Power steering! Help urgent!

I am having problems with the power steering in my 2001 windstar. For a while now the power steering has been making some really terrible grinding and howling noises. Steering started to get soo bad that my fiance could no longer drive it. Looked at the resivoir and saw air bubbles in the fluid. I bled the system entirely and replaced with lucas power steering (much thcker fluid to try to eliminate the air bubbles) even though i hear u r supposed to use ATF. I jacked up front end and locked wheel left to right to try to work out remaining air. Did the trick as far as being able to drive the car but the problem that still occurs is that when you make a full turn or a turn at higher speeds< it makes the same growling sound< but goes away right after that. If a turn is made too hard too fast the problem will reoccur entirely. Has the pump already been ruined due to driving with air in it for so long or do i have a problem with the rack and pinion? Help greatly appreciated. I am about to fix the p0171 and p0174 codes due to the intake gaskets and isolator bolts and figured since im going there i might as well do the pump as well if it needs replacing. Doin the work in next day or so and would appreciate any feedback asap on the subject. Urgency on the topic needed!!!!! thanx!

Most likely the pump is damaged, especially if you've been driving it for awhile with the grinding sound. You will need a puller to remove the pulley from the pump when replacing and also should consider cleaning out the reservoir as their is a screen inside that gets clogged up with gunk that can restrict oil flow. Then, do a complete flush but with ATF instead of anything which is labeled "power steering fluid". My Windstar had a groaning sound a long time back and I flushed the P/S system entirely with 2qt. of Mobil 1 ATF and not only did the sound go away, but the steering got alot smoother. Good Luck

Just looked at my repair CD and it states that there is a special tool you would need to install a seal into the new pump. Thought you might want to know.

Windstar steering pumps and racks don't last forever. You didn't mention how many miles are on your vehicle.

On my '99, the rack was replaced when the engine was rebuilt at 215 k miles. This was because it was convenient and the inner tie rod ends needed replacing anyway. This (Ford reman) rack failed in about 40k miles. I miss-identified the problem and replaced the pump ... quickly followed by another rack and reservoir ... along with much system flushing to get rid of poss contaminants. At 260 k plus, all seems OK.

I recommend you do the entire system to make sure you get everything.

On the easy side of things, make sure that the tie rod ends and lower ball joints are in good order.
I have heard windstars in parking lots making a lot of squeeking noises.......due to tie rod ends.
The factory original tie rod ends (and many replacement ones) have no grease fittings, they dry out....and get tight.....placing a increased load on the steering system.

Binding steering / suspension parts are dangerous.....and I would have the vehicle checked out ASAP.
A good way to do this is to have a alignment done at a good shop.....as a good alignment includes a good shakedown of the front end....and they specifically look at your tie rod ends.

The correct fluid for your power steering is now a ATF that meets the Mercon V specification.
Mobil 1 ATF is fairly easy to find....and would be a good choice.

Thanks for all the advice. You say that there is a tool you need MARZ for a seal? Thats the first i have heard about it. Earlier today i was at the ford dealership brushin up on some things before i take this van apart today and all he said i would need is the pulley puller. Guess ill have to wait and see. As far as the van goes it has 130K. The problem of growling/howling only happens on fast, or tight turns. I did hear something about the alignment possibly having an effect but my wallet can only take soo much while going to school and taking care of a child. I hear alot of people saying that i should deff replace pump cause of running it with air in system for so long so im going to go ahead and do so and let you all know how it turns out. And again i appreciate all the help. Thanx!

Oh and i do have another question, whats the deal with the brake and abs light. seen some things about it but have not yet got a good reply about the issue. Got a lot of work to do to the van and am going to try to get it done in one big swoop. PS pump, TSB for 171 and 174 codes, plugs, wires, fuel filter, oil change, injectors, and also thinking about the DPFE since i hear alot about that crappin out. Know how to test and see if HO2S22 sensor is bad? (sensor 2 bank 2). Guess its just a monitor not a sensor. Have no clue wat to look for as far as testing it. Any info helpful. Thanks!

Oh and i do have another question, whats the deal with the brake and abs light. seen some things about it but have not yet got a good reply about the issue.

Here is a link to a Ford recall campaign website to address the ABS / brake light issues. Read up on all that is there and it will lead you to the likely root causes. My 2000 SE had the leaky pressure switch but caught it just as it started to wick down the wires and avoided any of the major prob's with melted wires and fire. It's a very easy fix and only about 20 bucks for an OEM Ford kit. The ABS warning light I also have, it is likely the ABS module because it only lights up in the summer month, the hotter the air temp - the sooner it lights. That is expensive, about $400 for just the module so I just drive it cautiously and try to not lock up the brakes since the ABS is disabled while the light is on.

http://www.fordwindstarrecall.info/

Brake and ABS lights, the FIRST thing to check is the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder.
If the fluid is even very slightly low.....slightly below the FULL line, it will light these lights (both light on my '96).
When adding brake fluid, use ONLY fluid from a sealed container.....a container that has been sitting around for months (with the seal broken) has been absorbing moisture.
The location of the master cylinder makes access a bit difficult.
I know it sounds basic......but....first open the new container of brake fluid and remove the seal.....then put the cap back on......manuver the bottle in next to the fill cap on the master cylinder......remove cap from master cylinder and brake fluid bottle and add fluid until the fluid level in the master cylinder is all the way to the top of the FULL line.

