99 Taurus Trunk Key

The key for the ignition doesn't work to open the trunk. Just wondering if the 99 Taurus has a separate key for the trunk or is the ignition key supposed to double for that also?? Thanks!!

Brian

It should be the same key unless one lock was replaced. Most likely the ignition was replaced.

Thanks for the info!

Any way to get a trunk key, such as taking a number off the truck lock assembly and taking to Ford?? Or using the VIN for the trunk key info?? The trunk release button on the dash works, but always good to have a key when electronics fails!!

For the time being you could just remove the lock assembly, pull all the tumblers out, and go that route. It would still look like a lock, but pretty much anything could open the trunk.

Have you tried spraying some penetrating lube in the lock to make sure it's not just that the lock is seized up? If you find it is seized, you will want to apply a greasless lubricant in the lock such as powdered graphite. Just be careful where you put the keys immediately afterwards as the graphite can make a real mess out of a pair of light khaki pants.

-Rod

Yea I kinda think it may be seized up. The key only goes in about halfway and that's it. Tried spraying some WD40 in the key hole, I'll let it sit awhile and try again. If not I'll take the plastic cover off tomorrow and see what the tumblers look like. At least at this time the trunk release button on the dash works, but as I said, electronics can fail and then what??

Brian

If the key only goes in halfway, it does sound like seized tumblers.

If the trunk release solenoid fails before you get the key issue fixed, you should be able to access the trunk through the folding rear seat. You'd at least be able to get the trunk lid open that way to replace the latch.

-Rod

Yea the key only goes halfway in and hits a block. I took the ignition key from the 99 Taurus and tried it on the trunk of my 2007 Taurus. It goes all the way in, just won't turn, so I assume with that it's not the wrong key, but the tumblers are froze. I took the plastic cover off the inside of the trunk to look at the lock assembly, but it's getting VERY cold here in Michigan and didn't want to fiddle with removing it today. There'll be a better day to do that! Looks like you have to remove the red plastic on the outside of the trunk to get access to remove the lock--too many nuts to remove today! I'll just drop most of them!

Brian

For the time being you could just remove the lock assembly, pull all the tumblers out, and go that route. It would still look like a lock, but pretty much anything could open the trunk.

Have you tried spraying some penetrating lube in the lock to make sure it's not just that the lock is seized up? If you find it is seized, you will want to apply a greasless lubricant in the lock such as powdered graphite. Just be careful where you put the keys immediately afterwards as the graphite can make a real mess out of a pair of light khaki pants.

-Rod

OK removed the lock assembly today. Have sprayed WD40 inside and out and still the key only goes halfway in. Don't want to force too much and break the key off! Also tapped on the lock with a hammer to possible free up the tumblers.

With the lock removed how do I remove the tumblers?? Looking at the lock from the inside I see a spring that could be removed. Don't see how I can get inside it from the key side. Feel kinda dumb here!!

Brian

I've only changed tumblers on door locks, not on a trunk so I'm not 100% positive, but suspect it's similar to door locks.

On the door locks there is a little metal cover that you can pop loose to access the tumblers. Be warned though that there are springs just under that metal cover, so as soon as you release the cover, if you are not applying some pressure to the cover, springs may go flying. Below the springs will be some brass spacer cylinders, and below those will be the tumblers.

You could pull the springs and spacers, then try to insert the key and see if how many tumblers are moving. You might also be able to see what's causing the obstruction once you get that deep in to the lock as well.

Going off of memory, the metal cover I'm referring to is about 4 mm wide by 3 mm tall by 15 mm long and I believe it just snaps in place.

-Rod

Doesn't look like this is similar. The lock assembly itself seems to be attached to an adapter that bolts the whole assembly to the trunk lid. Need to see if I can find out how to unattach the lock assembly, then maybe I can find that cover you're talking about. Looks like maybe a spring pin may be it, but have to wait until tomorrow morning to get outside and find a small punch. Sure wish I could just get the inards freed up, but seems to be pretty tight!!

If the same key works in both I would think the lock assemblies would be similar, but what do I know!!

