2000 Windstar not accelerating

[serge_saati]

You're welcome.

Yes, the exhaust repair kit would repair the leak in the catalytic converter. Just wait 2 hours after the repair before starting the engine again.

[olopezm]

Just a quick question, could a bad bearing on the idler or tensor pulleys cause a rattling noise only when the van is on every gear but P or N?. Thanks.

[serge_saati]

No, it can't be a bad pulley or tensioner. Cause it would make a squeezing noise instead of rattle noise and it would happen whenever the load of engine since the torque of the pulleys doesn't increase with the torque of engine output.

It sounds to be a bad upper intake manifold (plenum). It's a common failure on the 3.8L engine. It's an inner baffle sound. It makes a sound similar to diesel engine, right? It should increase with the load/acceleration.

[olopezm]

Hmm... Yes it has a diesel like sound and I was kinda aware about it was related to the intake only I didn't know which part, but there is another sound which happens only when the van is in R,D,1 or 2; maybe i'm using the wrong word to describe the sound since english is not my main language. I will record and upload it tomorrow so you can listen to it.

Do I have to replace the plenum to get rid of the diesel sound or is it enough to use some high temp sealant to fix in place the inner baffle in the manifold?.

Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.

[serge_saati]

No, replace the whole plenum (2 parts). Don't apply sealant. Cause if you do so, it will stick, and you'll not be able to remove it for future repair (i.e.: 171/174 TSB, lower manifold gasket...).

The other sound is like a metallic/high pitched noise?

[olopezm]

Thanks again, I will leave the plenum repair for later, although it's a bit noisier than normal it doesn't bothers me at the moment but since I've replaced many things in less than a month it will seriously bother my pocket if you know what I mean. About the other sound it seems to be coming out from the steering pump, the sound can be heard for a brief moment when you put any gear other than P or N, stop at a red light or turn the steering wheel, I checked the oil and seems to be at the proper level, I will check back tomorrow when the engine is cold; in the meantime I have uploaded a video, you can listen to the sound in it:

Windstar weird sound

Thanks in advance for your help.

[serge_saati]

Ok, the low pitched rattle noise that we ear when you engage gear doesn't seem to be the Power Steering pump, cause it's not a metallic noise. Even if it's on this location. I think it's the timing chain, but I'm not sure. Are you sure it comes from the pump? Maybe you need a car stethoscope or a small tube to see precisely where the sound comes from. Low pitched sound are more difficult to find.

The other way to know is to remove the drive belt and run the engine. You will immediately know if it's the P/S pump or the chain. Then you can play with the pumps. But you should have the tool to put the belt back in place. I think you have.

I noticed also another small metallic sound in side of the pump at 0:36-0:38 of the video. So maybe you have 2 problems, not sure again. Your microphone is omni-directional?

[olopezm]

The noise gets louder the closer I get to the P/S pump I will check with a small hose to make sure only I have to wait until the engine gets warm because the sound doesn't seems to appear with the engine cold, I was thinking on removing the belt too I will do it later today because right now I have to make a small trip. The other sound I don't know if maybe it's the cooling fan since I remember it was engaged while I was recording the video.

If the problem is the timing belt to sound should be more constant isn't it?.

The microphone is actually my cellphone, I shot the video with it.

Thanks for your help, I will post back ASAP...

[serge_saati]

I thought again about the noise, I'm pretty sure it's the P/S pump's bearing. Not the rotor's vanes of the pump. So you don't need to replace the pump, just rebuild it (replace the worn bearing).

[olopezm]

Thanks again man, I didn't drive the van today because you mentioned the timing belt as a possible cause and I didn't want to take the risk to be left on the side of the road waiting for help, now that you are sure about the bearing I can tell you that you took a huge weight off my back, I will take the pump apart form the van, is rebuilding it a DIY job, is it hard or expensive?. I know it has some seals in it, will I need to buy these seals brand new or can I reuse the old ones.

I would like to know what pointed you to the bearing?; the fact of the noise being present only at warm temp? or what else?.

Thanks again man I really appreciate your help.

[serge_saati]

I know it's the bearings because I had a memory flashback, I remember a friend who had this problem a long time ago with a BMW and it was very similar noise. And you tell me it comes louder near this part.

Yes you need 4 new seals, cause the old ones can break when you remove them. If you never had rebuild a P/S pump, I recommend you to give it to someone who is specialized in remanufactured part (i.e.: NAPA, CarQuest...). They will charge you around 50$ + the bearing. Don't know how much is in pesos...
I never rebuild a P/S pump, but I know it's complex.

[wiswind]

Serge_saati mentions a test that is very good.......remove the serpentine belt and see if the problem is still there.
NOTE....don't run the motor for more than a minute.....as you will have NOT coolant circulation.

Now.....if the noise is not there.....then you know that it is something on the serpentine belt line.......Alternator, water pump, power steering, tensioner pulley bearing......idler pulley bearing.
On my '96, I changed the power steering pump.......and the noise turned out to be the idler pulley bearing.
The idler pulley is right in between the alternator, power steering pump and the water pump.
I was SURE that it was the power steering pump......only made the noise above a certain RPM......not at idle......and I could not detect it by turning things by hand.
Years later.....I got a very similar noise......and it was the bearing on the tensioner pulley......I could tell by turning the pulley by hand......felt normal at first....but when I wiggled it and tried again.....I could clearly feel the problem.

[olopezm]

Thanks to both of you guys I checked the idler and tensioner pulleys and replaced both because they felt a bit hard to rotate and the idler had a metallic noise so I guess the bearing was going bad and the tensioner pulley felt like it was clicking or something similar and it also had a metallic sound and at less than $20 dlls for both I decided to replace them, this had an immediate effect on the engine sound and I can even say that the van feels better.

Unfortunately the low pitched rattle noise is still present not as loud as before but still present, the next step will be to take a look at the steering pump, I did took the serpentine belt off and the noise goes away so definitely the problem comes from an accessory; I have to see how much it costs to rebuild the steering pump and compare the price with a remanufactured pump, if it's about the same I'll go with the reman pump; just one question: is it hard to remove the pump? is it enough to remove the belt and take the screws that hold the pump? . Thanks again for your help!

P.S. I forgot to ask, besides the van making the rattling sound, is there any danger to keep driving the van? something like the pulley coming out or something similar?. Thanks.

[wiswind]

Good move on replacing the pulleys......remember.....if you feel some roughness or grinding/clicking when spinning them by hand.........it will be worse when the tension of the belt is pushing against it.

Power steering pump.......on my '96....I have pictures that show somewhat what I did.....
I removed the alternator........then......I removed the whole bracket that holds the power steering pump, idler pulley and alternator (if it were still there).......as 1 unit.
Use extra care with the metal line that connects to the pump....
You don't want to cross thread that.....and if you bend the metal line.....it will be tough to line up straight to start the nut.

Removing the alternator removes a lot of weight....and makes manovering the bracket and pump much easier.

[olopezm]

Thanks for your help wiswind, I will do so within a few days right now I have to go and visit my family and don't want to spend the days fixing the van instead of being with my family. Do you think there will be any problem if I keep driving the van with that bad bearing? Is there any possibility for the pump to break down?. Thanks again for your help.