Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[Freakzilla69]

Originally Posted by derffred

to be sure get the codes erased and drive the van about 3 or 4 trips, if it comes back on you still have a problem then, my guess would be a vacumm leak if you still have a problem

When you make those 3 or 4 trips I hope your tag isn't expired for not passing emissions. The police seem to have no sympathy for DIY mechanics.

They say you can do the repairs yourself but you can't legally test drive it to see if the SEL comes back on.

BS

[Freakzilla69]

I've replaced the entire emissions system and rebuilt the top of the engine from the block up.

It runs like a champ but I'm still getting 171 and 174. Oh well, at least I spent enough money on parts for the emissions waiver, $800. The IMRCs went a long way towards that total.

The only thing I know of that is wrong with it is no air comes out of the dasboard vents. Could that have anything to do with it?

Do I need to take it to the dealer to have it reprogrammed?

[kingfishracin]

I am getting ready to tackle this thanks to all the great info on this site. I just got the parts estimate from my Ford dealer, $217.38. This price includes the coolant crossover tube. Do I need to get the parts from Ford or would after market be o.k. ?

[bulrid8]

Originally Posted by kingfishracin

I am getting ready to tackle this thanks to all the great info on this site. I just got the parts estimate from my Ford dealer, $217.38. This price includes the coolant crossover tube. Do I need to get the parts from Ford or would after market be o.k. ?

I got my kit off ebay. Around $100 total. All top quality parts and includes new Valve cover.

I didn't replace the cross over tube, but you can buy that from the dealer for around $40.

Little update: Still running great and have not had a CEL, since the fix.

[GaryYarber]

I have a 1996 Windstar 3.8 engine. The check engine light is on and the OBD2 meter shows trouble codes P0171 and P0174. A local garage did a diagnostics run down and told me the upper intake manifold gaskets ( between plenum and intake manifold) needed to be replaced. Which I did but I still have the trouble codes. Any ideas on what could be causing these codes. Also, does anyone know if the TSB#03-16-1 applies to the 1996 3.8 engine?

[Mookie6250]

I have a 2001 ford windstar. Student of uti. Threw up DTC's of p0156 p0171 p0174. Ford Kept telling me that the p0156 (O2 Bank 2) could be making the lean codes pop up but that doesnt make sence considering that there are two lean banks and only one sensor code, which is a circuit fault. Apon looking into this a little more i see people talking about TSB's for the 171 and 174. Is this most common problem setting off codes? What years does this TSB cover? Anyone have a link for the TSB? Help is very much appreciated!

[stryder1]

If you look a this article at the bottom of it are links to the actual TSB's. I was getting these codes about a year ago with a 2000 Windstar and since I followed the article and replaced the parts, I have not gotten the code since (knock wood).

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

[bdahl385]

Originally Posted by Mookie6250

I have a 2001 ford windstar. Student of uti. Threw up DTC's of p0156 p0171 p0174. Ford Kept telling me that the p0156 (O2 Bank 2) could be making the lean codes pop up but that doesnt make sence considering that there are two lean banks and only one sensor code, which is a circuit fault. Apon looking into this a little more i see people talking about TSB's for the 171 and 174. Is this most common problem setting off codes? What years does this TSB cover? Anyone have a link for the TSB? Help is very much appreciated!

I would be very leery of any Ford service shop that doesn't automatically know the 0171 / 0174 DTC history on this vehicle. I would care to bet that every 1999-2003 vehicle will eventually need the new isolator bolts to fix this DTC, it should have been a recall but it wasn't because it is not safety related.

[Top_Notch]

8-1-2009

I just completed this procedure on my 2000 Windstar with 95k miles. I've had the CEL on for the last 2 years and the car ran fine except for the transition between closed and open loop when it was cold. It would buck, stutter, and hesitate, then run fine the rest of the trip. The last straw was that the coolant pipe from the lower manifold sprung a pinhole leak and the leaky intake caused the motor to start ingesting coolant. So, since I had to pull the intake anway, mine as well fix everything at once. I ended up doing the plugs, wires, IMRC clips, rocker cover, coolant tube, EGR port cleaning, intake port bolts, and gaskets.

The hardest part of this job was rounding up the parts. Seriously! I ended up making multiple parts runs to save some money. Sure, one could get everything at the Ford dealer, but then again one could just drop the van off and pay a huge bill to have everything fixed.

I first started by trying to find the isolator bolt kit at Murrays/Kragen as suggest by another in this thread, but they had no idea what I was talking about. I suppose I could have purchased other parts there as well, but I was too miffed.

I ended up buying the isolator kit from Rock Auto ( http://www.1aauto.com/1A/-/GMC/-/1AEVC00013/ ). Note that Summit Racing also carries the kit Rock Auto sells at a lower price. ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RN...6383&N=700+115 ) I also made a trip to the Ford Dealer to pick up IMRC clips (got bent over on those at $6.50 each) and the coolant bypass hose. I then decided I should do plugs and wires while I was at it, so I stopped at Autozone to pick up the double platinum Autolites (as my research suggested) and a set of plug wires the next day. One final trip was made to Walmart for engine degreaser, towels, coolant, dielectric grease, anti-seize for the plugs, and carb cleaner. All in all, I was in for about a little over $200 worth of parts.