Brian

If you choose to pull the pumbler pin cover, cup your hands over it on a cleared flat surface, maybe even the biggest cookie sheet with 4 sides you have and a light colored floor (to find any projectiles) when you pop the cover off. A clear isolation chamber would be nice but who has one of those? :) Instead, why not put the whole cylinder body in a ziplok baggy and soak it for awhile in a penetrating oil. Kerosene or diesel might even work followed by WD-40. WD-40 can also be bought in bulk or just get some cheap Walmart spray. Then run the key from your 99 in it real rough in and out. Then be a little aggressive with the correct key. I'd stick the key in and then turn it upside down to tap the end of the key on something like a piece of wood while grasping it by the cylinder body. That way you can feel how soft or hard you are tapping it that you wouldn't be able to sense as well as with a hammer. It might be worth while to buy a blank key that fits it to work those pins loose. I believe it would be easier to push in as only one pin at a time has to be pushed up at a time. Then they will just slide along the smooth face of the key and not bump against any more pins, thereby only requiring only the forsce necessary to raise one pin at a time and less likely for the pins to catch as the key continues past them. Also, a blank is much less likely to break and you definitely don't want your good key to break. Then, when you have it working you can take the blank back to where you got it and then you can get the key cut, since you already paid for that. Good luck.

My key stopped working in the passenger door and the trunk. I have two spare keys that almost never get used that also didn't turn them, so I knew it wasn't the key wearing down. I took out the trunk lock and could see that one of the pins wasn't moving out fully when the key was inserted. I took both to a local locksmith, and since they were already out of the car and no new keys needed to be made, they only charged me $18 to clean the locks and replace a couple of the pins. I took all the keys with me to make sure they all worked before leaving the shop. Putting the trunk lock back, I didn't have any pop-rivets of the right size, so I used some sheetmetal screws till the next time I restock my rivets.

Taurus going back to my daughter-in-law so put this project on hold. Put the lock back in and hopefully will be warmer here in Michigan when I try again. Thanks for the good advice from all. Will try these ideas, or just go to the local junkyard and remove one from one of the many older Taurus's sitting out there. Just have to make sure he has a key for it!!! Have already taken a few parts from one same year and color--very handy!!

Brian

Change in plans--the car went in to get the ignition switch changed so I took the trunk lock assembly back out and it's now soaking in kerosene for the night. Purchased two Ford keys and didn't have them cut, just the stock to use as ramming devices after soaking the lock. Hopefully have some positive news on this later, what's the worst that can happen--I ruin the lock?? Already there as it is!!

Brian

Good news-bad news!
Good news, soaked in kersosene on and off all weekend. Bought a blank key and tapped to free up the tumblers. Sprayed with some WD40 and goes in and out fairly well now.

Bad news, went outside and got the ignition key and it slid in very nicely. Only problem is it doesn't want to unlock it! Don't want to get too crazy with it as I think it's the only one.

If the tumblers are freed up now and if the key is correct should it turn fairly easily now?? If I take the lock to Ford's can they get a number off it to get the correct key??

Brian

Went to the Ford dealer and they said without disassembling the lock and observing the tumblers they can't just order a key for a particular lock assembly. No such number on the outside of the lock to get a key code from. Also they said with the VIN they could order a lock kit that would come disassembled and I would have to assemble the tumblers to match the ignition key.

Looks like a trip to our local auto junk yard to take one off one of their Taurus. Will have two separate keys, but we all used to have that a few years ago anyhow!

Poppy cock!
Maybe the 99 locks are different than my 95, but when I bought it used from a Ford dealer they failed to supply the rear glass/liftgate key (st. wagon). I called and said HEY, what gives? If I could come up with a special code that came with the original stuff you get when you by it new from the dealer, like an owners card, you could give that to the dealer, maybe a locksmith and they could cut the key from that. Downside for me was no card, code, nothing. I got lucky and figure out how to contact the original dealer who has the code for key!!! I was then able to get the key made. I'm not sure about the ignition key or cylinder.