Brake pressure switch.....At this point, there is NO recall from FORD for this for the windstar.
As mentioned, it is a very easy DIY job.
Here is a link to a picture of old and new switches.....they just screw into the bottom of the master cylinder.....and wire harness connects to it.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1345058890011220610kRthZU

As far as the power steering pump......it 'could' be bad.....but .....only my opinion.....air in the system most likely (while it makes a LOT of noise) did not cause it to fail....as the pump was not running dry, it still had fluid to lubricate it.
For this reason, I would put a steering and suspension component inspection first on the list for difficult steering.
Having a mechanic check the vehicle over costs some money, but will save you from replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.......STILL having the problem.
I hate to see you waste money on expensive parts unless you KNOW for SURE that it is bad.

Power steering setup is (I think) a bit different on my '96 than the newer years.....the resevoir is mounted to the side of the pump......newer units may have it remote from the pump.
However this picture may help in the power steering pump removal process.....you may or may not need to remove the whole bracket......like I did in order to have room to get the pump off.....due to the resevior being on pump.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1324725013011220610safAZm
There are 3 bolts that hold the pump to the big alluminum bracket, and 3 long bolts that you can see sticking out of the bracket.....that hold the braket to the motor.
I found that removing the alternator FIRST helps a LOT as you don't need that additional weight when manuvering that bracket around.
Use CARE when working with the metal (high pressure) line to the pump (new pump in picture has blue plug at that spot), as it is easy to cross thread that connector.

For clarity......in that picture, alternator is removed, and you can see the idler pulley at the bottom left of the bracket.


Injectors?.....they are quite reliable on the windstar, however they do tend to need some help with cleaning.
I have found (for my '96) that the best cleaning (and I have tried LOTS of cleaners) is from one of the cheapest products.... Berryman's B-12 Chemtool which can be found at your local AutoZone and other part stores.
Get the liquid (not spray) version that you add to your gas tank......get enough to treat the amount of fuel that your tank holds (20 gallon or optional 25 gallon).

As far as the downstream oxygen sensors......one can remove and switch them from side to side.....so that the bank 1 & 2 downstream sensors have switched places.
If you get the SAME code, then it is not the sensor, but wiring or catalytic converter.
If the failure code comes up with a failure on bank 1 instead of bank 2, then the sensor is defective.
Can you post the actual code that you got for the downstream sensor (there are a lot of failure codes for each sensor which state exactly what the failure is).

Wiswind, the code that i got for the o2 is p0156 (Ho2s22 circuit fault). As far as the repairs on the windstar, it went ok. I did replace the power steering pump, guy at ford said it would be a good idea. seemed to solve the problem but now i have to find a way to get the air out of the system. Any ideas? Doesnt squeel hard on turns, only lightly all the time cause of the air. Thing about the old pump is that yea there was some fluid, but it was almots nonexsistant. Pump got really bad and couldnt maintain correct pressure. And wow was it a pain in the ass to switch that pulley. Uses OEM Pulley installer/puller. Took 15 min to get off and broke the bolt of tool in pump shaft trying to get it bak on. Nothing works good like a good ole hammer. Everything is good except for air in system. Should i take it to ford? Jack up front end and lock wheel left and right to work it out? Afraid to drive it all the way to ford to get it flushed. Ideas? Thanx for all the help by the way to, very informative!

I also broke the bolt on my pulley-puller when installing pulley on new pump. Ended up opening up the bore of pulley using abrasive paper and drill motor ... before trying again. Then tool was OK, but things still too tight.

Hammer! Hope you didn't mess up your new pump!

There's a proceedure for bleeding the air. I don't recall the details, but it's something like with vehicle OFF turn right all the way to the stop. Top of the fluid, then turn left all the way to stop, top off the fluid. Start the vehicle and turn left and right to stop (slowly) to work out any remaining bubbles. This is best done with the vehicle front wheels off the ground.

Obviously any air trapped in the hydraulic cylinders won't move out unless the fluid is moved. Once air bubbles make their way to the pump they should have a chance to escape before being drawn back into the pump's intake.

The turn from limit to limit (not resting on the limits), then wait........for the bubbles to rise to the top of the fluid in the resevoir......do it again......is the way to do it.
YES, it helps to have the front wheels raised off the ground....but not required.
It may take some time to work all the air out of the system.....if this does NOT work......you are drawing air in from someplace.....in this case.....I have seen posts about a screen in some of the newer (1999 and newer) resevoirs......maybe this screen is clogged?......This could rob the pump of fluid......lots of fluid in resevoir....but not getting to the pump.

Also, look for leaks.......and track them down if you find any.

As for the P0156 circuit failure.......check the plug and wiring for that oxygen sensor....unplug, inspect connections....plug back in..........make sure that the wiring has not fallen down onto a hot exhaust pipe.....
Actually, if you don't see something obvious.....then I would switch the downstream sensors from side to side.....and see if the problem moves with the sensor.
You will be removing the sensor.....and unplugging it (plug stays to the same pipe.....move sensor only).
This will verify between the sensor or wiring.....which is bad.

Thanx for the adviec. For the power steering i did bleed the whole system and there is no screen. No visible leaks either. If the pump is not the problem (which i have to get another and have ford install the pulley cause i messed last one up with hammer) then i am absoltuly clueless and will have to spend the money to replace all components. The new pump when i installed the pulley, it did not go on all the way. No bubbles in system but has a terrible noise and you can see that the pulley is not on at a 90 degree angle (you can see pulley move ever soo slightly when running). Going to ford tomorrow to get a pulley installed on new pump and see how that goes. If not i have n oidea what to do next and problem is, i have to use van for family vaca friday at 9pm to minnesota. 10 hour drive and want the van in tip top shape. Ill let you know tomorrow how it goes. Gunna try to take a look at ho2 sensor tomorrow too. TTYL!