2005 4t45e which is the return cooler line
Ed_Strong
03-06-2009, 11:17 AM
I would like to do a tranny fluid exchange thru the cooler lines on this tranny. It goes something like this:
1. Disconnect return cooler line, run engine for a few seconds to drain old fluid from pan into a bucket.
2. Remove pan to replace filter, clean pan, magnet and seal.
3. Re-install pan, fill with new Dexron VI fluid and run engine for a few seconds again to drain rest of old fluid from Converter to bucket, repeat as needed to remove all the old fluid from the tranny.
4. Re-install cooler line, top off with fresh fluid and test drive looking for leaks.
Pretty simple procedure that I've used with success on other vehicles before. Only problem is that GM uses a single metal plate to secure both cooler hoses to tranny with one single nut in between making it difficult to flush out the fluid from cooler in the fluid exchange process.
I don't know which is the return line at the tranny side (I'm guessing it's the lower hose) and have not come up with an idea to keep the fluid outlet hose connected at the tranny side to make the fluid flow thru the cooler before it's expelled out the return hose into the waste bucket.
Anybody done this before or that have any ideas, suggestions or directions?
I've tried searching for links to images of hoe the cooler lines go into the tranny to no avail. I would like to familiarize my self with the tranny cooler system before I sink my theeth into it.
I will really appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.
1. Disconnect return cooler line, run engine for a few seconds to drain old fluid from pan into a bucket.
2. Remove pan to replace filter, clean pan, magnet and seal.
3. Re-install pan, fill with new Dexron VI fluid and run engine for a few seconds again to drain rest of old fluid from Converter to bucket, repeat as needed to remove all the old fluid from the tranny.
4. Re-install cooler line, top off with fresh fluid and test drive looking for leaks.
Pretty simple procedure that I've used with success on other vehicles before. Only problem is that GM uses a single metal plate to secure both cooler hoses to tranny with one single nut in between making it difficult to flush out the fluid from cooler in the fluid exchange process.
I don't know which is the return line at the tranny side (I'm guessing it's the lower hose) and have not come up with an idea to keep the fluid outlet hose connected at the tranny side to make the fluid flow thru the cooler before it's expelled out the return hose into the waste bucket.
Anybody done this before or that have any ideas, suggestions or directions?
I've tried searching for links to images of hoe the cooler lines go into the tranny to no avail. I would like to familiarize my self with the tranny cooler system before I sink my theeth into it.
I will really appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.
stuzman
03-09-2009, 07:58 PM
My procedure was a little different. Here is a link to what I did.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=941007&highlight=stuzman
The link describes a 2000 LeSabre. I did it right afterwards on a 2004 Impala LS which is exactly the same as far as initial and total refill capacity. The transmission is a 4T65E which is the same as the Buick. Same holds true for the supply and return lines as described next. The supply line from the transmission to the cooler is on the bottom of the cooler. Of course, the return line going back to the transmission is on the top side of the cooler.
Terry
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=941007&highlight=stuzman
The link describes a 2000 LeSabre. I did it right afterwards on a 2004 Impala LS which is exactly the same as far as initial and total refill capacity. The transmission is a 4T65E which is the same as the Buick. Same holds true for the supply and return lines as described next. The supply line from the transmission to the cooler is on the bottom of the cooler. Of course, the return line going back to the transmission is on the top side of the cooler.
Terry
Ed_Strong
03-09-2009, 08:08 PM
That is great stuzman, I was thinking I was all the only one trying to do this, very little info out there on this trannys in regards to images and illustrations.
xeroinfinity was giving me very good advice and directions on what works best and how to avoid trouble.
Like you I want to get rid of all the old Dexron III and replace it with Dexron VI. I also got the fluid from Walmart, you really can't beat their price!
If I'm following your instructions correctly, the only issue I see with your procedure is that by disconnecting the bottom line at the cooler (radiator side) will bring the old fluid from the tranny into the waste bucket, but will not allow the cooler to get flushed, leaving the old fluid still in it! How did you get around this?
According to the directions from xeroinfinity I am to remove the trans out, raditor in(top hose), from the radiator, and let that run into a bucket. I think your Impala has the 4t65 and maybe my 4t45e is different!
Another question... what's a 3/8" jiffy-tite removal tool? And how does it make it easier to remove the oil cooler line?
Looking at the cooler connections at the radiator all I see is a "half dollar" size flat washer encrusted into the plastic and then the line's nut securing the cooler line in place. That's new to me from the old style that needed 2 wrenches to undo the lines. So, I'm afraid to ruin the radiator by applying too much or the wrong force.
xeroinfinity was giving me very good advice and directions on what works best and how to avoid trouble.
