Metalizer paints... what did I do wrong?

I wanted to try some Testors Metalizer paints on the Lotus Seven I'm building, and they came in last Friday... non-buffing Aluminum, non-buffing Steel, bottle of Sealer, and a bottle of thinner.

So I airbrushed the aluminum on at around 25psi... came out VERY easy, and very thin, right out of the bottle, even with the airbrush needle practically closed. I did light mist coats giving it a bit of time to dry between coats... 3-4 coats per part. But, it didn't really looks like it was worth the money. It basically just looked like Tamiya Acrylic "Flat Aluminum". I put the sealer on, thinking it would make it suddenly look better... and it still just looked like I had used Tamiya Flat Aluminum.

What exactly am I doing wrong? Does anybody have good instructions on how to get better results? Do I need to treat it like other paints and go back and give it a thick "wet coat" after the mist coats? I'm confused.

I prefer the buffing metalizers. I spray the sealer on before the color. Then after the color has dried 10 minutes I polish it lightly with a soft cloth. I know the sealer is supposed to go on over the color but it ruins the metal effect and turns it into silver paint. By putting it on under you improve the durability of the metal coat somewhat without ruining the effect. Also, make sure your using the right thinner.

I normally use the Buffing Metalizers in the spray can. I have had great success spraying parts with 1 to 2 coats. I put it on heavier than I would nearly any other paint because, it dries quickly and doesn't seem to pull away from the edges like other paints. Also, with a heavier coat the paint will be wetter and give a smoother, more even finish. I like most of their color range because it works well on motorcycle and racing car kits.

I follow the color with a quick buff and then sealer but, I am interested in trying the method CrateCruncher has mentioned.


Mark

I prefer the buffing metalizers. I spray the sealer on before the color. Then after the color has dried 10 minutes I polish it lightly with a soft cloth. I know the sealer is supposed to go on over the color but it ruins the metal effect and turns it into silver paint. By putting it on under you improve the durability of the metal coat somewhat without ruinning the effect. Also, make sure your using the right thinner.

Yeah, I'm using the right thinner.... stinks like you wouldn't believe!

I thought about buffing it even though it was the "non buffing" type.... and using a q-tip (because it happened to be in front of me) I managed to take off all the paint in no time at all. It DID shine up really nice just before the bare white plastic started shining through, though :)

I'll put a coat of sealer on tonight, followed by another coat of metalizer paint that I can buff and see if that makes the effect any better. Right now I just feel like I wasted the money on paint when I could have done regular old Tamiya acrylic for a lot less without nasty smelling sealers and thinners.

Yeah, I'm using the right thinner.... stinks like you wouldn't believe!

I thought about buffing it even though it was the "non buffing" type.... and using a q-tip (because it happened to be in front of me) I managed to take off all the paint in no time at all. It DID shine up really nice just before the bare white plastic started shining through, though :)

I'll put a coat of sealer on tonight, followed by another coat of metalizer paint that I can buff and see if that makes the effect any better. Right now I just feel like I wasted the money on paint when I could have done regular old Tamiya acrylic for a lot less without nasty smelling sealers and thinners.
You have not wasted your money. I can't figure out what you might be doing wrong, but the Model Master Metalizers are the best thing going for metal finishes. Did you prime the parts? I always do, but that may or may not be the cause of your problem. I have NEVER had these paints come off of parts, no matter how much handling or buffing. I strongly disagree with the statement that you could get the same thing with Tamiya's acrylic flat aluminum, which I also love but does not give the same effect. I've also never thinned the metalizers, so maybe that's part of the problem. And I only use the sealer when I want the effect it gives, which, of course, is different from the bare metalizer.

Stick with it. These paints really make plastic parts look like in-scale metal parts. No, I don't work for Testors, but I really, really like the metalizers.

