95 Camry Won't Start

1995 Toyota Camry (http://www.2carpros.com/forum/here-vp519617.html#) 2.2 Automatic 200000 miles w/ca emissions.

I have a 95 Camry that won't start. It first started with hesitation when taking off from a stop and then progressed to wouldn't start when hot after sitting for over 10 minutes. If you started it up right away when hot hit would start but not after sitting. I replaced the temp sending unit and that seemed to cure that problem. I still had a engine miss. I had 20inches vacuum but the needle would move about 1 or 2 inches. I cleaned my throttle body and egr. I checked my ignition coil and it was close to resistance limit so i replaced it. After replacing the coil it wouldn't start. I found that i had a broken wire at the harness connector at the distributor. I replaced that and it still won't start.

I have fuel (http://www.2carpros.com/forum/here-vp519617.html#) at the right pressure getting to the plugs, The plugs are firing and I have 150 psi compression in all 4 cylinders. I have check the engine timing to make sure the rotor is at number 1 when on the compression stroke. I have back probed the ecm and every single test is within specs (map, igniter & distributor pickup).

It will start but just barely like it's not hitting on all cylinders and will die. I even jumped the diagnostic connector but to avail. I back fires and acts like it's out of time. Any help would appreciated.

It looks like you have covered almost everything!

Still have some questions: how does vacuum gauge needle behave? Where and how does it move? It could point out either to bad/broken valves, clogged catalytic converter, etc.
Another question would be: have you checked compression?

Sam

I have 150 psi in all 4 cyls. When it was running the vacuum gauge only fluctuated by 1 to 2 which indicated a ign miss which i already knew. a bad valve would have gave more fluctuation. I have Mitchel & Motors manuals and have gone thru every test listed but to no avail. I have orderd a used ecm from ebay so i'll try that when it arrives but i have my doubts. I missing somthing just dont know what. I have fuel, fire, compression and timing at the right spot but just wont run.

That new ECM is probably your best bet right now. Only other thing that comes to mind based on what you've posted is your no start problem started with changing the coil. You say the new coil is producing spark. Is it a strong bluish spark? If you haven't yet try putting the old coil back in.

You say it backfires. Is that out the exhaust or up front? If it's up front out the intake manifold it usually means there's a lean condition. Out the exhaust usually means a rich condiition. At least that's what I've read.

As somick said, you've touched all the bases. I'd be scratchin my head too. Might be something in the FSM accessable at the top of the forum in the "Factory Service Manuals" thread. Bump that against your Mitchels manual and see if anything stands out.

I changed the ecm but still wont stay running. I blocked off the egr but still wont stay running. If I advance the distributor it will start with my foot on the gas and get up to about 2000 rpms for a few seconds but not quite right then dies popping back thru the throttle body. I'm at a loss.

A few things I didn't see mentioned:

1) Cap and rotor terminals. Are they nice and clean or are they encrusted with oxidation?

2) Spark plugs. Are they new or old? What brand? NGK are the recommended ones in here though I've had good experience with Autolite platinums. Stay away from all Bosch Pt plugs. Their design is not adjustable for gap as they wear.

3) PCV valve. Check for a sticking or plugged valve.

4) IAC valve. Clean it & check for proper operation (NOT BY PRESSING THE PLUNGER DOWN WITH YOUR THUMB...it will break)

5) EGR valve and pipe assembly. Again, clean & check for proper operation.

6) Throttle body assembly. Use some carb cleaner and tooth brush to remove any build up from the TB walls, butterfly plate, and mechanical linkages.

After these, I'd start looking at the crank and camshaft position sensors.

It may be worthwhile to see if your car has an OBD II diagnostic port...if it was built late enough in 1995 you may be in luck. With this, you could check the live data from the engine sensors.

Hope this helps!

The cap,rotor & wires are brand new bought them after the problem started. The plugs were put in last summer and are NGK. I have pulled the plugs and they are good. The plugs are firing I took them out and connected them, to there corresponding plug wire and they all fired. The pcv valve put in last summer. I took IAC and EGR off and cleaned them but I might have done something wrong becayse before that it ran with just a little miss. But after putting avery thing back and it not starting is when i found one of the wires to the connector at the distributor was broken. I replaced it but still wont start. I went back and tried blocking off the egr to the intake but no change. I changed the ECM but still the same thing. It is OBD 1. It does not have seperete cam & crank sensors the distribtor takes care of that. I have taken the throttle body back off but nothing that stands out. I ahve Tried interchanging the new ign coil and old one but no differance. I will try to change the throttle body and see what happens.

