Power Steering Pump R&R

1994 Suburban, 2WD, 5.7 liter, power steering pump has been leaking for a while.
(1) Anybody know how many flat-rate hours R&R would be?
(2) If I can get loaner pulley remover and installer tools from AutoZone, how tough are they to use?
(3) Is replacing the PS pump a difficult home mechanic job?

1994 Suburban, 2WD, 5.7 liter, power steering pump has been leaking for a while.
(1) Anybody know how many flat-rate hours R&R would be?
(2) If I can get loaner pulley remover and installer tools from AutoZone, how tough are they to use?
(3) Is replacing the PS pump a difficult home mechanic job?

have you tried a stop leak product ? I have had good success with bars power steering seal conditioner with many GM vehicles...just add to full mark and if necessary top off a week later ...this usually does it...

If the fluid is old it helps after the leak is corrected to flush out the old fluid,,,,this is usually why they start to leak...

have you tried a stop leak product ? I have had good success with bars power steering seal conditioner with many GM vehicles...just add to full mark and if necessary top off a week later ...this usually does it...

If the fluid is old it helps after the leak is corrected to flush out the old fluid,,,,this is usually why they start to leak...

I haven't tried the stop leak within the past two years. If you say you had good success with Bars Leaks, I'll go with your recommendation and try some. I spent about 4 hours today replacing my AC manifold (dual air), pulling vacuum, replacing the R134a. Some of those fittings were super tight, but I think I did a good job. Other than the tightness of two connections, and figuring out how to fit the three lines in correctly (the geometry), toughest part was (really) taking the front grille off, GM didn't make that easy. Most grille fittings used 10mm or 7mm socket, but there were two underneath that still took 1/4 inch socket...

are you sure it's the pump? i would check the seal behind the pitman arm where it go's in sterring gear box and have you looked at lines screwing in to radiator sometims there hard to see when it screws in rad. but you know your truck better than i do as for the power steering leaking. no harm intended.....good luck to you....

I haven't tried the stop leak within the past two years. If you say you had good success with Bars Leaks, I'll go with your recommendation and try some. I spent about 4 hours today replacing my AC manifold (dual air), pulling vacuum, replacing the R134a. Some of those fittings were super tight, but I think I did a good job. Other than the tightness of two connections, and figuring out how to fit the three lines in correctly (the geometry), toughest part was (really) taking the front grille off, GM didn't make that easy. Most grille fittings used 10mm or 7mm socket, but there were two underneath that still took 1/4 inch socket...

Anything to report back yet?

have you tried a stop leak product ? I have had good success with bars power steering seal conditioner with many GM vehicles...just add to full mark and if necessary top off a week later ...this usually does it...

If the fluid is old it helps after the leak is corrected to flush out the old fluid,,,,this is usually why they start to leak...

How do you flush out the old fluid? Especially the steering box?

Anything to report back yet?

Nope. On the 19th I replaced the AC compressor manifold lines (leaking on high side line), pulled vacuum, replaced the R134a. Next will be the brake master cylinder, because apparently no one (even dealer) sells replacement rubber grommets for between the reservoir and the cylinder, where it's leaking. These seem to leak after about 2 years for me, got the last replacement for free, now will need to purchase a lifetime-guaranteed one. I've actually thought about just replacing the seals with those from the new one. I'll look further at PS while I do that job.

On my '88 Mazda B2200, dealer sells rubber grommets for that, and I've replaced those too. I use name brand DOT 4 fluid.

Next will be the brake master cylinder, because apparently no one (even dealer) sells replacement rubber grommets for between the reservoir and the cylinder, where it's leaking. These seem to leak after about 2 years for me, got the last replacement for free, now will need to purchase a lifetime-guaranteed one. I've actually thought about just replacing the seals with those from the new one.

On my '88 Mazda B2200, dealer sells rubber grommets for that, and I've replaced those too. I use name brand DOT 4 fluid.

