Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[69cuda340s]

Originally Posted by pcitizen

Please check http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html for more information on the Isolator Bolt TSB and DPFE problems.

Hello,

I found this site because I was looking for PO171 / PO174 DTC information. I would like to thank pcitizen for his very informative web site! That is some great information.

I have a 2002 Windstar I bought new and it now has 68,000 miles. I just got the PO171 PO174 codes. My van DOES have the updated valve cover without the hole. After reading this entire thread I started the van up and used a 3/8" fuel line hose about 3 feet long. I held one end of the hose to my ear, and the other end around the front driver's side intake where the lower portion meets the engine. I definately DO hear a hissing sound in this area so I strongly believe I have this problem. I cleaned out the PCV today and found some oil in the upper portion by the throttle body. I have cleaned the PCV a least a few times over the years. Anyway, I plan to do this repair myself because my hobby is repair/maintainance/restoration of cars. I am going to order the parts online from a OEM Ford Parts dealer.

I already replaced the DPFE sensor a few months back due to an EGR code. I would like to point out that on a 2002 Windstar the DPFE is located on the driver's side down by the valve cover and is held in place by the two rubber hoses. You just pull the hoses off, remove electrical connector, and it comes right off. Just thought I throw that out there because it is different from the earlier versions.

I'll post back once I complete the repair.

Bill
2002 Windstar

[69cuda340s]

OK, I found a dealer today that was open and had the parts in stock. When I called them and asked for the first number he already knew the other parts I needed. He said they sell them every day. All went well and the van idles perfectly now. After the repair I used the 3/8" fuel hose again and verified no air is leaking now.

I'd like to note the following items:

1) Van would not start after the repair. I sprayed carb cleaner into the intake to clean the EGR ports and the butterfly valves. The issue was the engine was flooded with carb cleaner. So I held the gas pedal to the floor and cranked the starter. It cleared out after a bit and then started and ran perfectly.

2) The original long gasket between the two plastic halves was in perfect shape. I bought one at the dealer and replaced it anyway.

3) The original black rubber insulators on the insulator bolts were very hard which is probably why they leaked air and lost tension.

4) The upper and lower intake were coated with oil inside. I completely removed them from the van and sprayed them down with carburator cleaner which quickly removed all the oil. Then I wiped them down with fresh clean rags then blew them dry with compressed air. Eye protection is needed if you go this route.

5) The six seals on the lower intake were covered in oil. In one location you could see where the oil was leaking out.

6) Some of the metal clips on the cowl cover broke off. I glued them back on with 3M Super Weatherstrip Adheasive (any good auto parts store will carry it). I glued them back on as soon as I removed the cover so when it was time to put it back the glue was completely dry.

7) Parts at the dealer were $99 including taxes (6 gaskets, 8 bolts, one large gasket). Same OEM Ford Parts can be had online for $68 plus shipping. Two cans of 2+2 Carburator Cleaner was $7 (Walmart would have been cheaper).

8) Took about 4 hours working at a nice slow pace. I didn't want to mess anything up.

Wife is very happy van is running smoothly! I am very happy with the results.

Special thanks to pcitizen. You have no idea how much you have helped me. Thanks again,

Bill
2002 Windstar

[cmfam7]

Hi everyone,
I just wanted to thank everyone one here for all the help that i have recieved with a few of my vehicles. I also wanted to let you know that i completed the repair today of the 171&174 problem took me about 3.5 hours parts cost me 207 and change. Not a difficult project just time consuming . Van runs great now. Thanks again.

Clarence
2001
windstar

[penguinix]

Hi all, I just got through doing the repair. It took me a lot longer than most of you are reporting, mainly because I'm not very mechanically inclined.. but I think I have it done. My Dad helped me and he has done some work like this before, so all wasn't lost.

I only have 3 problems:

1) We accidentally dropped one of the bolts that holds the windshield wiper deep under the cowling somewhere.. I may have to buy another one unless I can get the cowling off and find it again.

2) When I start it, there is a "knocking" noise that seems to happen every second or two. I thought maybe I had hooked the wrong spark plug wires to the wrong spark plugs, even though I documented the order.
Can someone tell me if you are hooking the wires on the front plugs, is it (left to right) 4, 6, 5 ??? If not, maybe that's my problem?
Otherwise, any ideas?

3) When I turn it off, there is some sort of gurgling/rattling noise that seems to come from the valve cover area. Is this normal or a sign that I messed something up? I didn't replace the valve cover, but I did take it off and put it back on to verify that I had the "fixed" one.

Thanks!
Penguinix

BTW, parts cost me about $93 .. I ordered from a Ford Dealer online... I did not have to replace the valve cover.

[penguinix]

Originally Posted by penguinix

2) When I start it, there is a "knocking" noise that seems to happen every second or two. I thought maybe I had hooked the wrong spark plug wires to the wrong spark plugs, even though I documented the order.
Can someone tell me if you are hooking the wires on the front plugs, is it (left to right) 4, 6, 5 ??? If not, maybe that's my problem?
Otherwise, any ideas?

3) When I turn it off, there is some sort of gurgling/rattling noise that seems to come from the valve cover area. Is this normal or a sign that I messed something up? I didn't replace the valve cover, but I did take it off and put it back on to verify that I had the "fixed" one.

Update on #2: I found my reference manual and discovered that it should be 4, 5 6 on the plugs. I changed that and the "knocking noise" seems to be gone.

Now, I just need to figure out if the "gurgling" is normal (#3).

[penguinix]

Originally Posted by penguinix

Update on #2: I found my reference manual and discovered that it should be 4, 5 6 on the plugs. I changed that and the "knocking noise" seems to be gone.