Like you I want to get rid of all the old Dexron III and replace it with Dexron VI. I also got the fluid from Walmart, you really can't beat their price!
If I'm following your instructions correctly, the only issue I see with your procedure is that by disconnecting the bottom line at the cooler (radiator side) will bring the old fluid from the tranny into the waste bucket, but will not allow the cooler to get flushed, leaving the old fluid still in it! How did you get around this?
According to the directions from xeroinfinity I am to remove the trans out, raditor in(top hose), from the radiator, and let that run into a bucket. I think your Impala has the 4t65 and maybe my 4t45e is different!
Another question... what's a 3/8" jiffy-tite removal tool? And how does it make it easier to remove the oil cooler line?
Looking at the cooler connections at the radiator all I see is a "half dollar" size flat washer encrusted into the plastic and then the line's nut securing the cooler line in place. That's new to me from the old style that needed 2 wrenches to undo the lines. So, I'm afraid to ruin the radiator by applying too much or the wrong force.
stuzman
03-09-2009, 08:53 PM
That is great stuzman, I was thinking I was all the only one trying to do this, very little info out there on this trannys in regards to images and illustrations.
xeroinfinity was giving me very good advice and directions on what works best and how to avoid trouble.
Like you I want to get rid of all the old Dexron III and replace it with Dexron VI. I also got the fluid from Walmart, you really can't beat their price!
If I'm following your instructions correctly, the only issue I see with your procedure is that by disconnecting the bottom line at the cooler (radiator side) will bring the old fluid from the tranny into the waste bucket, but will not allow the cooler to get flushed, leaving the old fluid still in it! How did you get around this?
According to the directions from xeroinfinity I am to remove the trans out, raditor in(top hose), from the radiator, and let that run into a bucket. I think your Impala has the 4t65 and maybe my 4t45e is different!
Another question... what's a 3/8" jiffy-tite removal tool? And how does it make it easier to remove the oil cooler line?
Looking at the cooler connections at the radiator all I see is a "half dollar" size flat washer encrusted into the plastic and then the line's nut securing the cooler line in place. That's new to me from the old style that needed 2 wrenches to undo the lines. So, I'm afraid to ruin the radiator by applying too much or the wrong force.
To start with, on the Buick, I removed both cooler lines as instructed by Amsoil's website which was posted in the link. To my knowledge, some of the fluid did run out when the lower line was disconnected. Since nothing came out of the return line, except what was left in the line, I didn't bother disconnecting this line from the cooler on the Imapa which was the second time around. I just disconnected the bottom line from the cooler (supply side from transmission) and let the transmission pump it out. With the bottom line disconnected, the fluid in the cooler should just drain by gravity.
In the old days, the lines to the cooler were just fittings, (as you described) that could be removed with a wrench. Nowadays, the lines are held in with what's called a jiffy-tite connector. They are also used in the fuel systems. The connector is made up of a male and female side and comes in various sizes. The male side is on the tubing and the female is on the cooler. The assembly is held together by a small spring clip inside the female side. The half-dollar size washer as you describe it, is just a protective shield to keep the elements out. To separate the assembly, you'll begin by pulling the protective shield back. You'll notice that it appears that you can put a wrench on a nut like the good old days. DON'T, as this will damage the tubing. They do not turn. If you can look into the connector, you should be able to see the spring clip. The tool will help separate the connector by opening the spring and while the spring is open, pull straight back (away from the cooler). The tool makes it a LOT easier in opening the spring clip up for you. Some people open the spring with a pick-like tool, but if you can't see it, you'll need the tool. And it's possible, that you could damage the spring using this method. You can get it at any auto store. I was at Advance Auto and saw several different sizes. If your tubing is like mine, you'll need a 3/8" O.D. tool. Hope this helps you out and if you need any help, holler back. You can do a search and read a little more about jiffy-tite connectors on the Web.
Oh yes, one more last thought. I did have my helper turn the engine off, I believe four times. Even pouring two quarts at a time, I still wasn't able to pour in at a rate of what was being pumped out. Also, your trans may be different. You could always feel the lines at startup while the engine is cold to see which one was hot and the other a little cooler. If you have an IR temp gun, that would be a breeze. My guess is that the the supply would be on the bottom since maybe GM did it the same.
xeroinfinity was giving me very good advice and directions on what works best and how to avoid trouble.
