89 z24 2.8 litre engine swap
bikeslutz24
04-23-2003, 12:56 AM
Hey I have a 89 z24 2.8 litre engie (automatic) and its got 250,000 kms think its time for a new engine.. the body is ok and i have put to much money into other parts for this thing. my parents have a 91 cav rs with a 3.1 litre (5 speed) with 112,000 clicks on it.. can i swap these engines and trannys? any ideas?
Pikachoo
04-23-2003, 07:28 AM
The engine swap is no problem, because the 3.1l is the exact same motor with just a longer stroke.
For the tranny, I borrowed this info from another site:
How to convert a 1988-1990 automatic transaxle Cavalier V6 to manual gearbox
These instructions were provided and are copyrighted by Tim, scabby_onealy@hotmail.com
All questions or comments should be directed to him.
Tools:
Metric wrench set including 5.5mm, 7mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, 33mm wrenches, Metric socket set including same, in short and deep, 2’, 4’, 6’ extensions for socket set, Swivel sockets, Break-over bar, pipe to break-over wrenches, Torx screwdriver set, standard and Phillips screwdriver set, razor, no less than four (4) jack stands, hole saw, crowbar or pry bar, flashlight, penlight, magnet on string (in case of lost bolts).
Parts Necessary:
Getrag-Muncie 5 speed, shift cables, cable-mounting hardware (inc. firewall plate and gasket), manual shifter, shifter boot ring and knob, manual-transaxle center console upper piece and braces, manual transaxle driver’s side lower and center dash, manual transaxle ignition module (on steering column), manual transaxle engine wiring harness and computer, flywheel, clutch, manual transaxle brake pedal and clutch pedal, clutch slave and master cylinders and hardware, passenger side chassis support, manual transmission radiator, and manual transmission half-shafts.
All directions (front, rear, left, right) are from driver’s seat perspective. Keep ALL removed hardware, as it may be needed later! Label bolts, you don’t want to have to run to the hardware store or salvage yard to replace ones you lost, didn’t label, or mis-labeled. Be smart about this, don’t litter, keep containers handy in case of fluid spill or leakage, and contain biohazards. About half way through, you will begin to hate your car and yourself, as well as having serious doubts about the reasoning behind doing this. You will question your commitment, the quality of the car, your mother’s pedigree, and the size of your genitals. This will pass. Probably.
Before you begin!
Make a pattern of the clutch master cylinder cutout with cardboard, fiberglass, or however you wish. Make it accurate. This is IMPORTANT! I cannot impress this enough. Without a correct pattern, you will not be able to mount your clutch pedal properly. It should rest with the upper point in the cradle under the dash.
Park vehicle on flat, paved - and preferably covered - surface with room to work.
Apply the handbrake, block the rear tires, and loosen lug nuts from both front wheels.
Jack vehicle and remove driver and passenger side half-shafts, per maintenance book instructions. Place jacks at front and rear of chassis support on passenger side and at front-right and behind chassis support on driver’s side. Lower vehicle to jacks and shake violently to ensure stability. If it wobbles, FIX THE WOBBLE before getting under it!!!!!
Remove passenger side chassis support and replace with manual (non-strut) version in the same manner that the original was removed.[2] Remove driver’s side chassis support as you had removed the passenger’s side.
Open the driver’s door, pop the hood, unbolt and remove the hood[3] as well as upper strut brace (if so equipped). Removing the hood is not necessary, but will make the job easier.
Remove grille, headlights, headlight supports, bumper cover, bumper, and trim.
Disconnect the battery and remove. Also remove the battery tray and supports.
Remove the air intake tubing, box, filter, mounting hardware, etc., taking care to disconnect all plugs without breaking them. Years of heat and abuse have made them brittle. You don’t want to have to buy a new one and splice it in later. Remove the exhaust piece that goes over the transaxle for ease. Remove the throttle body and disconnect the associated vacuum lines.
