Inner tie rods?

Anyone with experience removing inner ties rods on a 95 transport? Do you have to remove the whole rack assembly? Will a tool from Autozone work? Any ideas or tips will be appreciated. Thanks.

Anyone with experience removing inner ties rods on a 95 transport? Do you have to remove the whole rack assembly? Will a tool from Autozone work? Any ideas or tips will be appreciated. Thanks.

Are you sure its the inners? I just replaced my outers and ball joints.

Are you sure its the inners? I just replaced my outers and ball joints.

Ball joints are fine(replaced 2 yrs ago). I just replaced my outers today but there is still a little play at the inners. I haven't done inners before and I'm trying to get all the information that I can. I don't want to damage the rack and prefer not to remove it.

I replaced my inners once and I did remove the rack... But several other forum members managed to build "special tools" and did the change in situ. there are a few threads about that, will try to find and link.

Had an inner done passenger side with a 3.4 engine. Mech did it with the rack in place & wasn't a big deal.

Had an inner done passenger side with a 3.4 engine. Mech did it with the rack in place & wasn't a big deal.

The inner is staked, and that's where I'm not sure if the tool would work. I've seen that tool, and it basically goes over the tie rod itself and onto the end which is attached to the rack. You need to put a wrench on the rack end so you don't torque the rack itself. It'll be pretty cramped - hopefully someone whose done it can chime in.

I only mentioned my job in that didn't cost much (& wasn't a huge job) to pay someone to fix.

Some jobs, best thing is to spend a few bucks rather than fiddlin away.. & ending up with headaches..

As LMP mentioned, pretty sure there is info in former threads of folks who have done the job & some of the info suggested the rack has to come out. Maybe it does for the 3.8 ..or if not having the right tool(s) dunno.

Probably time for an alignment after too..

Here is a couple of posts on it -

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=642615

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-549451.html


I removed the rack as per the Service Manual - but wouldn't do that again!!

I bought the parts at Canadian Tire and they loaned me the tool... Make sure you hold the rack from turning to avoid damaging the gears.

The Inner tie rod is threaded onto the rack and crimped. I think the hard part is how to crimp the new one so it doesn't come loose. Loctite would be a good idea too.

Allan

Just had a look at the 96 3.4 FSM & it calls out rack removal for inner tie rod service.

Main cautions shown (& these are only for after removal) are:
Notice
- Rack must be held during removal of ITR to prevent rack damage.

Important!
- Rack must be held during ITR installation to prevent gear damage.

Important!
-Make sure tie rod rocks freely in housing before staking ITR assy to rack.

Few other checks involved also during this part..

Here is a couple of posts on it -

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=642615

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-549451.html


I removed the rack as per the Service Manual - but wouldn't do that again!!

I bought the parts at Canadian Tire and they loaned me the tool... Make sure you hold the rack from turning to avoid damaging the gears.

The Inner tie rod is threaded onto the rack and crimped. I think the hard part is how to crimp the new one so it doesn't come loose. Loctite would be a good idea too.

Allan

Those links helped alot. Thank you. I have the 95, which is the last year of the "Dustbuster" models. It seems I won't have to drop the rack. I'll look at it closer this weekend.

Those links helped alot. Thank you. I have the 95, which is the last year of the "Dustbuster" models. It seems I won't have to drop the rack. I'll look at it closer this weekend.

This sounds interesting. If you can, document for the rest of us "noobs" what you did. If you can, take some digital pictures, because I'm sure we'll need them too!!!!

Thanks, and good luck.

... I have the 95, which is the last year of the "Dustbuster" models. ....
..for the record, 96 was the last Dustbuster year..but gone was the 3.8: 3.4 only :crying:.
...and, I wish you can avoid a full removal, as other have been able to, but just in case: www.avigex.ca/xport/rackremoval.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/steering3.jpg

..for the record, 96 was the last Dustbuster year..but gone was the 3.8: 3.4 only :crying:.
...and, I wish you can avoid a full removal, as other have been able to, but just in case: www.avigex.ca/xport/rackremoval.jpg (http://www.avigex.ca/xport/rackremoval.jpg)
www.avigex.ca/xport/steering3.jpg (http://www.avigex.ca/xport/steering3.jpg)

Its a shame that 95 was the last year for the 3800 in the U Bodies..

I replaced the passenger side Inner tie rod with the Rack in Place.... It was a living and breathing nightmare... I got it done tho.. It is much easier to deal with the rack on the ground..

Very soon I will have my engine out for a 3800 Series III swap... But at that time as the Miles are high on the van I am going to go ahead and replace the Rack while the subframe is out.. So the new rack is sitting here waiting to go in..

If you have the Money I recommend that you let the shop take care of the inner tie rods.. Ball joints are much much easier to deal with on these vans..

Its a shame that 95 was the last year for the 3800 in the U Bodies..

I replaced the passenger side Inner tie rod with the Rack in Place.... It was a living and breathing nightmare... I got it done tho.. It is much easier to deal with the rack on the ground..

Very soon I will have my engine out for a 3800 Series III swap... But at that time as the Miles are high on the van I am going to go ahead and replace the Rack while the subframe is out.. So the new rack is sitting here waiting to go in..

If you have the Money I recommend that you let the shop take care of the inner tie rods.. Ball joints are much much easier to deal with on these vans..


Well, I didn't do anything this weekend. Went out late with the buds last night. Money is tight right now so I'm probably going to put it off for a little while. I'll get an estimate from Lentz and go from there. I've always liked tackling the jobs myself because it saves mucho $$$ and I usually learn alot. I've decided if I have to take the rack out, I'm not gonna do it.

You can do this with the Rack in the van... But it is a Royal PITA... I have done it and would do it again to avoid pulling the rack.. I wouldn't recommend it tho... Once you replace the Inner tie rod the alignment will have to be reset.. So you may be better off finding a good shop with fair prices that can also reset the alignment when they are done..

I have a thing about doing the work myself as well.. I understand..

You can do this with the Rack in the van... But it is a Royal PITA... I have done it and would do it again to avoid pulling the rack.. I wouldn't recommend it tho... Once you replace the Inner tie rod the alignment will have to be reset.. So you may be better off finding a good shop with fair prices that can also reset the alignment when they are done..

I have a thing about doing the work myself as well.. I understand..

yup, a tradeoff!

If you can do it without removing the rack (as some have) go for it!!! Changing them in place may be a Royal PITA but removing the rack has gotta be worse. The power steering has to be drained, steering disconnected (THAT was difficult!), sub frame loosened, back two bolts removed and sub frame lowered, then rack unbolted and removed. All that BEFORE getting to the tie rod. Hey at least the "Royal PITA" is directed at removing the tie rod and not in the prep work. :)

You might want to search the site and the web for other info on changing them and staking them after installing.
I recall other posts on it - just didn't have time to look for them...

The Dustbuster style ended in '96 and the Lumina APV was discontinued after that too. I refer to the '94-96 as the "Snub Nose " version. I do like both styles tho!

My 2 cents.

Fwiw, found my bill & was charged a half hour labor (~35 bucks) for the the job.

Fwiw, found my bill & was charged a half hour labor (~35 bucks) for the the job.

That's cheap!