Hard to start

[dcalton51]

I have a 95 Formula with the LT1. I have added a K&N fipk cold air intake, new plugs and wires recently, and a fuel filter about 3k miles ago.

It has been hard to start after it has sat for awhile. Once running If you shut it off it will start right back up. Basically it cranks for around 20-30 seconds when cold before it catches. When it catches, It runs rough for about 5 seconds then it runs fine. It runs fine once it has started, but I notice a slight buckling at low rpm hwy speed.

I have cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body already. I also have checked the fuel pump, and the fuel pump does turn on with the key in the on position.
I have been turning the key forward till the pump quits whining (approximatly 5 seconds) about 4 times and it starts much faster.

I need to fix this asap since it is my only car and I am a college student, any ideas?
Thanks

[wrightz28]

Did you "remount" the intake air sensor or just leave it dangling in the engine bay?

[dcalton51]

Yes, I cleaned it with the MAF cleaner and pluged it back in. I have had this starting trouble before I cleaned the MAF, Throttle body and everything though.
It began to start hard about 3 weeks after the cold air intake was put on. I thought maybe, some of the air filter oil had gotten on the MAF sensor is why I cleaned it. (which did not help)

[wrightz28]

Ok cool, lots of folks like to just let the sensor hang there and think everything will be fine. It does sound however to be like a good culpret to the problem tho, when they act up, this is what they'll do.

[dcalton51]

I got it scanned today, here are the results:
Bad MAF sensor, Bad EGR, and Bad purge.

Can I just unplug the EGR?

I figure I will just take off all the purge stuff and put vacum caps on the lines. I also plan to replace the MAF.

Does this sound like the right steps to fix this junk?

[Morley]

EGR's are known to go bad on the LT1, they rust out. However, if you just deleat it you will still get a SES. You can't just cap off the cannister purge system, those vapors HAVE to go somewhere. Some people route the hose down along the fender wall and behind the wheel. Remember gasoline vapors are explosive so whatever you do keep it away from potential ignition sources.
Are they absolutely sure the MAF is bad? A MAf code means there is a fault in the system, not always with the MAF itself. Do you know someone with the same car/engine that you could "borrow" a MAF from for a test run?

[dcalton51]

No I don't have a MAF to borrow but I just bought one cheap off ebay.
I think it will be cheaper to just scrap the EGR and AIR systems and have them tuned out. I looked up the egr valve and its $70. I can get a tune which would add 30hp and a block off kit for the EGR for $110.

What should I do about the EVAP? The scanner just told me (Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Circuit). I plan to take it off tomorrow and blow out the solenoid and the line back to the canister.
Is that whats most likely to be wrong with it?(a bad solenoid)