I have never had any brake fluid leaks in this area...My vehicles are kept over 10years...I only use dot3 fluid...and bleed the brakes/fluid every brake job...also I never take the res cover off unless its time to add fluid after /during bleed ....dot3/4 is supposed to be compatible and you can interchange these fluids but maybe there is a problem with the seals on some vehicles...

How do you flush out the old fluid? Especially the steering box?

suck out the P/S res..then disconnect the return line going to pump...with both wheels off the ground run engine turn wheels and fliud will drain out from the return hose. connect the return hose ..then fill res. and turn wheels and continue to do this untill res is full..

wait about 1/2 hour for the air bubbles to settle out and with the front wheels off the ground turn wheels fully right/left until the pump is quiet...no air bubbles and res is full..

if this is done with wheels on ground pump will get damaged

it's not that bad of a job. The hardest part is getting the pulley off the shaft of the PS pump and then re-installing the pulley. I would avoid any stop-leak products. Also I don't think its a good idea to have the engine running as described in the above drain senario unless you meant to say turn wheels and stop engine. Yes you need to place the front end on jack stands when you install the new pump so you can fill the resivor and turn the wheels slowly back and forth to the left and right while no weight on the front tires.

it's not that bad of a job. The hardest part is getting the pulley off the shaft of the PS pump and then re-installing the pulley. I would avoid any stop-leak products. Also I don't think its a good idea to have the engine running as described in the above drain senario unless you meant to say turn wheels and stop engine. Yes you need to place the front end on jack stands when you install the new pump so you can fill the resivor and turn the wheels slowly back and forth to the left and right while no weight on the front tires.

mr elbert the proceedure is what is written in the OEM manual for this repair/replace of p/s pump/fluid/////...

you have to have the engine/p/s rotating to do this...

also p/s stop leak if its a seal shinkage, usually works...only one time in 1974 I had a p/s seal leak, that the sealer did not stop. it was not installed correctly and had a cut in it...1973 chev.

I'm sure he has this all repaired by now anyway....

I'm sure he has this all repaired by now anyway....

Actually, I haven't repaired all this by now, sorry. Today I replaced the 94 Sub's brake master cylinder reservoir and the new reservoir-to-cylinder new from the new MC I bought (with lifetime warranty). The two-year old seals were crappy, and hard; rebuild kits don't include these seals either. Hopefully that will take care of the brake fluid leak, or I'll swap it out for a brand-new one and install the whole thing; today I was able to avoid bleeding the brakes as there was still brake fluid in the recesses when I installed the new reservoir seals so no air got in. I had to take that route as dentist called and had an opening for me today at 11am; I also replaced the seals for the oil cooler adapter where it mates to the engine block, and changed the oil. As to the power steering system, it still has fluid, and it apprears that the lifetime-warranty high pressure power steering line is leaking at its crimp AGAIN. So I'll need to swap that out again. The 3-line AC manifold for that Sub that I replaced a month ago (dual air) seems to be holding refrigerant, good news.

After the dentist I swapped out a water pump in my '98 Frontier. Busy day. No cavities. Back to "work" tomorrow.

mr elbert the proceedure is what is written in the OEM manual for this repair/replace of p/s pump/fluid/////...

you have to have the engine/p/s rotating to do this...

also p/s stop leak if its a seal shinkage, usually works...only one time in 1974 I had a p/s seal leak, that the sealer did not stop. it was not installed correctly and had a cut in it...1973 chev.

I'm sure he has this all repaired by now anyway....

stop leak products are just a temp solution if they work! If you are wanting to swap the fluid out of the P/s and you run the engine during the process and as a result you run the P/s pump dry of fluid you are going to be buying a new P/s pump. If someone is not very knowldegable about cars then they might not be aware of this.

I'm aware of what the process is. I'm also aware of precautions and reasonable advice offered to someone who posts a question about how to perform a basic repair. I assume that if you need to ask how to do this...you may or may not have that much experience doing this type of repair.