Disconnect and remove the engine fan, and mounting hardware. Disconnect, drain, and remove the radiator, including transmission coolant lines. Drain transmission of all possible fluid. Gently maneuver air conditioning unit to the side, be careful not to loosen, disconnect, bend, or break any tubing. If you want to remove your A/C system, now is the time to do it.
Disconnect and remove the engine wiring harness, making note of how and where it connects, and how and where it is routed[4]. You may need a razor to remove the putty holding it to the rear, passenger’s side of the bay where it passes into the passenger compartment.
Disconnect and set aside the starter motor. Remove the access panels below and behind the starter motor.
Remove spark plugs and wires; disconnect speedometer cable from passenger end of transaxle. Remove all other wires, connections, cables, etc. (for example, VSS cable), from transaxle, as you would normally do to remove transaxle. Follow instructions in maintenance book for more detail.
Use a crowbar or other such implements to rotate the flex plate in order to remove the torque converter attachment bolts.
Place braces or jacks under the engine to hold it in place. Place engine hoist chain around transaxle and secure.
Remove bolts securing transaxle to engine, remove transaxle to chassis mounts and hardware. Ensure rear (firewall) transaxle mounts and hardware have been removed.
Remove slack from engine hoist chain. Gently pry transaxle from engine while slowly maneuvering transaxle outwards from engine and to the floor. Once transaxle is removed, drain remaining fluids.
Make sure that the vehicle is still steady, then open the door and get in. Remove under-dash panels, center console, glove box, and computer. Disconnect remainder of engine bay wiring from interior (above the glovebox and behind the computer) and remove wiring harness from vehicle. Disconnect cabling from shift mechanism (via metal clips on collar), unbolt and remove shift mechanism.
Remove steering wheel center cap, remove steering wheel and set aside. Unbolt steering column supports to lower column and enable dash pod removal. Reach behind dash pod and disconnect speedometer cable. Set dash pod aside. Now is a good time to clean and detail your gauges.
Unbolt your automatic transaxle brake pedal and replace with manual brake pedal, which is narrower.
Remove speedometer cable from vehicle. Use penlight to look behind steering column and disconnect ignition module. Note how ignition module is connected![5] Also remove the neutral safety switch cabling.
Whew! Almost there. Unless you’ve missed something , all automatic-related stuff is out of the vehicle. The previous stripping should have taken from 2 hours to a day, depending on how good you are. Now it’s time to put your manual in! This should take from 8 hours to 12 hours, longer (much longer) if you’re inexperienced. When I did it, I had never done this on a car before, and it took a week of two to four-hour days to strip the car, and a week of the same to rebuild the car.
Intermission. Now is a good time to mount new ignition coils, wires, and spark plugs, engine mounts, suspension goodies, throttle bodies, various power goodies, replace bad sending units, et cetera et cetera as well as flush coolant system and radiator, change oil and filter, top off wiper fluid, replace brake and power steering fluid, and watch the Cosby show. Seriously though, take a few hours break. If you’ve made it this far, you deserve a beer and a pat on the back.
Mount clutch master cylinder pattern to firewall and use hole-saw to bore hold through firewall of the correct size and placement. Do not forget to drill holes for mounting bolts.
Attach flywheel to engine. Attach clutch and plate to flywheel. Attach gearbox to engine hoist. Raise and attach gearbox to engine following maintenance manual’s instructions.
Thread clutch master cylinder through hole in firewall, mount clutch pedal on other side. Check placement for throw and angle. When satisfied, bolt in place. DO NOT press clutch pedal while attached to master cylinder, but unattached to gearbox. Destruction of the clutch slave cylinder will result. Replacement, new, is about $75.
Thread speedometer cable through firewall and attach to top, driver’s side of transmission. Replace transaxle to engine bay mounts. Check and tighten engine to engine-bay mounts. If sound, remove support from under engine.
Replace manual transmission throttle body and reattach vacuum lines. Replace exhaust down-pipe. Rout shift cables through firewall, attaching plate and rubber grommet. Attach to shift mechanisms, tighten all bolts, and make sure they are secure.
Rout and attach clutch slave cylinder to gearbox. Reattach battery tray. Re-mount starter to engine. Replace all transmission plates and covers.
