Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[stryder1]

Originally Posted by Dekeman

I did this job last weekend; took about 4-4.5 hrs. No fluid change necessary for this repair. I stayed away from the kits as they weren't OEM Motorcraft parts; this was a personal choice I made based on my experience with various cheaper parts in the past. I also figured that I wasn't removing the throttle body or IAC valve, so I didn't need those gaskets or the valve cover (I have the new type) included in the kit.

I removed the cowling to do this job and it made everything just a lot easier. I recommend doing this. I used pcitizen's really helpful website- thanks!!!! What a great resource! I didn't have a lot of oil in the intake, but it was serious in the PCV hose and the throttle body. Lots of oil contamination. I cleaned the lower plastic shell in a parts cleaner tank, but hosing it down with carb cleaner would have done just as well. I left the upper intake alone as I couldn't figure out how to get it apart. That may be something I come back to do right. The new bolts had more resilient rubber jackets. I didn't listen for the hissing, but I can see how their lack of give would create a leak. Everything went back together just fine. Replaced the port seals and the upper to lower seal but reused the rest. Everything's fine.

My van threw a P1409 code (generic vacuum fault) after I was done. First I cussed the stinking van (:-), then I poked around and realized that I forgot to reconnect the harness for the EVR (elec. vacuum regulator) in the back of the intake clamshell. Three driving cycles to clear the code and all was good as new! It has a lot more get up and go. I did the MAF sensor cleaning and a new air filter, followed by a Seafoaming, and got a lot of billowing white smoke, like I did last year. Figured that I'd get it running well and get better mileage since we're paying out the nose for gas. I've got another code today, so we'll see if I was just un-careful in reassembling or it's the MAF that I dropped in it's housing during the seafoaming process (it fell off of the front as my wife was revving- oops...). Will update.

Oh, and I did not do the PCM reflashing, as it affects mileage (for the worse). YMMV (literally!).

Thanks for the reponse.

I think I will be Ford parts just because they are OEM don't want to have to do this twice.

Since I am not a mechanic do I need to lubricate anything when putting everything in and the engine back together and if so what lubricant should I use. I will follow PCcitizens instructions but sometimes things are not included in instructions as it is taken for granted that people would know to do this.


Thanks.

[69cuda340s]

I put a small amount of anti-sieze on the insulator bolt threads. Not neccessary but I don't want them to sieze up later. Everything else goes together dry.

[rdsibley]

Here is another victim of this problem. I just did the isolator bolts and gaskets a few days ago and now it idles great. I was really worried about getting into. I've worked on heavy equipment, generators, and airplanes but for some reason tearing into my own vehicle like this made me anxious. But it wasn't that hard and the parts cost less than $100.

However, afterward the light came (grrrrrrr), I checked the code and it was a 1401, some problem with the DPFE sensor. I just replaced this a few months ago. I rechecked all my connections and can't find anything missing. It is running great and was going to drive it awhile and try to clear it again.
Has anyone else had this same code after doing this TSB?

[Mapdog]

I had my DPFE go bad (same codes again) within a few months after buying a new one from Advance Auto. I returned it on warranty and they replaced it. The new one is working fine so far.

[mundy5]

rdsibly, i'd concur with mapdog. i'd go get it replaced since it definitely is under warranty. i hear it's an easy replacement.

actually to answer your question, the lemky website creator had the exact same issue of getting the dpfe code not long after doing this. however, his dpfe was original and was in bad shape when he opened it up. your situation is very different since you replaced it just months ago. it should not go bad that quickly.

[rdsibley]

Thanks Mapdog and Mundy, I guess I will be replacing it.

[sreilly77]

My friend's 1996 Windstar is also the victim of the p0171/p0174 trouble codes with the check engine light on. Here is what the van is doing:

When I start the car, it idles very rough, the engine rattles really bad, and it is billowing GRAY smoke. It smokes so bad that it seems like I just Seafoamed the engine. The smoke DOES NOT smell like anti-freeze, but it smells like burning carbon. I can't even drive the thing because the gray smoke is so heavy it's ridiculous. It seems to have power, but when I come to a stop or sitting in park, the engine idles really rough.

Now I saw some threads here about how to repair this problem with 2000-2002 Ford Windstars. Does the same repairs apply to the 1996 year? Also, do any of you guys have the problem with a loud rattling/clanking noise inside the engine? Thanks!

[wiswind]

The 1995-1998 are NOT included in the TSB for the 1999 and newer isolator bolt issue.
Totally different upper intake manifold.

I listed some things to check in your other post.

[stryder1]

Did the repair last weekend and so far no CELs.