Thanks for clarifying those items. Next, I'd check the fuses for the ignition and injectors. Then I'd check all the engine grounds. Hmmm, what else.... Timing belt may have jumped a tooth and now the cam & crank are out of sync.

You could unbolt the exhaust downpipe at the header to see if a clogged cat is causing it.

You mentioning that the car ran better before you cleaned the IAC and EGR would lend belief that one of those isn't working correctly now. To the point of a no-start? I wouldn't think so, but perhaps. I mentioned it but wasn't specific, the IAC is a servo-actuated valve. Any pressure exerted on the pintle can break the internal moving mechanism. And it cannot be immersed in cleaner. The EGR is vacuum operated, but a bear to clean it to any good effect.

If I think of anything else, I'll chime in again. Good luck!

The EGR including the down tube were good & clear and the EGR killed the engine when vacuum was applied when I took them off. It acts like it's out of time that's what's killing me but I have repeatedly checked the crank shaft TDC position vs Cam shaft gear timing marks to where the rotor is and it's dead on. It starts when I put foot on the pedal when I start it but it does not quite fire up like it's not hitting on all cylinders all the way and then dies. I have thought a vacuum leak but I can't find any thing.

Have you tried spraying ether directly into the throttle body? That would take out and issue of the fuel pump not working correctly or the charcoal canister limiting fuel delivery. If all 4 cyclinders start firing then you got it. You have covered a lot of electrical testing and seem to be getting a solid orange spark. I had a minor leak in the fuel filler down tube on my 95 Camry 2.2, ( rust) which seemed to have caused the fuel pump to fail or just be too weak. The ether pointed me into the fuel pump and down tube replacment issue.

Keep us posted
Jen

I did try that awhile back but I'll try it again but fuel pressure was at the max pressure when it was running. I'll go back and measure it again see what I get.

before that it ran with just a little miss. But after putting every thing back and it not starting is when i found one of the wires to the connector at the distributor was broken. I replaced it but still wont start.


At this point I'd back probe that wire to verify that there is not a break internally and thus not apparent on visual inspection. BTDT. Have you checked the fuse for the FI?

One of the best threads we've had in a long time. Keep us posted, I really look forward to what the final answer is to this mystery. I was going to say cam sensor but you had that covered.

I'm probably going to try a another distributor even thou the the existing one checks out with a ohm meter maybe the air gap is bad I haven't checked that one but doesn't seem likely.

I'd recheck the new ignition coil and the connector you repaired.

Based on past experience, personal as well as in the forum, a coil that is barely in spec is usually not good enough. It needs to put out a good, hot, blue spark. This gen of Camrys are finicky like that.

And while you did test the igniter, double check those wires to/from it...from the ECM, to the coil, the tach, and to ground.

Sounds like the car ran with only a slight miss until the distributor wiring harness was changed - after which it ran not at all.
I'd be double checking that harness, or replacing again. Could be it's not exactly the right part for that engine, or was damaged even if new.
If it ran before replacing the distributor wiring harness and now it does not run - focus your attention there.
The factory service manual does list the function of each wire. One is to count engine revolutions for example.
There is also a Calif. and Federal version of the distributor, so there may be differences in the wiring harness even if the connector is similar or even identical.
One more idea:
Check the wires for continuity.
When repairing the wiring at the trunk hinge for example, my wiring looked fine on the outside, but the inner strands were broken from flexing.

I've matched that wire colors from old dist to new (used) dist pig tail go to the same spot on the dist pick up module. I checked continuity from the connector on the new pig tail where it connects to the dist all the way back to the ecm harness connector no breaks in any of the four wires. Fuel pressure is @ 44 psi so no problem there and I checked the computer for codes but no codes. I've checked the dist pick up but it checks out within specs. Maybe the used ecm I bought on ebay is no good. I might have to take it to a shop and pay them for 2 or 3 hrs diagnostic time but there going to tell me it needs a new dist $147.00 (Reman) to $300.00 (new) or ecm $366.00 damned if you do damned if you don't.

