NO SPARK........89 Bronco

89 Bronco
302 5.0L

I have no spark at all. I have been researching this on these forums and have followed the suggestions. Here is what I have done.....

Changed spark plugs and wires...no fix
Changed Cap/Rotor.....no fix
Changed E-coil.....no fix
Pulled distributor and tested the TFI and stator, also tested the new parts for each that I had bought ( and returned ) got the same numbers on the everything. Put distributor back on, still no spark.

So, I guess the next thing would be the ECM? I am ready to start pulling my hair out, lol. How can I test the ECM?

I appreciate you folks here, you have helped me a lot in the past and now I am turning to you for some more wisdom. I am at a loss.

~C

Have you tested to make sure that the coil, and TFI are receiving voltage ?

When you had the distributor out did you check the drive gear to make sure that the gear pin had not sheered ?

Just some thoughts.

I would check to see if you are getting electric power to the coil from the ignition switch. You will need to buy an inexpensive test light if you don't have one. Pull that connecter off the coil that has two small wires running into it. TURN THE IGNITION SWTCH ON, take the test light and check for power coming through those small wires, only one wire should have power coming through it as the other wire goes from the other side of the coil to the distributor after it is hooked on. Make sure the test light has a good ground when testing.

When you had the distributor out did you check the drive gear to make sure that the gear pin had not sheered ?


That's a good point, but that can be checked with the distributor installed by vigorously trying to turn the rotor by hand. Also make sure the rotor turns when the engine does to check for a sheared timing gear or broken timing chain. Be careful when doing this so you don't break the rotor.

Thank you for responding so quickly. Those are very good points. I have done all that.

Both wire harnesses to the Coil and TFI module have power. I just am not getting power past the coil. Although I replaced the coil, doesn't mean that IT isn't bad. I am hopefully going to take it to autozone and have it tested, both old and new. The coil wire itself is good, I tested it, at least for continuity.

Another question that I have is, if the ECU is the culprit, will my Bronco have power to everything else? Lights, radio, blinkers etc. etc and cranks over all work, just no spark. I was under the impression that if the ECU is toast, the whole vehicle is a fish outa water.

~C

Take a 12 volt test light put it on the coil negative then have somebody crank the vehicle. The test light should blink. If it doesn't check if the coil positive has 12 volt. The pickup in the distributor is what pulses the coil. If it blinks pull the module on the side of the distributor and pull it.
Advance Auto and Auto Zone will check these free.
Use an ohm meter and place it on the top of the rotor put the other end on the tip check for continuity. Look at the inside of the distributor cap for damage. Watch and make sure the rotor moves when cranking.

OK, problem solved ! Thanks to all of you who responded and gave good advice.

The issue was with my TFI module that connects to my distributor. My neighbor and I tested it, but evidently we had no clue what we were doing. Auto Zone bench tested it and failed. It has to pass 8 series of testes and if 1 fails, it is bad. Replaced it and all is good so far.

Thanks again guys, I really do appreciate it.

~C

i've got the same problem with a 96 with the 302 as well no spark have changed the coil module just what is the tfi and where is it and how can it be checked ok alot of qquestions but like i said am having the same issues but when i check for power with a test light at the coil i have power at both terminals but when i crank it over the neg does not flash what does that mean? I'm not non mechanical i just don't know too much about these newer vehicles and all the electrical systems been working on equipment too long i suppose

You have a pickup in the distributor this is what pulses the coil. You can either purchase a rebuilt distributor or change the pickup.
Use yahoo search Thexton distributor tool Ford
You need a tool like this to replace the module. I've have noticed them in some parts stores but not many. It is probably cheaper to purchase a rebuilt distributor. A scrap yard is another option.

ok thanks is there a way to test the distributer out before makeing the decision to replace it just want to makes sure that it is the problem before putting more money into this thing

i've got the same problem with a 96 with the 302 as well no spark have changed the coil module just what is the tfi and where is it and how can it be checked ok alot of qquestions but like i said am having the same issues but when i check for power with a test light at the coil i have power at both terminals but when i crank it over the neg does not flash what does that mean? I'm not non mechanical i just don't know too much about these newer vehicles and all the electrical systems been working on equipment too long i suppose

The original poster on this thread had a 1989, his tfi(I call it the ignition module) was mounted on the side of the distributor. On the 1989 you needed a special tool to R&R the tfi. Starting in 1992 they moved the ignition module to the driver's side fenderwell. You should be able to remove your ignition module from the fenderwell with regular hand tools and take it to an automotive parts store and have it tested.

ok thanks is there a way to test the distributer out before makeing the decision to replace it just want to makes sure that it is the problem before putting more money into this thing

Yes. You can pull the distributor and take it to a Ford dealer and they should be able to test it very easily. If the PIP in the distributor does prove to be bad, I would strongly suggest you try to get someone to install a new PIP in your old distributor. I have learned from reading forums like this, that rebuilt distributors have a notorious bad reputation. Be sure to take the proper steps before removing your distributor so you can get it properly installed back in time, close enough so you can start it and fine tune it with a timing light.

I checked the pickup the way he did with a 12 volt test light. If the coil positive had 12 volt. When cranking the test light should blink when cranking if it is on the coil negative.
I used a tool like the one suggested made by Thexton. Napa Echlin Standard or Motorcraft made the parts.
I think at this time Napa uses Standard. I would stay away from some of the cheap brands.
A dealer would charge charge $100.00 shop time. It would be cheaper to buy the tool and a new Motorcraft part.
You have to pull the pin in the gear. Then push the shaft out to change it.
I've tried to drive the shaft out and it wanted to mushroom.
Auto Zone or Advanced will check the module free if you take it in the store.