The actual job was surprisingly easy although it took me a long time. I was only able to work on the van after work for an hour or two at a time due to my schedule. Nontheless, I had everything done in less than two weeks. I did remove the cowl, which makes access a breeze, including to the rear plugs. I ended up having to scrape the intake to remove hard sludge (The ports had hardened oil on them), oil (everywhere), antifreeze, and dirt from the manifold. This took me at least 2 hours alone. (I am meticulous and had everything spotlessly clean before continuing)

One note on the Rock Auto parts kit is that the parts are made in China but everything worked fine. The only issue I had was the studs to hold the wire keepers were too large to fit the clip. I ended up routing the plug wires the best I could so that they would be secure. Even though I have a decent collection of tools, the job itself is surprisingly easy and only required the most basic of hand tools. I did use an engine scanner for initial diagnosis and to verify the engine codes, but you can get that done for free at Autozone. I will note that since I worked on the van over a 2 week period, I was always spraying bolts with penetrant before I took them out the following day.

My advice to anyone reading is that this job can be done by any semi-competent back yard mechanic. I would advise you to replace the coolant tube if it has some time/mileage on it just as a safeguard. The Rock Auto kit came complete with gaskets, valve cover, Fuel Pressure vacuum hose, new PCV and PCV hose. The kit had more gaskets than I needed. I torqued all the bolts "by feel" as my torque wrench doesn't go to 7-12 ft/lbs. Just snug everything up and you'll be fine. I did follow the proper sequences though.

No more CEL and the van runs great.

To save everyone some time, here are some part numbers you may need:
XF2Z 8548 AA Tube assembly (coolant hose) ($59.44 )
F5RZ 9F955 AB IMRC bushing ($6.65/each)

Note that I did read that Kragen/Murrays may sell the IMRC bushings in a bulk pack for much less than Ford does. (I lost the Murrays part number, sorry.) I ended up not checking Kragen/Murrays for the clips as the store is out of my way, but if you are doing the IMRC clips (my IMRC rod was laying on the intake so it needed some clips!), I'd suggest to stop anywhere else first before going to the dealer. Just my .02

Thanks to those who contributed to this thread!

[rmestep]

for the repair kit go to advance or autozone, both have it for $98 !
It comes with all gaskets and bolts for the entire tsb repair. Just ask for a dorman valve cover repair kit with a part number 615-177. It also includes pcv valve and hose, and the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. It is way cheaper and easier then asking for individual parts!!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=53-0

Hopefully that will work

[bassboy]

I would just like to say a BIG thank you to all who have given such informative information regarding this matter of the 171 & 174 codes.
After getting a quote of .....(wait for it)......$2000 to perform the opperation on my 2002 windstar from Express oil, I, armed with my $97.99 am heading out to Autozone in the morning.
After reading the encouraging threads and the fab http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html fromPcitizen.
I'm quite looking forward to getting my hands dirty for a saving of $1900.
Weather permitting, it'll be spanners at dawn (sat)
I will let you know how it turns out.
Be gone pesky light.
P.S delay in starting , got the run around by the auto shop which ended up with me not getting the kit untill now (sunday) but they sold it to me for $84.99 which was a price I found on line. Oh well, I'll just have to wait till the missus is off work to look after the little one.

[PJM361]

I'm in the middle of doing this repair because I had to replace the power steering pump. So I had the cowl off I thought I might as well finally fix the problem. I've been clearing the codes & then driving around for 20 minutes before getting an inspection and it's past for the last 2 years. My van was running bad when these codes first came up but, it turn out to be a dirty Idle air control valve. Thanks to pcitizen for that great website. He mention the new valve cover doesn't have the little hole, is that the only difference? Can I just plug up that hole? Does anyone have pictures comparing the inside of the 2 valve covers? Thanks for all the help.
EDIT I just found this website hope it helps others.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pcv_filter.htm

[Freakzilla69]

Originally Posted by PJM361

I've been clearing the codes & then driving around for 20 minutes before getting an inspection and it's past for the last 2 years.

What year is your van and what state is the inspection for? I hope this works for me.

[PJM361]

Originally Posted by Freakzilla69

What year is your van and what state is the inspection for? I hope this works for me.

2000 & NY
As a warning for anyone with a Windstar keep an eye on your rear axle, ours cracked 3/4. Very dangerous if it separates all the way. I searched on the internet and it's not uncommon. But of course Ford won't do a recall so I had to pay to get it welded.

[ghstface2412]

Wow I have a 98 windstar..and I have been having the stalling and popping when accelerate after stopping at a light along with a blinking cel....codes 171 along with 402 came up..I found this site and it's awesome!...all you guys are great..I changed the egr sensor..spark plugs wires..booster hose...valve covers..before finding this site...getting started today to do what you recommended..I will show my wife I can make that cel light turn off..( its been on a year) once and for ALL! Thanks to everyone who helped with this forum.