INTAKE GASKET MAIN PAGE, PLEASE POST Q'S&A'S HERE! - Page 14

rhandwor · 10-07-2006, 06:39 PM

I'm glad it worked for you. If it still runs rough and the plug wires were correct. It is possible to put the wrong wires on the injectors as they are color coded somebody can find the colors for you. For somebody going to do this use tape and number injector wires if you don't have a diagram.

OzarkOutfitter · 10-07-2006, 08:48 PM

While changing the IMG for the second time, I found an excessive amount of sludgy oil buildup on the topend of the engine. I have cleaned everything extremely well from the engine block up, I now would like to remove the oil pan to clean there. I have searched this entire site and on the web for help or instructions for the process of removal of the oil pan.
unfortunatly Haynes was supposed to publish the manual on 10-1-2006 but I can't find one anywhere yet (they say it is still a couple of weeks out).
Has anyone here ever removed the oil pan on a venture? If so I would really appreciate a couple of hints as to how to remove the pan from the van.
It appears that there are some hidden bolts that I can not see.
We have a 2002 Venture.

Thanks very much for your help.
OZ OUT

rhandwor · 10-07-2006, 09:10 PM

I have never done an oil pan on a venture. But I have done many other vehicles.When removing an oil pan ii is important to have enough clearance to clear the oil pump strainer. Sometimes you can take the bolts out of the motor mounts and jack up the engine. You have to be careful not to break anything. Always clean the strainer for the oil pump. You will need 4 to 6 inches of clearance. Sometimes you can turn the pan or get a wrench in and remove the strainer. Your best bet is when it is on jack stands is use a flashlight and look around the pan. If you are scared buy a pan gasket. Count the holes and look where they are then count the bolts on the pan. They should be equal. After everything is clean and you are ready to reassemble if using a flat type gasket use adhesive and glue the gasket to the pan. If using some of the new rubber gaskets get about six longer bolts this way you can be sure the gasket is setting correctly push up the pan and start some other bolts and remove the long bolts. If anybody used silicone use a small screwdriver and clean out all bolt holes. Everytime you start a bolt check that you can see gasket around it.

Patrick8475 · 10-11-2006, 07:09 AM

Hello, this may be a dumb question, but here it goes. I am taking the alternator support bracket off so I can get to the rear valve cover. I have removed all of the obvious bolts, and it is still on very tight. I see one more on the back, but I can't get far enough in to see if that is holding it on. Can anyone tell me if that is one that attaches the bracket on? And if not, do I have to take the tensioner pulley off to remove the bracket? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

rhandwor · 10-11-2006, 07:56 AM

Use a flashlight and look at the mount you can see the outline if it is bent and goes to the back side their will be a bolt in it. Run your hand around the turn and you should feel it. Always look at what you are doing. The mount is probably 1/4 inch thick. Look at all sides if it is in the back use a flashlight and mirror. As you get more experienced this will come a lot easier to you.

Patrick8475 · 10-11-2006, 07:58 AM

I did feel around, and it does feel like it belongs to that bracket. But that is the only bolt left and it felt like the bracket is on there really solid for just being one bolt. That is why I was wondering the tension pulley was attached the whole way through.

rhandwor · 10-11-2006, 09:38 AM

If the bolt for the tensioner goes through the bracket you will have to remove it 1/4 inch plate isn't enough to hold a tensioner bolt it probably has 3/4 inch in the head.

Patrick8475 · 10-11-2006, 09:42 AM

I am gonna try that when I get home. This has been the strangest car I ever worked on. Everything is so tight and hard to get to.

wilrayca · 10-11-2006, 09:41 PM

The alternator bracket has 4 bolts. 3 horizontal and 1 vertical that is around the back. Have you tilted the motor forward? Access is not that bad with the motor tilted.

Patrick8475 · 10-12-2006, 07:13 AM

I haven't tilted the motor yet. How do you do that? I have been working on it in my spare time, so I haven't tried anything since Monday. I am hoping once I take the tension pulley off, it will be easier to get to. I took the car apart to replace a stuck lifter, and woudn't it figure it was one of the ones in the back.

rhandwor · 10-12-2006, 08:15 AM

Go to a parts store and k-d or lisle sells a tool it is a turn buckle with a couple of l shaped ends on it. Usually you have to disconnect a mount and gradually pull it forward. This holds the engine steady. You could make your own tool to hold it.

Patrick8475 · 10-12-2006, 08:19 AM

Thanks. I may give that a try if I can't get it off without it. Hopefully this will be a one time occurance with this car, so I hate to buy a tool. I can get at the rear bolt, I am just having problems with leverage due to the pulley being in the way. If this doesn't work I will definatley try lifting the engine.

wilrayca · 10-12-2006, 07:36 PM

Tilting the engine is quite easy. Just remove the 2 upper forward mounts. Use a strap or a rope and pull the engine forward, and secure the rope under the bumper. It is very easy to do, and should help you out. The tensioner does not need to come off to remove the alternator bracket.

Patrick8475 · 10-13-2006, 07:26 AM

Got it! Actually all I did was take the tensioner off, and the bracket just came off. I was able to remove the bad lifter. Tonight is going to be the reassembly. In most cars there is probably a rear bolt for the bracket, but as I have experienced this car is much different. I actually do have another question. When I got to the pushrods, there was one that had play in it, so I am assuming that is the lifter that is stuck. When I took the lifter out it does not look like it is damaged. Does the inside of the lifter move as well as the whole cylinder? The rest of the pushrods and lifters are tight.

rhandwor · 10-13-2006, 08:33 AM

Their is tension like a spring in a lifter. If you take a push rod and push down it should come back their is a definate tension. After they get oil in them they get a lot stiffer. Remove a good one next to it and check push rod length. Also check how it feels.Roll the two push rods on a flat surface like glass. A bent push rod won't roll properly. Put your hand on the valve spring and wiggle a worn valve guide can be felt. If you find anything out of the ordinary stop at an auto machine shop they sell parts and are helpful.
You can also have a worn lobe on a cam shaft.

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