Battery getting drained

Hi,
I have Chevy Malibu 2002 model. The car battery is getting drained overnight. I have shown to mechanic but he could not fix the problem. I had already spent 600$ but the issue is still not fixed. He has replcaed the hood switch as well as ignition switch but still battery is getting discharged.
I am thinking of using Battery Brain. Any suggestions are welcome.

After you shut down with the hood open look for a fan motor running. If this is occurring pull the relay for the fan motor. If it shuts down replace the relay.
Listen for the fuel pump continuing to run after shut down. If this is occurring pull the fuel pump relay if it shuts down replace the relay.
Use a DVOM on the amp setting pull the ground wire measure the amps. Then pull one fuse at a time until the amps go down. You have to wait until the under dash lights go out.
Once you find the fuse check items on the fuse.
Sometimes you have to completely disconnect the alternator as they can ground also.
It takes some and your mechanic doesn't want to do this for you.

Thanks. But I am a newbie and don't know anything about the car. Should I tell the mechanic to do that?:frown:

I would ask him to do that as you need to find the problem.
http://www.tooltopia.com/ search TXH 431 or battery drain tester.
I would delete the part he doesn't want to check it out. I would expect appx. 1 hours shop time.

Hi,
I have Chevy Malibu 2002 model. The car battery is getting drained overnight. I have shown to mechanic but he could not fix the problem. I had already spent 600$ but the issue is still not fixed. He has replcaed the hood switch as well as ignition switch but still battery is getting discharged.
I am thinking of using Battery Brain. Any suggestions are welcome.


I normally don't go here...but I read your posting and you must find another electrically competent repair technician...

just because an auto repair business repairs vehicles does not guarrantee they know anything about electrical circuits and operation..basicly they change parts at your expense....you are not alone with this type of incompetent repair shops...robbery..

with your problem, I would ,,,with your vehicle shutdown,,, monitor the current being drained from the battery....this current should be 50-200MA......if this is higher, you then start removing fuses until this current drops to the range I stated...

now with this knowledge,,,you throw it at the auto tech...

when he gives you some B/S line or don't understand, get in your vehicle and drive away fast...

All the above is good advice. As a last resort have a look at the alternator. Some years back I had battery drainage overnight and found out that a diode inside the alternator was leaking and allowing current to flow back into the alternator draining the battery when the car was switched off. Nothing indicated that the alternator was at fault. It seemed to charge the battery ok.

The battery is replaced with new battery and the alternator is also good. What could be the other reason.

This is a picture of a tester.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_A305.htm
You can go to a Chevy dealer pay for a parasitic drain test. A couple hours shop time maximum at $100.00 to $150.00 per hour.
Otherwise your guessing.
A picture of a tester. http://www.tooltopia.com/ Search 7645

Thanks everyone...
I figured out the problem on my own but I need solution. The problem is,
When I drive the car, come to the parking area, switch to the parking/any gear and try to switch off the car, the key does not turn completely to "off" state. It get stuck to ACC. But when I remove the "Body Function Control Module/Instrument Panel Cluster" fuse from "Instrument Panel Fuse Block - Driver's side", then the key turn to "off" state and then all lights are off(when the key is in ACC, speedometer light continuously glow on).
Again when I start the car and switch off the car, it goes to "off" state but when I change the gear or drive the car, again the key get stuck to ACC. Everytime I have to do this activity(removing fuse and switching off the car and then reinserting the fuse) for the battery to not get drained.
FYI...my mechanic has already replaced the key ignition switch and the key.
Request all of your help in fixing this problem.
Thanks in advance...

Regards,
Amol.

I'm really going to take a wild dip at this one. I think there is a problem with your shifter/ignition cylinder interlock. I am not clued up on your specific model car but there is normally a cable that is driven by a solenoid that interlocks your shifter with the ignition cylinder. This is there so that you can only remove the key in the park position. By removing the fuse you defeat the interlock and can then remove the key. Either the solenoid or cable is defective or not adjusted correctly.

I want to know if i put the switch in ACC position, will the battery will drain overnight(only speedometer light glows continuosuly when it is in ACC)?

I want to know if i put the switch in ACC position, will the battery will drain overnight(only speedometer light glows continuosuly when it is in ACC)?


What is important is that you put the shifter in park when you leave the car. This is for a very important safety issue. This is the purpose of allowing the key only to be removed in the park position. It seems as if the interlock system is screwed up. I would suggest that you get a competent mechanic to look at it as soon as possible. I have no further advice.