98 Camaro Wont Start

Rkeefer23 · 03-25-2010, 11:16 PM

98 3.8 Manual 178k

Hey Guys! My car has been having issues starting the last month or two. At times it starts ok while at other times it takes me several tries. If it doesn't initially start, it can take anywhere between 2 and 40 attempts. I hear no clicking or other sounds when it doesn't start although my radio and headlights will work fine. I replaced the starter a few weeks ago and it started fine after that until today after work :-(. It took me 30 tries and then all of a sudden it started out of nowhere. Then later on it took about 10 tries.

Recent Part Replacements

Starter
Battery
Alternator
Ignition Control Module
Cat Converter
Spark Plugs
Wires

I'm not sure what else I can try, has anyone had something similar happen to them? I appreciate the feedback!

P.S. I have an oil leak and my old starter had a fair amount of oil on it. Not sure if that would matter or not though.

wrightz28 · 03-31-2010, 10:56 AM

I'd give the ignition switch a once over and make sure it didn't come loose on the column. Also, if you have another key, I'd give that try.

2kflhr · 04-04-2010, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrightz28

I'd give the ignition switch a once over and make sure it didn't come loose on the column. Also, if you have another key, I'd give that try.

The ignition switch is down at the bottom of the steering column. The key switch has a rod on it that runs down the column that engages the ignition switch. It probably has a burned terminal causing a bad connection. I had that same problem on my '97 SS.

You can slowly rotate the key switch and it will usually hit the sweet spot and crank. Try that, but don't put off fixing it and rely on it working every time.

Rkeefer23 · 04-26-2010, 05:02 PM

Thank you guys so much for the replies. I am still wrestling with this issue a month later. I tried adjusting the steering column height and using my spare key but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It will start fine for a week and all of a sudden it takes 100 attempts or more before it starts.

I'm interested in the response offered by 2kflhr since I feel like I have tried everything else.

I am pretty inexperienced as far as this part of the vehicle is concerned. Is the steering column easy to remove and is the ignition switch easy to spot? If the terminal is indeed burned, will it be visible after simply removing the steering column cover? And what kind of fix would it entail if a burned terminal is the culprit?

I really appreciate everyone's feedback.

Thanks!

Rkeefer23 · 04-26-2010, 06:44 PM

Also, I was reading this thread and it sounds similar as well.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...gnition+switch

I often have the electric windows and radio go out for no apparent reason and then turn on again randomly. But even when I turn the key and the radio does turn on and the windows do work, it still will not start many times

Ralph123 · 04-26-2010, 07:45 PM

Your radio windows problem is due to a bad solder joint in your BCM
click here>>> http://www.automotiveforums.com/t739...g_problem.html

Rkeefer23 · 04-27-2010, 01:29 PM

Thanks Ralph123...

If it is indeed a bad soldiering joint on the Body Control Module do you think that could also possibly cause the car to not start at times? Or is it more likely two seperate issues?

Thanks again!

Ralph123 · 04-27-2010, 11:40 PM

two separate issues.
When you turn your key to the run position do you get a bulb check on your dash?
Make sure your battery cables are clean and tight.
Does it start right up when you jump start it?

Rkeefer23 · 04-28-2010, 11:53 AM

Yeah, I get all the guage lights and movement on my dash when the key is in the run position and my headlights will work. I haven't tried to jump it yet when this issue arises because unfortunately, I am always in a place with no other cars around when it decides to go out on me :-(

But it did happen with my old battery as well as the new one I just got last month.

Ralph123 · 04-28-2010, 10:46 PM

Try starting it in neutral. It could be your park/neutral switch.

Check your starter relay in the under hood fuse box if you have one.I have one in my 99 Firebird.

Check for 12 volts on your starter solenoid when the key is being turned. If no voltage there then it's time to get into your steering column.

Rkeefer23 · 08-10-2010, 10:48 PM

Thanks for the advice. Again, months later, this issue still keeps resurfacing.

I tried a new clutch safety switch and new relays and still had no luck. Today, while it wouldn't start using the key, I was able to start it by running a piece of wire from the positive battery end to the hole that the ignition relay plugs into. Other than that, it is still intermittently starting and getting worse, often taking hundreds of attempts.

If the problem is the ignition, would this have to be fixed at a dealership? I went to Autozone and they sold it but told me I would have to have a transponder chip cut and put on the key template included with the lock or else it wont start.

P.S. - I took the aftermarket cd player out and put the stock radio back in and the issue of the window/radio turning on and off seems to have gone away.

wrightz28 · 08-11-2010, 10:05 AM

Did you ever replace the ignition swtich? NOT THE KEY LOCK, the electrical switch at the bottom of the column witha rod connecting it to the key lock?

Rkeefer23 · 08-11-2010, 10:31 AM

I hadn't. I thought the lock and the switch were the same thing.

How would I get the column off to check? Once the column comes off is the switch in plain sight? And would it be hard to replace if that turns out to be the issue?

Thanks!

wrightz28 · 08-12-2010, 08:29 AM

You do not have to take off the column. The only thing you'd have to take off is the dash trim panel covering it. From there, you may be able to replace the switch without having to drop (loosen) the column, I'm not sure on a 4th gen, but given typical location of the switch, I'd imagine you would. All you have to do is loosen (maybe remove) the two large bolts afixing the column in place to the underside of the dash.

After that, the switch itself is a sinch, few small bolts and a matter of unhooking the wiring harness to it. That said, some switches have eliptical bolt holes, making them adjustable, if this is the case with yours, yours may just need adjusted. Over all, this switch is the 'central nervous system' for the electric distribution for the car, and most likely your problem.

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