However, what I was thinking, is your tumbler pins are able to move up, but not all of them are dropping down where they need to be when your key is fully in, so the cylinder is not able to turn. This is just like you blank key pushing the pins up too high. I think you have some stuck pins. It may be worth calling a locksmith if one is close to see if he could inexpensively fix it. Or, keep on soaking it. I do also think you can get a brand new lock from the aftermarket stores. A locksmith can also rekey or key it like your original. Isn't there a cover on the top of the cylinder that you could pry off? May be worth it. That's what a locksmith would do to fix what you have.

tripletdaddy,
Thanks for all the good info! I don't see any such cover to pry off, but the lock itself is still connected to a part that attaches the assembly to the trunk lid. Don't see how they come apart, although they should. That is probably the only way to get to your cover.

I have an easier solution I think. A couple miles from my house is a huge auto salvage yard. Been there a few times already for some parts for this car. I'm sure I can get the whole trunk lock assembly--think I know how to remove now--for cheaper than a locksmith or new lock. Just have to be sure the key with the vehicle works the lock!! Only setback is there will be two keys to carry around, but we did that for many years before all the keys matched!

I think you are correct in your assumption about the tumblers. Pretty sure the key is going all the way in now, and her ignition key goes in and out very freely. However don't think the tumblers are moving or dropping. When you insert the key in the door you can feel and hear a little resistance as the tumblers get moved. Don't really hear or feel that on this lock, just pretty much straight in. Will keep soaking this one, but in the meantime will get one at the salvage yard so she has something. If I get the original one working she can go back to one key instead of two!!

Brian

Sounds like you are up to where I am with my 99 Taurus trunk lock. Sometimes the key works, sometimes not. Penetrating spray seems to help for a while, but you've already taken care of that. I seem to get more success the next time I need to open it if I really slam the trunk when closing it.

Mac2002,
Unfortunately you're beyond where I am!! I have not been able to get the key to work once yet. In fact I'm not positive it is even the correct key. My daughter-in-law bought the car used and who knows what key works in the trunk!! Still soaking in kerosene for a few days and will keep trying!

Brian

I had a similar issue with my 98 Taurus. I ended up taking the lock out of the truck deck, and sprayed the crap out of it with electrical contact cleaner. It was amazing the amount of soot, dirt, and crap that came out. Then I went after it with the wd-40. It took awhile to work at it with the key to break the tumblers loose to operate the lock. It will break loose, just keep at it. If I recall I had to switch back and forth beween the contact cleaner and wd-40. Once it broke loose, I cleaned it again real well with the contact cleaner, let it dry out and then re-lubricated it with graphite. I haven't had a problem with it since, that was 2 years ago. I did the same thing with my door locks without taking them out of the door and no problems with either the lock seizing or the interior light problem coming back. That electrical contact cleaner works wonders. :) Good luck.

Could someone confirm for bcsman what key or keys operate the trunk lock? Does just one key do doors, ignition and trunk for a 99? I know for the 95 and earlier station wagon, a second key was needed to open the liftgate, the glass hatch on the gate and the glovebox. However, it was like the old Ford key system where it has a round head and its cross section is opposite that of the door/ign key so they can't go in the wrong lock.

Bcsman, is there anyway to figure out if you even have the original or a replacement lock? You'd think if you can identify it as a Ford lock, it would be the original one, but that's not a guarrantee. Any chance of asking the previous owner?

I guess fordfool answered the question that there is only one key, though if the most likely key lock replaced he said is the ignition, than shouldn't the doors and trunk not work with the different ignition key? I thought the ignition and doors do work with the same key. So, does the trunk have a different lock and key?

My 98 Taurus uses one key for ignition lock, doors, trunk, and glovebox, always has. If one changes out the ignition lock, it goes with out saying that the doors and trunk would remain on the old key. I've not heard of cars having two separate keys for a number of years. It was my understanding that most cars today only have one key for all locks on the car.

Hey guys,
The ignition key works fine in both the door locks, so as has been said if anything was changed it would have been the trunk lock. Still not working but I have to get some contact cleaner to try. I'm sure it is a Ford lock and probably original, but not sure. The car was bought from a guy who purchases donated cars and fixes them up to sell so pretty impossible to ask the previous owner about it!!

It seems as tho the tumblers are froze 'cuz when I push the key in there isn't much resistance. When I use the key on a door you can feel the key push against the tumblers. Just needs some more loving care I guess!!

Brian