Now, I just need to figure out if the "gurgling" is normal (#3).

I now believe that the noise is not normal.. and it seems to be from the intake manifold, not the valve cover as I first said. I'm going to go back in today after work.. I must have left something loose or such.

Thanks!
Penguinix

[penguinix]

Originally Posted by penguinix

I now believe that the noise is not normal.. and it seems to be from the intake manifold, not the valve cover as I first said. I'm going to go back in today after work.. I must have left something loose or such.

Ok, I'm sure everyone will be tired of me replying to myself. I figured out the problem. The cabin air assembly on the cowling was the problem. It rattled when the engine was shut off. Problem solved.

Thanks for all the info from everyone, it really helped me out on making this repair. The engine is running very smoothly now.
Penguinix

[kvn4]

repair kit for dyi. New to forum I found repair kit on net if you like fixing yourself. Cost 100.00 bucks and has all parts needed for repair. The site is 1a auto.com I havent fixed mine yet (waiting for warmer wheather).By reading posts I felt I should share info about cost of parts to repair .I hope this helps some of you in you quest on repairs.

[flewellen1]

Try Ebay also, just type in ford windstar valve repair and the whole kit will come up for about $63 dollars.

I am in Wis and it is too cold to work on mine so I am waiting until mid march.

[penguinix]

I've read comments in other threads about some people having trouble with some of these kits (quality-wise). I went with the parts from Ford for this reason. Mine cost me about $93 shipped, w/out the valve cover.

Let me know how it works out with the kit
Penguinix

[jrdodgerfan]

I would like to thank PCitizen for the great website & info on the 171 & 174 codes. I have little mechanical experience (oil changes, alternators, starters, etc..) but with his great link, photos & detailed breakdown off how to fix this problem, I was able make these repairs in about 6 hours on my wifes 2003 windstar ( & with no parts left over) I am glad that you didnt take this website down. It has been about 3 weeks & it is running great. Hats off to you, couldn't have done it with out this info.

[veerg]

I bought the parts about one year ago from the web site listed in the earlier msg. Cost $79+shipping. Included all gaskets, bolts and the cover. Gaskets Seemed very similar to the ones I took off. Bolts were green top as required. Did the job about 4 mths ago. 5K+ local miles. No problem so far. If I have to do it on another van, I would use the same parts again.

[94 Mustang]

Thanks to PC Citizen and this forum for the info. I did the repair last night on my wifes windstar. The check engine light is currently off but my code reader shows that there is a "pending" status so we will see what happens.

One note about pulling off connections. After I put it all back together I thought I had everything back on but missed one vacuum line that was laying against its connector but not on.

Count your vaccuum lines and wires you remove so you can make sure you put them all back on

I didn't think I had the valve cover that needs replacing but I do. I didn't buy it at the dealership at the time I bought everything else. I sure as heck don't plan on spending that kind of money on more repairs though. JB Weld, or a nut/some type of plug will suffice as far as I am concerned.

[stryder1]

Well another victim on the dreaded 171 & 174 codes.

I have a 2000 Windstar and my extended warantee ran out last August.

I am looking a buying the kit from 1A auto and was wondering if anyone else had good success with it. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IntakeManif...ar/1AEVC00013/

Also, if I do the work myself what have others done about the PCM update. Will FORD or any mechanic be able to update my PCM to WDS B26.2?

Do I need to drop/change any fluids in order to do this repair?

Thanks.

[Dekeman]

Originally Posted by stryder1

Well another victim on the dreaded 171 & 174 codes.

I have a 2000 Windstar and my extended warantee ran out last August.

I am looking a buying the kit from 1A auto and was wondering if anyone else had good success with it. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IntakeManif...ar/1AEVC00013/

Also, if I do the work myself what have others done about the PCM update. Will FORD or any mechanic be able to update my PCM to WDS B26.2?

Do I need to drop/change any fluids in order to do this repair?

Thanks.

I did this job last weekend; took about 4-4.5 hrs. No fluid change necessary for this repair. I stayed away from the kits as they weren't OEM Motorcraft parts; this was a personal choice I made based on my experience with various cheaper parts in the past. I also figured that I wasn't removing the throttle body or IAC valve, so I didn't need those gaskets or the valve cover (I have the new type) included in the kit.

I removed the cowling to do this job and it made everything just a lot easier. I recommend doing this. I used pcitizen's really helpful website- thanks!!!! What a great resource! I didn't have a lot of oil in the intake, but it was serious in the PCV hose and the throttle body. Lots of oil contamination. I cleaned the lower plastic shell in a parts cleaner tank, but hosing it down with carb cleaner would have done just as well. I left the upper intake alone as I couldn't figure out how to get it apart. That may be something I come back to do right. The new bolts had more resilient rubber jackets. I didn't listen for the hissing, but I can see how their lack of give would create a leak. Everything went back together just fine. Replaced the port seals and the upper to lower seal but reused the rest. Everything's fine.

My van threw a P1409 code (generic vacuum fault) after I was done. First I cussed the stinking van (:-), then I poked around and realized that I forgot to reconnect the harness for the EVR (elec. vacuum regulator) in the back of the intake clamshell. Three driving cycles to clear the code and all was good as new! It has a lot more get up and go. I did the MAF sensor cleaning and a new air filter, followed by a Seafoaming, and got a lot of billowing white smoke, like I did last year. Figured that I'd get it running well and get better mileage since we're paying out the nose for gas. I've got another code today, so we'll see if I was just un-careful in reassembling or it's the MAF that I dropped in it's housing during the seafoaming process (it fell off of the front as my wife was revving- oops...). Will update.

Oh, and I did not do the PCM reflashing, as it affects mileage (for the worse). YMMV (literally!).