $230.

And still gotta fix the front door locks. Now the driver door lock don't work... so both front door locks are no good for "automatic" locking/unlocking.

[fy171]

http://www.justsuspension.com/

[fy171]

http://www.bbb.org/charlotte/busines...nver-nc-123595 i whould read this first,i had no problem with my shocks and struts

[searcherrr]

OK. I've got most of the parts. I think I'm just missing rear shocks and outer tie rod ends. The shipments came from 3 different places from Rockauto. Sorry I didn't use your justsuspension buddy... its was too convenient to pass up.

I've never done inner tie rod ends before. What is there to it? Hard to do?

I'm about to attempt this today. I even went out and bought a portable a/c for the garage so I don't kill myself in this heat. lol - It was a good excuse to buy one.

[scubacat]

Jealous of your portable A/C. It's crazy hot here (and my never-had-a-problem-in-11-years camry threw a P0430.. yay)

For your door locks, it really sounds like a bad switch more than the actuators. It's hard to believe they ALL have the problem at once. What about the lock/unlock switch on the passenger side vs. drivers side vs. keyless entry... do they all exhibit the same symptoms?

[searcherrr]

I'm starting to wonder if there are electrical gremlins afoot. I pushed the door unlock button on the remote today and the driver door opened right up. It had sat for a while unused, but that makes no sense as to why it would just start working.

Jack lift point - I want to lift both front wheels off the ground at the same time. Where should I be putting the jack? I've been looking all day for a good reference online and I can't find one and my repair cd is missing since we've moved a lot the past few months. Where is the safest lift point to where when I lift, the wheels will come up evenly and not one side sagging down more than the other?

LOL - I have used the portable a/c today for the first time and all day - even now at night it has not been able to get the garage below 85 degrees. I sealed the garage door as best I could with fence boards and trash bags enough to where I would've thought it would've at least gotten down to the 70's, but it hasn't once. The air its blowing is cool and if you stand in front of it, its nice, but its not cooling the room even with a fan blowing around too. I think the problem is so much air leakage around the big garage door. Even though I've sealed it up pretty well temporarily, it just can't catch up unless the seal is nearly 100%. I didn't think 8000 btu's in a standard 2 car garage would struggle this much honestly.

[scubacat]

85 degrees would be a dream here, believe me.

I jack up from the middle of the subframe. I don't know if it's a good idea or not but that's what I do. I haven't found a good way to jack up the rear in the middle, though.

[12Ounce]

I would not jack on the middle of the sub-frame and especially not on the rear axle.

You mentioned earlier the brake fluid being very toxic ... I would never drink brake fluid, but I never avoided skin contact ... as long as a soap and water wash was to follow soon. But I would not want to submerge any part on me in it either ... just never been that concerned about a little casual contact. I may be living dangerously/carelessly and did not know it.

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I would not jack on the middle of the sub-frame and especially not on the rear axle.

Why not? You think it will bend? I looked this up elsewhere and saw a lot of people talking about jacking it up there so they could get both front wheels up and jacks under the side pinch weld rails behind the front tires.

I'm in the garage now and now ya got me scared to lift it by that front sub-frame.

I wouldn't do it in the back. In the back I'll do one by one, but in the front the sway bar is gonna be a problem if both wheels aren't up.

Should I jack both sides up at the same time with someone's help?

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I would not jack on the middle of the sub-frame and especially not on the rear axle.

Wow, I've jacked up via the front subframe at least 20 times! I don't really see why it would be a problem. It doesn't show even the slightest sign of trouble. Where do you lift it? One wheel at a time? Even that way, it's hard to lift and then have enough room to place the jack stands, unless there's a spot I'm missing..

[12Ounce]

I'm not saying I would not jack up both sides ... just not by jacking in the middle. I'm apprehensive of bending, and slipping on the jack. Maybe I'm just a bit old-maid.

But me and my car are both straight... nothing broken and looking good!