Rout manual transmission wiring harness and attach to all points. This will not be fun. Endure, good man. Endure. Rout end of wiring harness through firewall and reattach to computer et al wiring. Replace glove box.
Replace radiator, air conditioning unit, and fan. Check all connections and refill radiator, reconnect fan, etc.
Check engine bay for loose or missing connections, replace all other engine bay parts (battery, intake hose, mounting hardware), replace hood, grille, headlights and supports, bumper, and bumper cover.
Check under and behind engine to make sure all bracing, mounting hardware, connections, etc., are correct and secure. When finished replace hood.
Replace driver’s side chassis support and both half-shafts, fill gearbox with fluid, brake rotors and cylinders, wheels, lugs, etc. Do not fill transmission without the half shafts attached or you’ve just wasted about $20, as well as causing a superfund site.
Even if you think the mechanical side is finished, go over your car again! Leave nothing to chance! Make sure ALL connections are secured and connected, etc., don’t just think they are, make sure they are! It’s no one’s fault but your own if something’s messed up.
Remove vehicle from jack-stands and lower to ground.
Get back inside vehicle, mount shift mechanism and attach cables. Check throw to make sure the gears work. Attach console braces and console, along with boot, trim, and knob.
Connect manual gearbox ignition module, attach speedometer cable to dash pod, re-mount dash pod, re-mount steering column supports, replace mid- and lower-dash covers.
Check all chassis to engine and wiring harness grounds and leads, replace battery. Check accessories to ensure functionality.
Start engine. Check brake and clutch pedal pressure. Check gas pedal functionality. Run through computer-learning routine.
Check everything again! Things to look out for: Driver’s and passenger’s side outer CV boot clearance over chassis support, loose bolts, and missing connections.
If everything checks out okay, carefully drive vehicle around the block or up and down the road for about 30 minutes, making sure everything works and noting suspicious noises.
Go to flat, empty stretch of road, rev engine to 5 grand while holding clutch, place shifter in first, dump clutch, and squeal with glee as tires spin through 1st, on through 2nd, and catch late in 3rd gear right before you have to shift to 4th.
En-FUCKING-joy your new gearbox! You’re gonna love it!!!
Things to watch out for:
A used manual may have bad synchros. It is advisable to rebuild your 5-speed before putting it in the vehicle.
A ticking noise emanating from the passenger side of the vehicle while accelerating or going over a bump is likely caused by your CV joint contacting your chassis support. Check clearance and reposition the support.
Using a different year donor vehicle may result in such things as: nonfunctional A/C (due to a repositioned pins in the computer and/or different high/low sensors), your vehicle dying at idle (due to a repositioned VSS pin in the computer) and other such problems. It is advisable to use a wiring harness and computer from the same year as your car.
Thus ends our long, arduous journey to a manual transmission. If anything is found to be incorrect or absent in this instructions list, please notify me so that I can make the proper changes and corrections. Please, above all else, be safe, and enjoy your rejuvenated car!
I may be contacted at homer@micoks.net or scabby_onealy@hotmail.com. If you wish to duplicate or post this document, you may do so after notifying me at the above addresses. No copies or postings will be allowed that do not include credit to the author (myself) and the necessary disclaimers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[1] Instructions not guaranteed. Proceed at own risk. Use proper caution and safety precautions. Instructions are good only for 1990 automatic receiving 1989 Getrag-Muncie 5 speed. Other applications may easily be extrapolated, but are not guaranteed to work.
[2] I did not replace the support immediately and I fear I suffered from chassis flex/stretch because of this. Do not make my mistake.
[3] Many of these directions are unnecessary or common sense, and can be ignored. Such things as removing the half-shafts right away, removing the hood, removing the passenger side chassis support, removing the headlights, grille, bumper and cover, etc., are included for ease, not necessity. Use good judgment.
[4] If you are using a new or custom harness this is certainly important. A used harness, however, should shape itself to the bay naturally with little guidance. Few plugs are the same, and the ones that are reside in different areas of the bay. Still, take notice.