Like you I want to get rid of all the old Dexron III and replace it with Dexron VI. I also got the fluid from Walmart, you really can't beat their price!
If I'm following your instructions correctly, the only issue I see with your procedure is that by disconnecting the bottom line at the cooler (radiator side) will bring the old fluid from the tranny into the waste bucket, but will not allow the cooler to get flushed, leaving the old fluid still in it! How did you get around this?
According to the directions from xeroinfinity I am to remove the trans out, raditor in(top hose), from the radiator, and let that run into a bucket. I think your Impala has the 4t65 and maybe my 4t45e is different!
Another question... what's a 3/8" jiffy-tite removal tool? And how does it make it easier to remove the oil cooler line?
Looking at the cooler connections at the radiator all I see is a "half dollar" size flat washer encrusted into the plastic and then the line's nut securing the cooler line in place. That's new to me from the old style that needed 2 wrenches to undo the lines. So, I'm afraid to ruin the radiator by applying too much or the wrong force.
To start with, on the Buick, I removed both cooler lines as instructed by Amsoil's website which was posted in the link. To my knowledge, some of the fluid did run out when the lower line was disconnected. Since nothing came out of the return line, except what was left in the line, I didn't bother disconnecting this line from the cooler on the Imapa which was the second time around. I just disconnected the bottom line from the cooler (supply side from transmission) and let the transmission pump it out. With the bottom line disconnected, the fluid in the cooler should just drain by gravity.
In the old days, the lines to the cooler were just fittings, (as you described) that could be removed with a wrench. Nowadays, the lines are held in with what's called a jiffy-tite connector. They are also used in the fuel systems. The connector is made up of a male and female side and comes in various sizes. The male side is on the tubing and the female is on the cooler. The assembly is held together by a small spring clip inside the female side. The half-dollar size washer as you describe it, is just a protective shield to keep the elements out. To separate the assembly, you'll begin by pulling the protective shield back. You'll notice that it appears that you can put a wrench on a nut like the good old days. DON'T, as this will damage the tubing. They do not turn. If you can look into the connector, you should be able to see the spring clip. The tool will help separate the connector by opening the spring and while the spring is open, pull straight back (away from the cooler). The tool makes it a LOT easier in opening the spring clip up for you. Some people open the spring with a pick-like tool, but if you can't see it, you'll need the tool. And it's possible, that you could damage the spring using this method. You can get it at any auto store. I was at Advance Auto and saw several different sizes. If your tubing is like mine, you'll need a 3/8" O.D. tool. Hope this helps you out and if you need any help, holler back. You can do a search and read a little more about jiffy-tite connectors on the Web.
Oh yes, one more last thought. I did have my helper turn the engine off, I believe four times. Even pouring two quarts at a time, I still wasn't able to pour in at a rate of what was being pumped out. Also, your trans may be different. You could always feel the lines at startup while the engine is cold to see which one was hot and the other a little cooler. If you have an IR temp gun, that would be a breeze. My guess is that the the supply would be on the bottom since maybe GM did it the same.
Ed_Strong
03-10-2009, 12:13 AM
Thanks a lot for the info, I feel a little more confident now to tackle this project! My PC keeps locking up everytime I try to open the PDF link to Amsoil so I haven't been able to read it yet.
I'm gonna see if my local AutoZone still loans tools so I can get this Jiffy-Tite tool for next weekend.
I'm gonna see if my local AutoZone still loans tools so I can get this Jiffy-Tite tool for next weekend.
Colt Hero
03-10-2009, 08:48 PM
I've done this same flush procedure on my '97 Taurus, except after pulling the return cooler line (I believe it was), pumping out, then emptying the pan, I overfilled with 10 qts of fluid (Ford manual actually specified to do this). Then I pumped out again with the hose extending the line into a bucket. It worked out perfectly with the black fluid turning red right on que!
When it was time to do the same thing with my '02 Impala, I instead opted for just dropping the pan and replacing what was in there. You've got an '05 and could probably do the same thing. As long as your cooling system has been working OK, your tranny fluid should be OK. That was the problem with my Taurus - the cooling system got all gunked up and the tranny fluid got burnt. Lesson learned for me...
When it was time to do the same thing with my '02 Impala, I instead opted for just dropping the pan and replacing what was in there. You've got an '05 and could probably do the same thing. As long as your cooling system has been working OK, your tranny fluid should be OK. That was the problem with my Taurus - the cooling system got all gunked up and the tranny fluid got burnt. Lesson learned for me...
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