Took me about 2 1/2 hours and I too would recommend taking off the cowling, it made everything very easy to get at. My biggest issue was borrowing a torque wrench that did 7 lb/ft.

I bought the parts in Buffalo at a US dealership as the Canadian ones are ripping us off. Example, isolator bolts in Canada $13 each and in the US $7 each. So much for money at par.

Thanks to everyone. Without this board I probably would have had to go to a mechanic.

[stryder1]

HELP!!!!!

As mentioned above I did the repair a week and a half ago and now my AC doesn't work.

My gut is that it is a coincidence but could I have possibly not connected something backup.

The AC light comes on the HVAC control but the clutch on the AC compressor does not engage. It stays still but the fan belt moves well.

If the clutch doesn;t engage does that mean that the freon is low?

Thanks.

[mundy5]

I can't say with 100% certainty but no one here has had this issue after fixing the isolator bolts. Many have had the 401 code come up which might or might not be a coincidence. looks like something is wrong with your compressor or with your relay or it could be something electrical or even low r134a.

[kvn4]

Well did my 171,174 code fix have to say went smoothly. no light yet still doing relearn on computer (dont think I need to)I hope.The only thing that I that was stupid was to do job shirtless on a very warm sunny day ,ended up with very bad sun burn .Well learn you learn from you own mistakes.LOL.Shall let y*all know if any codes show up ,

[johnqpyro]

I am getting ready to do the tsb on my 2003. I have a few questions...

My Valve cover is black, and i cannot see the hole in the 5:00 position. Should I replace it anyway?

How do you clean the MAF?

I bought new gaskets for the air intake manafold, Do I use a sealant, or do they go on dry?

Thanks everyone for your help, I can build computers from chewing gum, and toothpicks, but cars scare me....

[stryder1]

Originally Posted by johnqpyro

I am getting ready to do the tsb on my 2003. I have a few questions...

My Valve cover is black, and i cannot see the hole in the 5:00 position. Should I replace it anyway?

How do you clean the MAF?

I bought new gaskets for the air intake manafold, Do I use a sealant, or do they go on dry?

Thanks everyone for your help, I can build computers from chewing gum, and toothpicks, but cars scare me....

The valve cover is fine on the 2003. It does not need to be replaced.

There is specific MAF cleaner that can be purchased at NAPA or other auto parts stores but I just use electronic parts cleaner.

The gaskets go on dry.

Good luck.

[Jerry Irons]

pcitizen, man your website rocks big time! Can't say thanks enough!

For everyone else, I was yet another statistic of the P0171/P0174 error messages. I have a 2001 Windstar, with about 140,000 miles on it. Problem started last year, when I would notice one of the codes (single bank), would pop on typically during the winter, after the engine would idle for a while. (ie start car in morning at home, stop at drive through coffee shop, CEL light pops on). My first thought was 02 sensor at the time. Anyway, car would drive perfectly fine, other than the CEL. I would erase the code, and everything was fine. Weird thing was that during summer, problem went away. Maybe during fall, get one code a month. Like I said, initially thought 02 sensor (in error of course). Progressively, the problem got much worse until finally this past winter and the CEL was pretty much on all of the time, with both codes. Note the car ran just fine by the way. Luckily I found this forum and website, what a tremendous help! Did the repair about 2 months ago, everything fine. I think I bought the parts at the dealer for about $170. These bolts should clearly have been recalled, but since there is no safety issue god forbid Ford volunteering to do this. Quite the sticker shock to buy those isolator bolts at near $8 apiece, and there are 8!!! Same prices at 2 dealers, and I didn't want to worry about ebay parts not working right.

Some notes I might add. The amount of oil that I had in my manifold was shocking. I have not taken that many manifolds off, but I remember my F150 being very dry. Not this one! Imagine taking the manifold and submerging it in oil. The EGR ports looked like horizontal stalactites with all of the crud they had sticking out. It was amazing to me the engine ran as well as it did, the computer must really be able to adjust as needed. I like someone else skipped a few steps at first because I thought they didn't apply to me, only to discover that the throttle body is attached to the manifold, and yes you do need to remove those cables... One of the hoses to remove, specifically the one with the "squeeze clamp", was so difficult to remove, that I left the clamp on, and removed it from the other end instead. I was too afraid to ruin the hose. Just in case anyone else has this happen. Also definitely take the cowl off, be careful though some of those bolts might be rusted, and they mount in plastic housing. I ended up breaking some of those pieces off, but it wasn't really a big deal, replaced bad bolts withh new bolts from hardware store and large washers.

Also, I changed my spark plugs and spark plug wires since the cowl was off, just to make this job longer... By the way, the rear plug on the passenger side is much easier to remove if you drive the car up on ramps first, and get it from below.

Thanks pcitizen,