[5] For all my hassling, my ignition key now works backward. I think, perhaps, that automatic and manual ignition modules are reversed. I don’t know. I haven’t really looked into it; it’s not too irritating. However, if you know how to correct this, please contact me at homer@micoks.net.
For the tranny, I borrowed this info from another site:
How to convert a 1988-1990 automatic transaxle Cavalier V6 to manual gearbox
These instructions were provided and are copyrighted by Tim, scabby_onealy@hotmail.com
All questions or comments should be directed to him.
Tools:
Metric wrench set including 5.5mm, 7mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, 33mm wrenches, Metric socket set including same, in short and deep, 2’, 4’, 6’ extensions for socket set, Swivel sockets, Break-over bar, pipe to break-over wrenches, Torx screwdriver set, standard and Phillips screwdriver set, razor, no less than four (4) jack stands, hole saw, crowbar or pry bar, flashlight, penlight, magnet on string (in case of lost bolts).
Parts Necessary:
Getrag-Muncie 5 speed, shift cables, cable-mounting hardware (inc. firewall plate and gasket), manual shifter, shifter boot ring and knob, manual-transaxle center console upper piece and braces, manual transaxle driver’s side lower and center dash, manual transaxle ignition module (on steering column), manual transaxle engine wiring harness and computer, flywheel, clutch, manual transaxle brake pedal and clutch pedal, clutch slave and master cylinders and hardware, passenger side chassis support, manual transmission radiator, and manual transmission half-shafts.
All directions (front, rear, left, right) are from driver’s seat perspective. Keep ALL removed hardware, as it may be needed later! Label bolts, you don’t want to have to run to the hardware store or salvage yard to replace ones you lost, didn’t label, or mis-labeled. Be smart about this, don’t litter, keep containers handy in case of fluid spill or leakage, and contain biohazards. About half way through, you will begin to hate your car and yourself, as well as having serious doubts about the reasoning behind doing this. You will question your commitment, the quality of the car, your mother’s pedigree, and the size of your genitals. This will pass. Probably.
Before you begin!
Make a pattern of the clutch master cylinder cutout with cardboard, fiberglass, or however you wish. Make it accurate. This is IMPORTANT! I cannot impress this enough. Without a correct pattern, you will not be able to mount your clutch pedal properly. It should rest with the upper point in the cradle under the dash.
Park vehicle on flat, paved - and preferably covered - surface with room to work.
Apply the handbrake, block the rear tires, and loosen lug nuts from both front wheels.
Jack vehicle and remove driver and passenger side half-shafts, per maintenance book instructions. Place jacks at front and rear of chassis support on passenger side and at front-right and behind chassis support on driver’s side. Lower vehicle to jacks and shake violently to ensure stability. If it wobbles, FIX THE WOBBLE before getting under it!!!!!
Remove passenger side chassis support and replace with manual (non-strut) version in the same manner that the original was removed.[2] Remove driver’s side chassis support as you had removed the passenger’s side.
Open the driver’s door, pop the hood, unbolt and remove the hood[3] as well as upper strut brace (if so equipped). Removing the hood is not necessary, but will make the job easier.
Remove grille, headlights, headlight supports, bumper cover, bumper, and trim.
Disconnect the battery and remove. Also remove the battery tray and supports.
Remove the air intake tubing, box, filter, mounting hardware, etc., taking care to disconnect all plugs without breaking them. Years of heat and abuse have made them brittle. You don’t want to have to buy a new one and splice it in later. Remove the exhaust piece that goes over the transaxle for ease. Remove the throttle body and disconnect the associated vacuum lines.
Disconnect and remove the engine fan, and mounting hardware. Disconnect, drain, and remove the radiator, including transmission coolant lines. Drain transmission of all possible fluid. Gently maneuver air conditioning unit to the side, be careful not to loosen, disconnect, bend, or break any tubing. If you want to remove your A/C system, now is the time to do it.
