Ignition switch problems

[Renegade2k]

About 2 years ago I started having dying issues and my instrument cluster flashing like someone was cycling the switch. I also had a bad PASSLOCK deal going on. I cut the wire to disable the passlock after replacing the ignition switch, lock cylinder and PASSLOCK. It would lock me out if I turned the key too fast.

Now six months ago, my blower on my heater/AC would start and stop working whenever it wanted. A month ago my car started having a very inconsistent delay of turning on ign0 circuit. My remote start that bypasses the switch always works. So I replaced the switch. I have 12v going in and when it is failing I have 0 volts coming out on either ign0 or on the heater wires. if I wait it usually works, but if I apply power to either circuit at the switch momentarily everything works fine until I shut off the car.

I have isolated the remote start by unplugging the inline jumper harness and going back to stock and the symptoms remain. I have now plugged it back in so I can start the car. I keep coming back to the switch I've replaced twice already.

Ign1 and ign2 seem to be the only power coming in and they are always live as far as I can see.
I have wiring diagrams but can't find one specifically on all the errors for the ignition switch.

Sometimes I get the service vehicle soon light if it takes too long to get power but I think that is because ign0 isn't giving power to the BCM

[Tech II]

What year?

Just cut the wire? Did nothing else like adding a resistor?

[Renegade2k]

2000

Tried a resister and it wasn't working so I just left the wire unhooked

[Tech II]

Help? Switch is powered by !GN1 50a fuse.....



Fed by IGN2 fuse 50a

[Renegade2k]

I wish I had that yesterday, nut those green and orange wires are definitely the circuits

[Renegade2k]

Well the culprit does seem to be the cheap wire terminals on my jumper harness for my remote start. They were being pushed out and they are just all around cheap. I was able to verify 100% voltage drop across the switch on those circuits with three harness connected and no problems with it directly connected to my old switch.

I repaired the connectors and re hooked it up as it's always been. Cycled the ignition 100 times. No problems except my battery got so low it almost didn't start. (If my Passlock still worked I would of had to jump it) I'll try Another 100 before I call it good and put the dash back together.
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[Tech II]

Good job on your part, finding the problem.....

You don't know how many problems I have seen, caused by aftermarket, remote start/alarm installations.........seen it all......wires twisted together with tape, instead of being soldered or crimped.......have seen the quick connectors used that sometimes destroy the wiring they are attaching to......

But for the life of me, it amazes me that I see a lot of alarm systems put in GM cars, that already have alarm systems....

It was always my nightmare to drop a hush panel on the driver's side, and see a module come down, with a wiring harness poorly attached to the OEM wiring......I always told the customer, his/her best bet was to remove the system completely and repair all the connections....

[Renegade2k]

Well, Shortly after my wife take the car to my old neighbor with a snap-on scanner and clear out the codes on the module. Big mistake. because I had that wire cut for the passlock it crippled the car and wouldn't start.

Since I am living 7 hours away now, and she is still at the old house I had to drive all the way back up there and reattach and reprogram the Passlock to get things working again. (My old neighbor had no idea how to do it).

So after getting it to the new house, the problems kept happening and I finally caved and replaced the Ignition switch again, THIS TIME WITH ACDELCO.

6 MONTHS LATER IT STILL WORKS