Where is the ignition module located 96 CV ???

Hi Guys

Where in the world is the ignition module located on the 96 Vic. It's not on the driver side inner fender area like the older models. I've got a no spark issue on this car. I've replaced both coil packs, cam and crank sensor and still no spark. This car ran absolutely perfect and for no good reason just up and quit. It's been broke down for way too long and I'm just beating my brains out trying to figure it out. What am I missing ?

Look on the side of the distributor. It takes a 7/32 deep socket or a special tool. I use a 12 volt test light if the coil negative blinks when trying to start look at the module. Advance or Auto Zone check free. If it doesn't blink replace the pickup in the side of the distributor. This requires a puller.
http://www.tooltopia.com/ THE415 Module KD3197

No distributor on this one, just coil packs.

Are the wires broken under the front bumper cover? Look under the right headlight area where the wires cross the bumper. Possibly a brown wire or a green/red wire.

I was 10 years off if the wire is satisfactory check camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor.

Hi guys here is what I've done so far.

It looks like I have a combo of two problems. I have a week/intermittent/no spark issue. And an intermittent fuel pressure problem. I have looked at all the wiring at and under both distribution boxes under hood, looked at all wiring under the bat tray. Replaced both coil packs, cam and crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, relays they are all working. I have power to the eec. On the fuel deal. some times I have pressure at the relief valve sometimes not. I replaced the injectors twice, filter, psi regulate. With the lines removed at the rail there is plenty of fuel flow. You can hear the pump running and it is pumping fuel. The only thing I haven't done is change the fuel pump. You know, the whole "week fuel psi thing" I seriously doubt that. But at this point I'm willing to try anything. I can do it without dropping the tank, so that's at least a bonus. getting those connectors to release is the worst part.

I would check your ground wires a loose ground will cause all these types of problems.

I've checked all the ground wires I can see, they are tight with no corrosion. This is a nice clean southern car, not a rusty old nasty like I usually to work on. I also forgot to post previously that I replaced the computer as well.

Was discussing fuel pump pumping vs pump providing correct pressure with a friend today. He thinks the fuel pump is week and not pressuring up. I have another good pump I can try, so why not. Still disgusted with the car so I didn't touch it today, will try to swap the pump out tomorrow and see if I can get consistent fuel pressure back. I believe it will fire on that week spark, if it stays sparking at all. I will post results. I sure need to get this one running again, so I can move on the the next basket case non runner.

Without a test gage its hard to say,my sons 97 Explorer went out and I took off the nozzle and sprayed starting fluid in and it started.
I would make up a pair of test leads and make a temporary ground and positive wire for the external pump. This will rule out wiring for the pump.
A bad pressure regulator will drop pressure. Pull the vacuum line if it has gas in it replace otherwise use a pair of vise grips and pinch off the return.
Some yards have a lift and other ones use a wrecker. These vehicles have a primer pump in the tank if you picked up the front if this pump is bad you could lose prime to the main pump. Normally they will run but not properly.
I imagine your using all used parts and its possible one of them is bad.

Make sure it has enough gas in the tank when picking it up with a wrecker you may uncover the pickup tube.

I tried starting it on spray and still nothing. I have 10 gallons of fresh gas in it. All of the parts that I am using are used, but they are from known runners. It's not the psi reg. since I tested it on another car and the other car runs fine off of the vics regulator. I was going to pinch off that return line and try that also, but it's got the hard plastic lines and don't want to break them. I am going to replace the pump today first thing and see what happens. I got a good one on the work bench right now. It worked fine on the car I took off of and it still runs when I put power to it, day before yesterday. All my power wires going to the pump are good, relay is good. The pump still runs and pumps fuel, it's just that week fuel psi thing. I am only changing the pumps to put that theory to rest. I sure hope that's the problem. I am running out of ideas here and the cars days are numbed at this point, I am fed up it.

The pump could be bad but if this doesn't work did you look under the front bumper at the wires at this point?

Ok I replaced the pump this morning, fuel psi is stronger at the rail now. Things were pretty cruddy on the sending unit, just cleaning it up will help.

This damn thing still won't start. There was nothing wrong with the old fuel pump, just a bit varnished up and the rubber hose was rotted out. I believe the rubber hose was most of the problem. Now I just need to deal with this week/ no spark issue.

Yes I checked those wires under the battery tray. Pulled most of the wire casing off and I can't see any wires that look bad.

What about an ignition module on this one? Is there one? Any one? I sure would like to try swapping ignition modules.

I swapped coil packs again today to my test car. The vics coil packs run the test car fine. The vics fuel psi regulator runs the test car fine.

Just for kicks I tried swapping out some ecu's. My test car will not run on the vics ecu and visa versa. The test car is a 95 Lincoln Town Car, so 1 year difference. I tried an ecu from a 98 LTC and the vic will spit and sputter and start to fire up, but just not quite start it. That ecu created some sort of life, that I haven't seen in a while. It definitely fired the engine several times. Well I am leaning towards the ECU as the cause of the problem. I don't know much about them, so I am thinking if I found one that was 1996 specific from another vic that might do the trick. Dealer wants 75 bucks to run diagnostic on it and they need the whole car. Like I am going to tow the car down there to have them tell me that the ecu is no good. It would be cheaper to buy one from a junk yard and hope for the best.

Ground left rear of left front fender apron. Right fender apron right side of battery.Front of right fender apron. Rear of left front fender apron. Right cowl panel near door sill. Near #1 fuel injector. Center rear of trunk on support.
Fuel rail pressure sensor top of engine.
Use a test light and make sure the injectors have a signal. Also check for power to the coils. Use a gem clip in one terminal and light tip in other terminal.

What ever did you find I would like to find out.

Nothing yet, only other thing I've done is remove both power harness connectors under the brake booster and cleaned the contacts. I did re check all ground connections, all looks good. I Got my 1000 cranking amp new bat. in her now. Computer ecu is out, lwoods junk yard wants 50 bucks for another ecu. I have to dig through a pile of them down there, and match up the numbers. Which brings me to the question any one know what specific ecu's I can use for this car? I have tried the 95 LTC, 1998 LTC neither of them will run the car, and visa versa. The other cars run, and should be close to the vic right ? I'll plug the ecu back up and just for kicks see what it will do. Ill also get some of that fuel system cleaner to dump in the tank next time I am out. Any one like anything? I've used that seafoam, it was ok.

Did you try to swap the fuel pressure sensor. Some of the newer Ford's use these instead of a pressure regulator to regulate pressure.
I always matched the numbers on the computer some manuals give some interchange information I'm surprised a junk yard doesn't have one.

I've got A Hollander interchange program. It only says 1996 for the interchange. That junk yard has the Hollander books, with the same useless info. I have changed the psi regulator form my test car. The test car still runs fine with the vics regulator. Installed the old ecu today and still nothing, so it wasn't those wire connections either.

The computer pulses the ground for the injectors. Use a test light and check for power to injectors. Reverse test lead to positive and check the negative side the light should blink when when trying to start. The harness that goes to a plug in back of the motor maybe bad.

Did the new computer fix your problem?

I searched one junk yard last week and didn't find any 96 models. I checked all the ones I could get to, there were a few shoved in so tight that I couldn't get the doors open to see what years they were. I will to go back and check again when I have more time.

Did the replacement computer fix the problem?