91' Niety Eight sputters then dies

[ddiaz]

I could be just drivung along all of the sudden she might sputter a little "service engine soon" light comes on and shes dead. Sometime she starts right back up other times she makes me wait a little bit. Can anyone please help? It's really annoying!

[Alibi]

More info needed here. We need the exact trouble codes that are being set by the computer. If you dont' know how to pull them yourself, then go to Autozone and they'll do it for your for free. Also, at what speeds does the engine start to cut out? 55-65 MPH range, by any chance?

It looks like your problem is heat-related. The most common parts to go out at operating temps are the crank sensor and the coils. But...we need the codes to narrow it down.

[ddiaz]

It does not stall out at any specific speed or speed range. I could be sitting idl at a light or in park. I havent done any code yet but if thats what the next step is I will do it. I just thought that someone might have had the same experience or if it is comon in this car. thanks for your advice anymore guidance would be greatly apperciated.

[Alibi]

Ok, does the engine idle rough? When was the last time any maintenace work was done on the car? Plugs (ac delcos only), wires (no cheapies), PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, vacuum hoses, O2 sensor, oil, tranny fluid/filter, bottle of injector cleaner (chevron techron, seafoam, or lucas are great brands), and cleaning the intake are all your general maintenance jobs.

It could be as simple as a fouled plug(s). Still, get the codes from Autozone or, if you like, I or someone else could post a link to show you how to pull codes yourself as it is really easy and only needs a mangled paperclip to do it.

[nrages]

THe same exact thing happens to my '91 98!

Every time so far we've been to an auto repair shop, they can't find the problem...

I am starting to wonder if there is some clog in the fuel pipe? This doesn't happen to me in the mornings, and my car is parked in a slanted driveway overnight. But it happens to me when I leave work in the afternoons. I already know that the way the car is slanted has to do with how much gas shows in the gauge. So, perhaps this is related to this problem?

Also, when my car sputters and dies, it smells HEAVILY of gas...and sometimes it seems as if there is less gas in the car after I restart it.

If anyone can help, PLEASE HELP, because this is driving me crazy, and I am about to take it to a dealer to see what is wrong...and I REALLY don't want to do that!

[nrages]

Also, after the same thing has been happening to my car for several months, all of a sudden it gives a message "PASS KEY MALFUNCTION"

I have no idea what this is. And I dont' know a whole lot about cars. I just want to get my car fixed without some auto repair place ripping me off. I want to know what is wrong with my car BEFORE I go to a shop.

Thank you

[Alibi]

Codes???? This is the very first item to check as it will often lead you in the right direction.

I seriously doubt that the fuel lines are clogged, unless the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a while. The angle of the car will only affect the flow of fuel if it is low on fuel (very low).

What about recent maintenaice work (or lack thereof)? Plugs, wires, filters, oil, tranny fluid/filter, etc.?

As for the gas smell, your engine is probably running too rich (which could be caused by a variety of issues). We need codes though otherwise it would just be guess after guess.

Edit: http://lesabret.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1201 How to pull your own codes. Do it. Now. It is really really easy. Too easy not to do.

[ddiaz]

You can only pull codes if your check engine light is on. Otherwise there is nothing flaging the computer to pull a code from. I just changed the fuel pressure regulator and it is still doing the same crap. Help!!!!!

signed,
frustrated

[Alibi]

Originally Posted by ddiaz

You can only pull codes if your check engine light is on. Otherwise there is nothing flaging the computer to pull a code from. I just changed the fuel pressure regulator and it is still doing the same crap. Help!!!!!

signed,
frustrated

Not true. The ECM will store codes, but not show the SES light on the dash while others will be stored but also kick on the SES light on the dash.

You can still try the paperclip trick (only works on OBD1 cars tho, 94 was a mix of 1 and 2) and see if any codes show up.

If I were you, I'd check the coils, the ICM (Ignition control module, Autozone can test for free), and next the Crank sensor. The next time it dies, try to pour some cool water onto the crank sensor. If it starts right up, then that is your issue.

[ddiaz]

thanksgive those a try I wil let you know.

[ddiaz]

Good news!!!!!!!!! I took out the ignition control module and replaced with a new one. Car is running like a champ now.
thanks for your help.
Me very happy now!!!!!!!!

[nrages]

Hmmmm ICM huh? I will have to check that out.

we are convinced that it is the Coil pack for our car.

we tried the paperclip thing and it didn't work!! Went to Autozone and they were out of those keys!! go figure

We have recently changed the spark plugs and wires, and then it seemed to work for a while...then it went back to doing the same thing. So, we are thinking it must be the coil pack.

Also, it happens more when my car is slanted downwards! Perhaps it is putting too much pressure on the coil pack? Because overnight, the car is parked slanted upwards, and the car never cuts off on me on the way to work. But on the way home, it would always cut off. So, I started backing in to my parking at work, and it actually gives me less problems. So, I figure it must have something to do with the pressure.

I will get to the bottom of this!!! Thanks to everyone for ALL your help!!!

[nrages]

We took the car to the mechanic. They could not pull the codes. They did extra stuff to try to pull the codes (I don't know what specifically), but basically, it can't be done!!

The car had gotten so bad that it would shake all the time while driving. The mechanics adjusted the timing, and now it rides much smoother. HOwever, the check engine light still comes on at least once per trip. It has cut off twice and sputters every now and then. Much better than before. Before, it would cut off several times a day.

We don't know if the car needs a ICM or coil pack. The mechanic said the coil pack would cost $700 to replace, and take a few days. I just don't want to send it to them, and then the ICM needs to be replaced too.

Now, the angle of the car doesn't seem to be important, but before the timing was adjusted, the car needed to be parked while slanted upwards. If I parked either straight, or slanted down, the car would definitely cut off while driving.

[tri-power]

I'll try to make this as brief and as descriptive as I can.

PASS Key issue has to do with the anti-theft mechanism. Usually it's located under the dash. First thing to try is cleaning the contacts of the key around the chip. If that doesn't solve the problem, try replacing the lock cylinder with a new one. Remember this will require that you have the key reprogrammed by a dealer. If that fails, then you need to replace the PASS key controller. Last I heard, they ran roughly $200.

For the codes issue. Codes are stored in the computer for a period of time after the issue is resolved, unless you reset the computer by killing the battery power. To pull the codes from this year car, you only need to take a paper clip and jump the upper right terminals on the diagnostic port. It will always read code 12 at the beginning and end if the diagnostic sequence, and each code will flash three times before reading another code. If you can't get a code 12 to come up, you might need to replace the ECM.

To tell wether you have an issue with the ICM or coil pack, test the wires. Each coil pack is actuall three seperate packs in one. If you find a dead cylinder in a spark test, the other plug on that particular coil will also be dead. If you find that none of the coils are sparking, then you should replace the ICM. You can usually go to a junkyard and get the pair for about $70. For most people, it's usually easier to replace them as one unit instead of making sure the wires beneath the coil pack are properly routed.

[tedcopeland]

I am working on a friends 91 Regency Elite. It has a stalling problem and no codes. I have found a small black plastic box located on the drivers side top of the engine. It has three vaccuum lines going to it. They are all very brittle and leaking. When the car is running and in Park, try pumping the brakes, pushing hard to the floor. Does the engine start to run rough? This one does...