I think I might have figured it out. When Daniel said to go back to the harness I checked the continuity from pig tail to ecm and all was fine so i went back to the wiring diagram and there are two wire labeled NCA instead of color coded. One of those apparently wraps around the outside of the other four wires. Another the wire the diagram shows going from the distributor to the coil labeled same as the other NCA. When I changed the pig tail There was only 4 wires going at the distributer but I did notice a wire with no insulation a little farther up in the harness which which reminded me of coxaxel cable tv wire strands. Anyway if I decided to buy a harness and it works or don't I'll post the outcome.

I pulled out my Haynes Manual and tried to understand the wiring diagram for the control system and reference the distributor. I don't have my 4 cylinder 95 Camry to check, but the diagram in the manual shows those R L B Y wires being shielded which is what you maybe seeing as "coax" type wire. Wish I could give you a solution to the no start problem.

I thought that might have been the problem but went back and back probed those wires at the ecm & they were right in specs so right back at the beginning.

I beleive someone mentioned the Coolant temperature sensor is this thread. From what I read in the manual, it mentioned that damage to this sensor will effect the operation of the entire fuel injection system. Reference was 2200 -2700 ohms cold and 280-350 ohms hot on the sensor terminals. I think the 5 volts is measured on the harness with the key in the ON position. Not sure. Maybe someone else would be able to comment if the CTS would cause a no start condition.

I replaced the CTS a few weeks before it broke down as I was having a no start when the engine was warm but I'll go back and check it and check the harness to the CTS.

Any body have access to a professional repair manual or knowledge of Camry's. I was checking the ecm pin voltages for the IAC system it said to check the ISCC, ISCO voltage to to ground. I found that one (ISCO) of the two wires had the specified voltage 9-12 volts and the other had 0.60 volts. I'm a little lost as the diagnostic chart doesn't say whether I'm supposed to check the two wires individualy or am I supposed to jump the two wires together then check for voltage to ground ? That doesn't make since to me. The diagnostic chart never seperates the two wires it always mentiones the two as below. Any body have any idea ?

ISCC (A-9)
- E01 (A-13) STD VOLTAGE 9-14 IG switch on
ISCO (A-10)

Any body have access to a professional repair manual or knowledge of Camry's.
Try www.camrystuff.com

I have Mitchell & Motor I was just wondering if some else had one or could look at the same site and give me a opinion about the voltage but i thought about it and the computer woundn't give a signal to close and open at the same time so I really don't knopw why both books say to check it the way I previously posted as you would signal to each at different times. I received a voltage reading of .60 on the closed side at the ecm. I checked the IAC with 12 volts at each of the two sides and it worked like it's supposed to. It will just barely start and run for a for seconds if I advance the distributor to the max then it dies.

1995 Toyota Camry (http://www.2carpros.com/forum/here-vp519617.html#) 2.2 Automatic 200000 miles w/ca emissions.

I have a 95 Camry that won't start. It first started with hesitation when taking off from a stop and then progressed to wouldn't start when hot after sitting for over 10 minutes. If you started it up right away when hot hit would start but not after sitting. I replaced the temp sending unit and that seemed to cure that problem. I still had a engine miss. I had 20inches vacuum but the needle would move about 1 or 2 inches. I cleaned my throttle body and egr. I checked my ignition coil and it was close to resistance limit so i replaced it. After replacing the coil it wouldn't start. I found that i had a broken wire at the harness connector at the distributor. I replaced that and it still won't start.

I have fuel (http://www.2carpros.com/forum/here-vp519617.html#) at the right pressure getting to the plugs, The plugs are firing and I have 150 psi compression in all 4 cylinders. I have check the engine timing to make sure the rotor is at number 1 when on the compression stroke. I have back probed the ecm and every single test is within specs (map, igniter & distributor pickup).

It will start but just barely like it's not hitting on all cylinders and will die. I even jumped the diagnostic connector but to avail. I back fires and acts like it's out of time. Any help would appreciated.
I got the Camry to start and run by removing the hold down bolt and advancing the timing beyond hold down point. I checked the cam position and the TDC and the valve timing is dead on. I have checked the distributor and comes out in specs and have tried another ECM I purchased from Ebay still does the same thing will only run with the timing advanced. The distributor is installed correctly with the rotor is pointing down to the #1 on the cap. Any ideas anyone ?

Just wondering is there a worm gear on the cam that could be mating up incorrectly to the distributor? I never had one apart so this is just a wild guess.

glad you posted back on your progress.

