XFi Camshaft Swap - How To

[Johnny Mullet]

This has been long overdue, but the time has arrived for me to finally swap in my 3Tech economy cam and advanced timing gear. I was going to wait until my other head project was done and just swap heads, but I can always transfer the parts. The car (Christine) is in the bay waiting patiently..............



First thing is to remove the air cleaner assy and unhook the PCV hose and plug wires from the valve cover. To remove the valve cover, you need to remove the 4 nuts and then strike the seals counter-clockwise with a small hammer and screwdriver until you can get some pliers on them to thread them off without damage.........





Remove the valve cover. Now we go to the water pump pulley and remove the 4 bolts with the belt still attached. You might have to use a screwdriver to hold it still.............



Pop off the pulley and drive belt and this will expose the timing belt cover for removal, but first we need to remove the crank pulley. Jack up and safely set on stands and remove the right front tire. Now remove the small mounting bolts (older models have 4 and newer models have 5) and the pulley should come off with a couple whacks with a soft hammer.............



Now you can remove all the timing cover bolts and remove the cover.............



Line up the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley by rotating the engine slowly. Removing the plugs to relieve compression helps, but not needed.............



Mark the timing belt with an arrow noting the rotation direction if you are re-using it..............



Loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the belt. Replace the belt if it looks due or questionable............



Now we get to remove the camshaft. You can use a screwdriver through the cam holes if you rotate it and slide it through to hold it still so you can loosen the cam gear bolt or use an impact when it's out. Here is a reference pic so you understand..........
CLICK

Now remove the sideways bolt in cam cap #3...........



Slowly loosen the 6 cam cap bolts. You may turn the cam slightly to relieve pressure from the lifters. This will not hurt anything, but please note the position of the distributor tabs and don't let it rotate after the cam is out. Remove the cam noting and comparing with the new cam so you know how it goes back together. Get a green scotch brite pad and clean all the cam journals and cam caps so they are nice and smooth again, but be careful not to turn the distributor tabs.............





If you happen to tear the distributor gasket, apply a coat of RTV silicone to the side and it should seal up.

Get your new parts ready. I got the economy cam and gear and a new cam seal (Federal Mogul # 710310). Please note that older models have a solid cam gear, but the guide is the same. ...........



Install the cam seal with a finger swipe of oil around the inner part and then use some locktite and install the cam gear to the cam and torque the bolt to 44 Ft lbs (all years) making note of the new marks on the cam gear if you have an advanced gear from 3Tech........



Now liberally coat the cam lobes and journals with motor oil................



Install the cam like you removed the old one and line it up to the distributor tabs...........



Make sure the cam seal is lined properly and install the cam caps and torque to 96 in-lbs (all years)...........



If you slightly rotated the cam during removal to relieve pressure, now is the time to rotate the cam back. Set the valve cover on so you can line the new mark with the notch in the cover.......

Install the timing belt and rotate the engine by hand 2 revolutions until the marks line up again and make sure they are correct..........



Tighten the tensioner and re-assemble the rest just like you took it apart. Take an initial test drive and listen for engine ping (spark knock) while driving. If it is, then most likely, you are off by one tooth. Remove the belt and turn the cam counterclockwise one notch. If you notice lack of low end power, but good power at high RPM's, then turn the cam clockwise one tooth. You should be able to run this with the distributor fully advanced with the gear.

Hope this helps someone out there interested in these parts but worried about installation. Here are more torque specs if you need them.........
http://geometroforum.com/topic/1009792/

All I have to say is that anyone who owns a 1.0L Metro or Swift should do this mod! It will pay for itself in MPG increases and will keep that ear to ear grin on your face all day long! First thing I noticed was the low end torque has increased. I can now shift sooner and the engine will not lug in higher gears. I can also climb this certain hill I encounter everyday in 4th gear instead of 3rd gear. 5th gear is no longer useless for passing either.

[RossT]

Very nicely done! Thanks..

[brivers]

So did your mpgs change?

[RossT]

On the older engines do you have to re-time and if so what do set it at?

[Johnny Mullet]

If you used an advanced gear, then you can advance the dizzy to full advance.

I just filled up and it will take 2 weeks for the fuel mileage update at least.

[ydeardorff]

what advance gear sprocket +6, +8, +10 did you use?

any up date on the mpg?

[ydeardorff]

what advance gear sprocket +6, +8, +10 did you use?

any up date on the mpg? 60 70 90 mpg? lol

[Johnny Mullet]

I went with the 10 degree sprocket. My last 3 tanks before the swap were at 63 MPG and since the swap, I have went to 65 MPG first tank, but there was some experimenting going on, so I suspect even better next tank.

[ydeardorff]

Is there a store or ebay store where I can buy/price this. I didnt see it in the link

Also, Im looking for a new molded carpet, and headliner for my car, any links?

I talked to chevy about a parcel shelf, they still have them, but at the absurd price of 407 USD each. anybody got any links/ connections for this item?

[Johnny Mullet]

You can only get this stuff from http://geometroforum.com/pages/3tech

Contact him Via E-Mail and he will reply.