Disconnect and remove the engine wiring harness, making note of how and where it connects, and how and where it is routed[4]. You may need a razor to remove the putty holding it to the rear, passenger’s side of the bay where it passes into the passenger compartment.
Disconnect and set aside the starter motor. Remove the access panels below and behind the starter motor.
Remove spark plugs and wires; disconnect speedometer cable from passenger end of transaxle. Remove all other wires, connections, cables, etc. (for example, VSS cable), from transaxle, as you would normally do to remove transaxle. Follow instructions in maintenance book for more detail.
Use a crowbar or other such implements to rotate the flex plate in order to remove the torque converter attachment bolts.
Place braces or jacks under the engine to hold it in place. Place engine hoist chain around transaxle and secure.
Remove bolts securing transaxle to engine, remove transaxle to chassis mounts and hardware. Ensure rear (firewall) transaxle mounts and hardware have been removed.
Remove slack from engine hoist chain. Gently pry transaxle from engine while slowly maneuvering transaxle outwards from engine and to the floor. Once transaxle is removed, drain remaining fluids.
Make sure that the vehicle is still steady, then open the door and get in. Remove under-dash panels, center console, glove box, and computer. Disconnect remainder of engine bay wiring from interior (above the glovebox and behind the computer) and remove wiring harness from vehicle. Disconnect cabling from shift mechanism (via metal clips on collar), unbolt and remove shift mechanism.
Remove steering wheel center cap, remove steering wheel and set aside. Unbolt steering column supports to lower column and enable dash pod removal. Reach behind dash pod and disconnect speedometer cable. Set dash pod aside. Now is a good time to clean and detail your gauges.
Unbolt your automatic transaxle brake pedal and replace with manual brake pedal, which is narrower.
Remove speedometer cable from vehicle. Use penlight to look behind steering column and disconnect ignition module. Note how ignition module is connected![5] Also remove the neutral safety switch cabling.
Whew! Almost there. Unless you’ve missed something , all automatic-related stuff is out of the vehicle. The previous stripping should have taken from 2 hours to a day, depending on how good you are. Now it’s time to put your manual in! This should take from 8 hours to 12 hours, longer (much longer) if you’re inexperienced. When I did it, I had never done this on a car before, and it took a week of two to four-hour days to strip the car, and a week of the same to rebuild the car.
Intermission. Now is a good time to mount new ignition coils, wires, and spark plugs, engine mounts, suspension goodies, throttle bodies, various power goodies, replace bad sending units, et cetera et cetera as well as flush coolant system and radiator, change oil and filter, top off wiper fluid, replace brake and power steering fluid, and watch the Cosby show. Seriously though, take a few hours break. If you’ve made it this far, you deserve a beer and a pat on the back.
Mount clutch master cylinder pattern to firewall and use hole-saw to bore hold through firewall of the correct size and placement. Do not forget to drill holes for mounting bolts.
Attach flywheel to engine. Attach clutch and plate to flywheel. Attach gearbox to engine hoist. Raise and attach gearbox to engine following maintenance manual’s instructions.
Thread clutch master cylinder through hole in firewall, mount clutch pedal on other side. Check placement for throw and angle. When satisfied, bolt in place. DO NOT press clutch pedal while attached to master cylinder, but unattached to gearbox. Destruction of the clutch slave cylinder will result. Replacement, new, is about $75.
Thread speedometer cable through firewall and attach to top, driver’s side of transmission. Replace transaxle to engine bay mounts. Check and tighten engine to engine-bay mounts. If sound, remove support from under engine.
Replace manual transmission throttle body and reattach vacuum lines. Replace exhaust down-pipe. Rout shift cables through firewall, attaching plate and rubber grommet. Attach to shift mechanisms, tighten all bolts, and make sure they are secure.
Rout and attach clutch slave cylinder to gearbox. Reattach battery tray. Re-mount starter to engine. Replace all transmission plates and covers.
Rout manual transmission wiring harness and attach to all points. This will not be fun. Endure, good man. Endure. Rout end of wiring harness through firewall and reattach to computer et al wiring. Replace glove box.
