Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[Black_Blade]

Finally got around to affording to do this repair to my 2002, in the last few months it began to run really rough at stop lights and also when the weather was damp (which unfortunately was most of the summer). So, I was thinking that the spark plug wires to be the culprit, but since I have had this SEL with the 171 & 174 codes, I thought to deal with this issue first and thus eliminate that as the possible cause of the the rough engine.

Well, got the SEL issue taken care of...and a thousand thank you's to pccitizen for his wonderful site dealing with this repair! It took me a bit over 5 hours to do it, in my parking slot. Lost some time in trips back and forth to basement for the odd tool--and rummaging thru stuff to find them (moved in to townhouse in June, but still have plenty of my stuff in cardboard boxes in basement) Also did an overdue oil change at same time...lol.

Now I see the rough engine is still present, so will have to look into new plugs and wires. The engine runs fine in dry weather, not that there is many days like that of course....

[Nox]

This Thread must be the most viewed in the web....It even has links from other forums sites. Great information and thank you pcitizen!. I will be taking on this project very soon after I get through all of the posts. some times, the followup posts can be very valuable. Wish me luck!

[veerg]

Good luck Nox. I did this in Nov 2007. No codes since then. My experience was limited to changing oil, brake pads, a steering pump and a water pump on my chev Lumina. I read all the posts and took on this challenge with the pcitizen procedure at hand. Just take your time. I had two problems. I gave up on removing the cowl. The other was the throttle cable. The way it is hooked. When you take it off, just make sure you see how it is hooked first. When hooking it back, it can take 10 secs if you know it or 15 mins if you have to fiddle around..........good luck again. By the way. I used the $79 kit bought on line. So far it is good.

[Nox]

I have a serious question for all who have partaken in this Holy Thread. I am planning to do this job( upper intake isolator bolts- Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1), BUT, I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO KNOW, should I just plan to do the lower manifold gasket change at the same time that I do this upper intake job? It seems like just a little further down the rabbit hole gets me down to the intake gasket....bottom line, I only want to do this once. I know there is a serious case of thread exhaustion here, but for those of you who have done this job, way, way ahead of me, I would like to know you opinion. By the way, I have 160K on my 2000 SEL, so just sayin.....and thinkin, if Im going to do some surgery, I may want to go just a little deeper.

Thanks,
Nox

[Top_Notch]

Originally Posted by Nox

I have a serious question for all who have partaken in this Holy Thread. I am planning to do this job( upper intake isolator bolts- Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1), BUT, I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO KNOW, should I just plan to do the lower manifold gasket change at the same time that I do this upper intake job? It seems like just a little further down the rabbit hole gets me down to the intake gasket....bottom line, I only want to do this once. I know there is a serious case of thread exhaustion here, but for those of you who have done this job, way, way ahead of me, I would like to know you opinion. By the way, I have 160K on my 2000 SEL, so just sayin.....and thinkin, if Im going to do some surgery, I may want to go just a little deeper.

Thanks,
Nox

Nox from CFOT?

Either way, the lower intake is aluminum and isn't the issue. (Once you pull the upper you'll understand what's going on) I'd plan on pulling the upper only and replacing the coolant bypass on the lower intake. If the plugs are original...now is the time as well.

[mikemikemike]

Hi, did the repair 3/29/2007: 2 3/4 years ago and still working fine with no lights. Check out my original email below! Just changing the 8 bolts and it worked fine. Mike in NH

Originally Posted by mikemikemike

I used the most excellent web site (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html) to fix my 2001 Windstar. I got the parts from the Ford Dealer. Started to take apart the engine, got to the throttle cable part and then got scared - no way I was gonna mess with those. I couldn't get to the gaskets under everything.

So, I ONLY replaced the 8 bolts with their green sleeves and then put everything back together. Didn't change any of the gaskets - didn't use a torque wrench, either. Been 2000 miles and no communistic check engine light has come on yet !

I found taking the plenum thing off wasn't that hard. Just slightly pushed up on the cowling with a long broom stick (used front of radiator as a fulcrum) with my left leg while I lifted the plenum up and rotated it clockwise.

mikpel@hotmail.com NH

[1320mustangracer]

I am fighting the P0171 and p0174 light too. I used to do ford warranty a few years back and we had alot of these claims come across my desk. Something alot of you are not mentioning is when replacing the DPFE sensor you need to replace the hoses it hooks up to also. And there is another TSB associated with these codes too TSB 04-17-04 which has you chasing vac leaks by crimping off hoses. A very long process. Once I figure mine out I will let you all know. If any of you have done the TSB 03-16-01 you need to make sure you decarbonize ports, check and clean EGR valve, PCV valve and hoses which can cause carbon problems with MAF, TPS. SO as long as your there clean everything up with a good electronics cleaner. Also good time to check and replace air and fuel filters if necessary. These codes are for System too Lean. which if you think you dont have a vacuum leak then check fuel psi, fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors . I say this because of a few of you stating you had misfires, rough idle.

[1320mustangracer]

Its an after warranty adjustment called a " PO5" in which a customer pays 20% of the bill and dealership pays the other 80%. There are rules set by FORD though. Has to be orig owner and vehicle has to have less than 75,000 on vehicle. Another program is " PO7" in which customer pays 495.00 of the bill. With this it has to be a powertrain issue and orig owner again, but mileage is up to 100,000 miles. With this PO7 program you get a 3/36 warranty on powertrain component replaced. Hope this helps

[mateo71859]

i have a 174 but diagnotics says trimbank 2 is running lean what does this mean and how do i fix this

[pcitizen]

Mateo71859,

It appears your vehicle has succombed to the same problem as many others. The intake manifold is leaking due to cruddy bolt seals. Apparently the OEM seals fail when exposed to oil/gasoline. Ford makes a kit for Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1. You can read many posts about it on this forum. If you chose check out this URL for a step by step DIY to fix this problem once you have parts in hand: http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html.

PCitizen

[mateo71859]

for this isolator problem there was some mention of an isolator kit that come with everything you need for about 99 dollars where can i find these kits and or ist there a specific name listed for these kits so i know what to ask for

[mateo71859]

i also would like to know what does tsb stand for and how do i find it

[pcitizen]

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin.

The repair kit will have all the parts you need to make the immediate repair. The web site I provided earlier discuss other parts you may wish to consider.

Go to any Ford Dealer with a parts department and ask them for kit that repairs parts discussed in TSB 03-16-1. If that doesn't work ask them about the isolator bolt kit for Windstars. This is a common problem so they should know what you're talking about.

[mateo71859]

engine running rough now and i was told it might be the o2 sensor before the converter so i disconnected it and there were no difference in the running of the engine.

[mateo71859]

what does this mean