Lola T-70 Mk III

[Scale-Master]

Once I knew the base of the manifold fit the engine I added the runners and flanges.

[Scale-Master]

First print of the full manifold.


Test printed the carb parts at the same time. In the end it looks like I'll have to machine hardware for them like usual.


Although I was half surprised the lower linkage and springs grew…

[Scale-Master]

The radius rods in the kit are clunky chromed plastic with C type snap "fittings". And they are somewhat flexible.
I drew up adjustable rod ends and joints and printed some out. I printed one set assembled together for the rear joints to make mocking it up and sizing the rods easier.
The main radius rods are steel rod and the receivers for the control links are brass rod.

[Scale-Master]

While I was able to engineer in the correct angles for the intake manifold to mate to the block and heads when I designed it; the printer left too much slag on the bottom surfaces and I had to fixture it up in my mill to cut those angles for a proper fit. This material is very brittle and I was relieved that it took the vise and milling as well as it did.
I also added a couple more magnets to it.



The block received two more magnets too. As well as brass tubing under the thermostat housing and the distributor to positively locate and align the manifold.

[Deathtrap]

I was looking over the pages of this build... man that is some serious craftmenship. I just drawn my very first Porsche Cup wheel in Blender and need to do a final print on my Anycubic Photon.

I must have missed that you had planned to magnetize the engine blok. That of course it nice, so you can see the inner detail as well. Although I'm not sure you will be handling the model that often.

Good luck on the rest. I love to watch it grow.

[Scale-Master]

Thanks! The magnets are mainly a tool for building in this case. I don't plan on making it something to tear down once it is finished.

I turned my attention back the carbs and added brass tubing to the intake for positive locating of the Webers. I used the one I test grew to double check alignment.

[Scale-Master]

Built up the rear suspension rods and ends, and they work with the rest of the moving suspension parts. Steel rods, cast resin joints made from 3D printed masters I designed and grew and brass pivot points.

[Scale-Master]

Made new lower control arms from steel and cast resin ends.

[Scale-Master]

I'm guessing the oval hole in the engine cover is a carry-over from the first issue for the power switch for the motor and lights. They provide a plug, but it needs to be faired in.

[kans0002]

Amazing work as usual. Been following this build from the start, I just run out of ways to say that it’s awesome that aren’t overly repetitive.

[Scale-Master]

Thanks kans!

These are the final masters for the carbs, I grew them from the 3D files I created from scratch.

These are the cast resin tops. The venturi tubes are stainless steel. I used a very thin coat of primer then a thin coat of silver to see how they look. Still more fine tuning to do.

These are the cast resin main bodies; same as the tops, more work to do…

[Scale-Master]

I designed the intake horns in SolidWorks and printed the master, then cast copies in resin.
The one in the foreground is a 3D master.

[Scale-Master]

The block got a new brass dipstick channel.

The dipstick tube is stainless steel.

And the (removable) dipstick is nickel and brass.

[Scale-Master]

I made a new era correct timing tab to bolt onto the timing cover. I still need to add the markings.

[Scale-Master]

The construction of the starter has begun. I have a real one on my bench to copy. Machined from brass and aluminum.



Solenoid.