91 lumina euro 3.1 dies making right turn?

[kbeeper69]

my car has been acting weird ,a fewweeks ago it died while making a right hand turn.figured it was just cold. it started right back up fine. 2 days later it died at work again right hand turn, started right back up. next day same thing.now my wife took the car for gas and to the store well it stalled while making the right turn,only now it wont start up .the car has 160,000 on it . the crank pos. sensor was replaced before i bought it. checked fuses all fine what is going on with it ?

[maxwedge]

Check fuel pressure, this can be caused by a dying fuel pump.

[kbeeper69]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Check fuel pressure, this can be caused by a dying fuel pump.

have fuel pressure .question,would you get spark from the coils if the crank pos. sensor was bad?

[maxwedge]

No, no injector pulse or spark, if the crank sensor is bad. Try and get a scanner on it see if you have cranking rpms, if none usually indicates bad connections at the sensor or icm or the cps itself.

[meistermind]

Sounds like an electrical-electronic problem. Especially if it runs fine after starting back up. Sometimes electrical problems start as a intermittent problem that makes the car die out as if you just turned the key off. Sometimes you can start the car back up right away or after a short amount of time. As it gets worse, it happens more often and it takes longer to start the car again. Usually electrical items fail after they have run for a period of time and get hot, but the problem can come sooner and more often until failing completlely.

A fuel pump can do this also- fail after running awhile. I've had luck trouble shooting these items by letting the car heat up real good and run until fails in the driveway or drive around the block. I know its hard to troubleshoot something that aint broke. If you suspect an ignition part, then sometimes you can lighty tap on the part to make it fail or "fix" it. Or better blow on the failed hot part with an air hose to rapidly cool it down- then see if it starts back up (I once troubleshot a bad Crank Pos sensor this way). This works great to trouble shoot ignition parts. Could be an Ignition Module (under the coils), Crank Position Sensor, ECM (computer). I know that NAPA and some other auto store have good equipment to test many of these modules if you take them out and bring them in.

I had my Ignition Module fail this way... It crapped out once and started right back up fifteen minutes later. No problem for two weeks, then it crapped out again and wouldn't start for 3-4 hours. Ran great for a week and crapped out- wouldn't start until the next day. I brought it home and let it run in the driveway for about an hour and it crapped out for good- no more start period. I kinda suspected it because of the symptoms, so I took it to NAPA and they confirmed it on their tester. A new one fixed it for about $90.

Good Luck!!

[kbeeper69]

Originally Posted by meistermind

Sounds like an electrical-electronic problem. Especially if it runs fine after starting back up. Sometimes electrical problems start as a intermittent problem that makes the car die out as if you just turned the key off. Sometimes you can start the car back up right away or after a short amount of time. As it gets worse, it happens more often and it takes longer to start the car again. Usually electrical items fail after they have run for a period of time and get hot, but the problem can come sooner and more often until failing completlely.

A fuel pump can do this also- fail after running awhile. I've had luck trouble shooting these items by letting the car heat up real good and run until fails in the driveway or drive around the block. I know its hard to troubleshoot something that aint broke. If you suspect an ignition part, then sometimes you can lighty tap on the part to make it fail or "fix" it. Or better blow on the failed hot part with an air hose to rapidly cool it down- then see if it starts back up (I once troubleshot a bad Crank Pos sensor this way). This works great to trouble shoot ignition parts. Could be an Ignition Module (under the coils), Crank Position Sensor, ECM (computer). I know that NAPA and some other auto store have good equipment to test many of these modules if you take them out and bring them in.

I had my Ignition Module fail this way... It crapped out once and started right back up fifteen minutes later. No problem for two weeks, then it crapped out again and wouldn't start for 3-4 hours. Ran great for a week and crapped out- wouldn't start until the next day. I brought it home and let it run in the driveway for about an hour and it crapped out for good- no more start period. I kinda suspected it because of the symptoms, so I took it to NAPA and they confirmed it on their tester. A new one fixed it for about $90.

Good Luck!!

changed crank pos sensor,started right up left it run ,shut down ,started right up. let sit over night,started up in morning,stalled and now wont start again.

[meistermind]

My moneys on the Ignition Module, although the Crank sensor was a good posibility. Unless you think you got a bad crank sensor or the connector came loose or fell off since you replaced it. The car would still run crappy if one coil took a hit. The Crank sensor, Ign Mod, and ECM can all kill the engine as you describe, and then start up again like no problem.

The crank sensor signal goes to the Igniton Module. The Ignition Module drives the coils (spark). The Ignition Module is a flat pack about 4x8 in. directly underneath the coils. Its prone to failure over time due to heat, and this one is located up against the engine to the right of the starter. There's three connectors going to it: I believe Crank sensor, power, ECM signal. A shop can hook up to it while on the car and test it, or you can take it off and take it to NAPA or other good parts store. The Ign modules are not that uncommon of a failure on these higher mileage motors.

The ECM (Elecetronic Control Module, computer) is another possibility, but I think less likely due to its location up under the passengers side dashboard. This can also be tested if removed. If you decide to replace it, remember to switch over the EEPROM card from the old to the new ECM. The EEPROM contains the specific intruction for your make of car (timing advance, tranny shift points, etc.).

Not too much for either part considering the cost for a shop just to look at your car. The ECM is usually an exchange-core item.

Ignition Module shown Here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=194&ptset=A

ECM shown Here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=248&ptset=A


Good Luck!!

[kbeeper69]

Originally Posted by meistermind

My moneys on the Ignition Module, although the Crank sensor was a good posibility. Unless you think you got a bad crank sensor or the connector came loose or fell off since you replaced it. The car would still run crappy if one coil took a hit. The Crank sensor, Ign Mod, and ECM can all kill the engine as you describe, and then start up again like no problem.

The crank sensor signal goes to the Igniton Module. The Ignition Module drives the coils (spark). The Ignition Module is a flat pack about 4x8 in. directly underneath the coils. Its prone to failure over time due to heat, and this one is located up against the engine to the right of the starter. There's three connectors going to it: I believe Crank sensor, power, ECM signal. A shop can hook up to it while on the car and test it, or you can take it off and take it to NAPA or other good parts store. The Ign modules are not that uncommon of a failure on these higher mileage motors.

The ECM (Elecetronic Control Module, computer) is another possibility, but I think less likely due to its location up under the passengers side dashboard. This can also be tested if removed. If you decide to replace it, remember to switch over the EEPROM card from the old to the new ECM. The EEPROM contains the specific intruction for your make of car (timing advance, tranny shift points, etc.).

Not too much for either part considering the cost for a shop just to look at your car. The ECM is usually an exchange-core item.

Ignition Module shown Here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=194&ptset=A

ECM shown Here:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=248&ptset=A


Good Luck!!

WELL I FOUND THE PROBLEM,IT WAS THE HARNESS GOING FROM THE CRANK SENSOR TO THE ING. MODULE. thanks for all the help with this problem.