Replace radiator, air conditioning unit, and fan. Check all connections and refill radiator, reconnect fan, etc.
Check engine bay for loose or missing connections, replace all other engine bay parts (battery, intake hose, mounting hardware), replace hood, grille, headlights and supports, bumper, and bumper cover.
Check under and behind engine to make sure all bracing, mounting hardware, connections, etc., are correct and secure. When finished replace hood.
Replace driver’s side chassis support and both half-shafts, fill gearbox with fluid, brake rotors and cylinders, wheels, lugs, etc. Do not fill transmission without the half shafts attached or you’ve just wasted about $20, as well as causing a superfund site.
Even if you think the mechanical side is finished, go over your car again! Leave nothing to chance! Make sure ALL connections are secured and connected, etc., don’t just think they are, make sure they are! It’s no one’s fault but your own if something’s messed up.
Remove vehicle from jack-stands and lower to ground.
Get back inside vehicle, mount shift mechanism and attach cables. Check throw to make sure the gears work. Attach console braces and console, along with boot, trim, and knob.
Connect manual gearbox ignition module, attach speedometer cable to dash pod, re-mount dash pod, re-mount steering column supports, replace mid- and lower-dash covers.
Check all chassis to engine and wiring harness grounds and leads, replace battery. Check accessories to ensure functionality.
Start engine. Check brake and clutch pedal pressure. Check gas pedal functionality. Run through computer-learning routine.
Check everything again! Things to look out for: Driver’s and passenger’s side outer CV boot clearance over chassis support, loose bolts, and missing connections.
If everything checks out okay, carefully drive vehicle around the block or up and down the road for about 30 minutes, making sure everything works and noting suspicious noises.
Go to flat, empty stretch of road, rev engine to 5 grand while holding clutch, place shifter in first, dump clutch, and squeal with glee as tires spin through 1st, on through 2nd, and catch late in 3rd gear right before you have to shift to 4th.
En-FUCKING-joy your new gearbox! You’re gonna love it!!!
Things to watch out for:
A used manual may have bad synchros. It is advisable to rebuild your 5-speed before putting it in the vehicle.
A ticking noise emanating from the passenger side of the vehicle while accelerating or going over a bump is likely caused by your CV joint contacting your chassis support. Check clearance and reposition the support.
Using a different year donor vehicle may result in such things as: nonfunctional A/C (due to a repositioned pins in the computer and/or different high/low sensors), your vehicle dying at idle (due to a repositioned VSS pin in the computer) and other such problems. It is advisable to use a wiring harness and computer from the same year as your car.
Thus ends our long, arduous journey to a manual transmission. If anything is found to be incorrect or absent in this instructions list, please notify me so that I can make the proper changes and corrections. Please, above all else, be safe, and enjoy your rejuvenated car!
I may be contacted at homer@micoks.net or scabby_onealy@hotmail.com. If you wish to duplicate or post this document, you may do so after notifying me at the above addresses. No copies or postings will be allowed that do not include credit to the author (myself) and the necessary disclaimers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
[1] Instructions not guaranteed. Proceed at own risk. Use proper caution and safety precautions. Instructions are good only for 1990 automatic receiving 1989 Getrag-Muncie 5 speed. Other applications may easily be extrapolated, but are not guaranteed to work.
[2] I did not replace the support immediately and I fear I suffered from chassis flex/stretch because of this. Do not make my mistake.
[3] Many of these directions are unnecessary or common sense, and can be ignored. Such things as removing the half-shafts right away, removing the hood, removing the passenger side chassis support, removing the headlights, grille, bumper and cover, etc., are included for ease, not necessity. Use good judgment.
[4] If you are using a new or custom harness this is certainly important. A used harness, however, should shape itself to the bay naturally with little guidance. Few plugs are the same, and the ones that are reside in different areas of the bay. Still, take notice.
[5] For all my hassling, my ignition key now works backward. I think, perhaps, that automatic and manual ignition modules are reversed. I don’t know. I haven’t really looked into it; it’s not too irritating. However, if you know how to correct this, please contact me at homer@micoks.net.
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