You have not wasted your money. I can't figure out what you might be doing wrong, but the Model Master Metalizers are the best thing going for metal finishes. Did you prime the parts? I always do, but that may or may not be the cause of your problem. I have NEVER had these paints come off of parts, no matter how much handling or buffing. I strongly disagree with the statement that you could get the same thing with Tamiya's acrylic flat aluminum, which I also love but does not give the same effect. I've also never thinned the metalizers, so maybe that's part of the problem. And I only use the sealer when I want the effect it gives, which, of course, is different from the bare metalizer.

Stick with it. These paints really make plastic parts look like in-scale metal parts. No, I don't work for Testors, but I really, really like the metalizers.

I washed the parts before painting them with dish detergent and warm water to make sure there was no mold release or other surface contaminant that would make it not stick well. Also, no primer, as I had read somewhere that metalizer doesn't like primer and only sticks well to bare plastic. The few place I puttied leads me to believe that's correct, as it doesn't look too hot either.

I'm sure they look well when done right, but obviously I'm not doing them right. :) Right now I really and truly can't tell the difference between the metalizer parts and the piece I had to hand brush with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum.

You are not wasting your money. The whole appeal of metalizer paints(imo) is that it is such a thin layer of paint that it looks like real metal. You may get a better or more reflective finish if you try aluminum plate. But when you use the sealer you only need to put on a very light coat. You don't really need to cover all of it. You could even try painting it and then just try not to handle it too much. Remember that engines get dirty, so adding a black wash will also help.

And tamiya flat aluminum is a great paint for engines. It really just depends on the engine your making. Research the pics of the motor and see which paint will get you a closer finish to the real thing.

What parts of the car are you painting?

Ddms

It DID shine up really nice just before the bare white plastic started shining through, though :)

This is where you went wrong. When I use metalizers, I (of course) prime it first, spray gloss black second, and then use the metalizer over it. Then you get a good, convincing metallic looking paint that doesn't rub off easily (but still be careful, these paints like Alclad paints, are not very durable).

What parts of the car are you painting?

Ddms

Exhaust, roll hoop, cabin interior, and underhood portions of a Tamiya Lotus Seven (1/24 version, not the expensive 1/12).

This is where you went wrong. When I use metalizers, I (of course) prime it first, spray gloss black second, and then use the metalizer over it. Then you get a good, convincing metallic looking paint that doesn't rub off easily (but still be careful, these paints like Alclad paints, are not very durable).

I'll try that. I have some things I need to do on some other models. I had read not to prime at all before using metalizers, though... that it only sticks well to bare plastic. Thanks for the tip!

I think it adheres best to a smooth surface - glossy smooth - so bare plastic is better than primer, but I find gloss black works the best.

Okay, here's some pictures....

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/3943292162_fe65e8f5d0_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/chkltcow/3943292162/)

The valve cover, exhaust, roll hoop, and rear package shelf are Metalizer Aluminum. The wheels are Metalizer Steel sealed with Metalizer Sealer. It looks better in pictures, but it's not what I was expecting really.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3425/3943290726_7506d731b9_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/chkltcow/3943290726/)

The engine block and intake risers are painted with Testors Metalizer aluminum over Tamiya Gloss Black Acrylic, both airbrushed on. I really do like the way it looks. Thanks willimo!

Beautiful build! I'm turning British Racing Green with envy.

Ddms

Okay, here's some pictures....

It all looks very nice in my opinion.

I see that you also discovered that the p/e grille on that S7 is a surprisingly bad fit for Tamiya ;) :uhoh:

It all looks very nice in my opinion.

I see that you also discovered that the p/e grille on that S7 is a surprisingly bad fit for Tamiya ;) :uhoh:

Thanks! And yes... that's one way of stating it :lol:

hi!! you said airbeushing at 25 psi.. maybe it's a bit to high in pressure. personnally i airbrush is at 15psi. by this way the metalizer flow just as a normal paint. same trick if you are using Alcladd. don,t use to much pressure. in fact if you have access to Alcladd forget the testor.. Alcladd is by far the best metalizer you can find.

yours