Looking through all the posts, and revewing the inspection procedure for the spark test, the only things remaining is to replace the igniter and then the distributor.

BTW, there is no worm gear. The distributor shaft end is keyed to the end of the primary camshaft and is offset to prevent installing it 180° out of phase.

Barring all of this, could it be possible that the EFI or other fuse has blown during all this electrical probing and wire checking? Truly perplexing....

It will start and run when you remove the hold down bolt and advance the distributor past the point where the bolt goes thru to hold the distributor. I took a distributor out of a 93 Camry that has the coil in the distributor (my coil is external ) and ran wire from my coil pig tail to the coil in the distributor. any way it did the same thing crank but wouldn't start and if i step on the gas it backfires. i tried advancing the new (used) distributor but couldn't go as far as the other because it hit the water housing as it's bigger and like the other it would almost start but backfire exactly the the other. theonly thing im left with is either the ecm i bought from ebay is bad in the same spot my original is or it's something to do with the distributor pig tail. i have check contiuity between the pig tail back to the ecm for all four wires all check out fine.

It will start and run when you remove the hold down bolt and advance the distributor past the point where the bolt goes thru to hold the distributor.

To me that screams timing. When you max+ the distributor adjustment, what does the timing read using a timing light? If it's running it should read somewhere around 10 BTDC. Beyond that, I'm stumped. You say the marks are aligned and the rotor is pointing at #1. What else is there? Try confirming #1 is at TDC the old fashion way. You can't put your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole so connect a compression gauge and make sure the pressure maxes at or near TDC as you rotate the engine using a breaker bar on the crank. When the pressure is maxed the timing marks should be at least close to aligned. See if that reveals anything. Maybe the crank or cam sprocket has slipped. Not sure if that can even happen.

To me that screams timing. When you max+ the distributor adjustment, what does the timing read using a timing light? If it's running it should read somewhere around 10 BTDC. Beyond that, I'm stumped. You say the marks are aligned and the rotor is pointing at #1. What else is there? Try confirming #1 is at TDC the old fashion way. You can't put your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole so connect a compression gauge and make sure the pressure maxes at or near TDC as you rotate the engine using a breaker bar on the crank. When the pressure is maxed the timing marks should be at least close to aligned. See if that reveals anything. Maybe the crank or cam sprocket has slipped. Not sure if that can even happen.
I know for a certain that the crank is at TDC and the cam is in it's proper place and the rotor points at #1. I guess i'm going to try another ecm from ebay as the cheapest rebuilt from auto parts store is abought $400.00 with ca sales tax.

i finally got it figured out. Daniel Dreifus was right. something kept bugging me the wire on the original pig tail was black and it was on the end of the pig tail but both all of the wiring diagrams and both pig tails i had including one off of a 93 camry showed the black wire in the middle. i found the original pig tail that i cut off and broke it apart to find the wire colors and they turned out to go different prongs on the distributor that the other pigtails and different than all of the wiring diagrams. Motors, Mitchell, Autozone & Haynes repair manuals all had it wrong. wow i i hadn't kept the old connector i doubt this would have ever got fixed. thanks for all the help. Dan

Great thread.

Did you try any of the electrical schematics posted at the top of this forum. My experience with Haynes manuals on Corollas and Camrys seem to be written for right side drive cars. Which places many of the components on the opposite side of the engine compartment. I was surprised by the number of manuals you sited having the electrical schematics wrong.

i went over every available wiring diagram including the 94 factory service manual that can be downloaded including Mitchell on demand i have on cd. the colors were exactly the same as my old pig tail but the order in the pigtail where they connected to the distributor were different. the diagrams and the actual pigtails i got were wired as

#1 red #2 blue #3 black #4 yellow

my camry's pigtail is wired as follows #1 red #2 yellow #3 blue #4 black

what threw me off originally was all the colors were the same so i mistakenly assumed they were all in the same order. the plastic connector itself even had the same part #. when i changed out the pigtail the first time i cut the wires flush at the connectors so i wasn't able to just look at the old one and tell the difference it wasn't until i cut my original apart that i discovered the my mistake.

i just looked at the 94 diagram and realized i made a mistake it clearly shows the ca emissions are wired different i will go back and look at the other diagrams i mentioned to see if i just looked at them wrong.

"i just looked at the 94 diagram and realized i made a mistake"

Which 94 diagram? The one in the downloadable factory service manual stickied at the top of this forum?

Mike