Fuel Injectors and Spark Plugs for breakfast

Well my dustbuster has given me a second chance and my wife wants to know who 'Betty Blue' is!:screwy:

Just had a quick question about what the best way to get at the 'backside' fuel injectors and spark plugs.

Two of the injectors are just outside of the recomended ohms? As per the Haynes Manual. I pulled several from the junkyard my last trip and got the o-ring sets. At 70 sum dollars a piece I can hardly afford a hunt and peck mission but wanted some feed back from you guys on using these reclaimed injectors.

As for the plugs my former mechanic put new ones in just over two years ago but I am less than confident with his work.

Oh yeah..... I have a 95 Transport 3800 L series and she just doesn't seem to have the go-getum-ness. There seems to be an almost gurgling If I give it too much gas.

I read the great OBD debate of Christmas Day '09 and guess I'm going to have to break down and figure that out next even though my CEL is not currently on.

We take our bad injectors to a diesel shop for a good micro bath cleaning, new seals, and have the flow rate tested.

Before you get deep in the engine, try cleaning the mass air flow sensor. Remove the air intake plumbing, and spray sensor safe throttle body cleaner into the thottle body. Let it sit, start the engine, spray more all around.
as far as the rear bank of plugs..first clean the grunge from around them. Spread a blanket or something over the rad support, get a small stool because you have to lie atop the engine to get at them. I found I had to look at what I was up against by flashilight and mirror first, then went in by feel. A short piece of rubber hose placed over the top of the spark plug may be helpful in placing the plug in the hole and/or starting it
Jeff

Cleaned Throttle body in Sept. and checked MAF,TPS, and IAC. All seemed to be within parameters set by Haynes. Carbon build up on IAC and in Throttle body but it didn't appear to be excessive although I am not certain of what I should look for.
thanks for the tips, especially the rubber hose for positioning and starting.
What about the spark plug gaps? Do they need to be adjusted or can they straight from the package into the engine block?
Is there a definative way to figure out if each piston is firing without using the OBD?

The OBD II AutoScanner is our friend, the ECU/PCU will detect the misfire, and the
scanner will tell you which cylinder is failing.
P-codes works good with a Google search, do a google ''Trouble shoot JAG P1589'''

A trick we use on locomotives to check for an obvious weak cylinder is to start a cold engine and check the temps on each exhaust stack. Try running it 30 to 60 seconds, shut down and feel the exhasut manifold at each cylnder..with obvious care as they get quite hot quite fast, just lightly touch them. If you are changing the plugs, look at the condition, they should be a light tan/reddish colour, and consistent. They are gapped at 0.060" should be close out of the box but since they are a real PITA to change you might want to make absolutly sure before installing.
Jeff

This is the longest breakfast I've ever had!
Just getting around to my van due to a drunk driver that totaled my wife's 2001 stratus which led to getting a 1995 mercury villager. Brakes, plugs and time consuming research seem to have it running well.
Now it is time to get back to the 3800.
I purchased plugs when this was origionally posted but..........
The guide at Fleet Farm said Basic Champion plugs should be RS14YC6, confirmed this with Federal Mogul web site.........however.....Plugs that are currently in are AC DELCO something or other and they are shorter than the new plugs... plus the Specified Gap (as per HAYNES and under hood tag) should be .060 The gap on the only old plug I removed is less than .052????????
Am I an anal retentive idiot or just a DIY'selfer that is in over his head.
Went to you guys first because you are more reliable.
Please point me in the right direction.

I have used champions in chysler vehicles I have owned, and they performed well..but in several GM motors they were a disappointment..in one engine, they only lasted 5,000 KM. For that reason, I only use AC Delco plugs in my GM vehicles. Gap to .060, use a bit of anti-seize on the threads, change them every 50,000KM/30,000 miles, and you should be OK
Jeff

Thanks for getting back......I replaced plugs 4&6 because they were easiest....now I'm on my way to auto store to talk to those guys. Is there any explaination as to the spark plug length? Plugs I took out are Delco 41-601 and they are definately 1/16" to 1/32" shorter even without the gap or even taking that L-shaped piece into consideration. Being wrong is not new and I am familiar with productional variences (in a culinary setting) it just seems odd that this would be an acceptable varience for the automotive industry? HOWEVER it is getting late and I have at least 5 hours of frustration.......