Rear AC Line leaking
jtmarten
02-07-2009, 04:49 PM
I recharged the AC on my '96 K2500, and one of the rear lines is leaking. I've seen 'patch' kits to replace the bad section. How well do these work? Is the replacement line a dealer-only part? I haven't been able to locate the rear AC line online.
Thanks!
Thanks!
MT-2500
02-07-2009, 05:14 PM
You GM dealer should be able to run the vin and get the line.
What kind metal is the line and where is it leaking?
A good air condition place may be able to make up a new line or may have a splice depending on the line and where it is leaking.
What kind metal is the line and where is it leaking?
A good air condition place may be able to make up a new line or may have a splice depending on the line and where it is leaking.
jtmarten
02-07-2009, 07:13 PM
Its leaking right up inside the wheel well. My son thought the tire had a hole in it.:icon16:
brcidd
02-07-2009, 07:48 PM
rear a/c line (if factory installed and not an upfitter) is dealer item- comes in two 6 ft pieces instead of the one 12 footer on your van-- sit down when they price it for you....
I have used swageloks to splice the smaller 3/8 liquid line many times- they work well-- you may also consider and inline filter- not because you want the filter- but because you want its splicing ability- I've done that a few times as well....
I have used swageloks to splice the smaller 3/8 liquid line many times- they work well-- you may also consider and inline filter- not because you want the filter- but because you want its splicing ability- I've done that a few times as well....
MT-2500
02-08-2009, 08:08 AM
Its leaking right up inside the wheel well. My son thought the tire had a hole in it.:icon16:
You need to find right where it is leaking.
Could be a line pin hole or O ring where it couples on or even farther up.
If the line itself Brcidd has got it covered.
Also ACkits.com is a good AC parts and repair link
Good luck
You need to find right where it is leaking.
Could be a line pin hole or O ring where it couples on or even farther up.
If the line itself Brcidd has got it covered.
Also ACkits.com is a good AC parts and repair link
Good luck
j cAT
02-08-2009, 09:34 AM
I recharged the AC on my '96 K2500, and one of the rear lines is leaking. I've seen 'patch' kits to replace the bad section. How well do these work? Is the replacement line a dealer-only part? I haven't been able to locate the rear AC line online.
Thanks!
since this an older vehicle after finding the leak and you now know what is needed call a scrap yard to get the part...going to the dealer is insane..
Thanks!
since this an older vehicle after finding the leak and you now know what is needed call a scrap yard to get the part...going to the dealer is insane..
Cusser
02-08-2009, 01:56 PM
rear a/c line (if factory installed and not an upfitter) is dealer item- comes in two 6 ft pieces instead of the one 12 footer on your van-- sit down when they price it for you....
I have used swageloks to splice the smaller 3/8 liquid line many times- they work well-- you may also consider and inline filter- not because you want the filter- but because you want its splicing ability- I've done that a few times as well....
We use Swagelok brand connectors at work for tiny molecule gases like hydrogen and helium, they work great. They come in a variety of metals, so match to your line metal content. They also come in both standard and metric sizes. Don't use connections from the hardwre store designed for water systems, they don't work well for this. Personally. if you can cut out the bad section of metal tubing with a small tubing cutter, I'd try the Swagelok myself first. I just replaced a dual-air 1994 Sub AC compressor manifold and that part was $200 at CarQuest. The idea of splicing in an in-line filter is good too.
I have used swageloks to splice the smaller 3/8 liquid line many times- they work well-- you may also consider and inline filter- not because you want the filter- but because you want its splicing ability- I've done that a few times as well....
We use Swagelok brand connectors at work for tiny molecule gases like hydrogen and helium, they work great. They come in a variety of metals, so match to your line metal content. They also come in both standard and metric sizes. Don't use connections from the hardwre store designed for water systems, they don't work well for this. Personally. if you can cut out the bad section of metal tubing with a small tubing cutter, I'd try the Swagelok myself first. I just replaced a dual-air 1994 Sub AC compressor manifold and that part was $200 at CarQuest. The idea of splicing in an in-line filter is good too.
jtmarten
02-17-2009, 06:52 AM
Thanks to all for the great info! I'll check to see if I'll get lucky and its just an o-ring.
brcidd
02-17-2009, 07:13 AM
I've never been lucky enough to have it be an o-ring- besides- the only connections are at the rear evap- which is usually a sealing washer and manifold, and up near the front which may be an o-ring- but it is up near the frame rail in engine compartment. Most of the time, the leak is in behind a rubber gromet- that has a steel band around it that holds the line(s) in place. Corrosion builds up between the dissimilar metals and soon a leak appears- Most common area is the gromet in front of the rear wheel.
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