Fuel gauge quit working

I`ve had this problem for a while but it`s time to fix it. What is the best way to find out if it`s the fuel sending unit in the gas tank or if it`s the fuel gauge in my instrument panel? Is there a test I can do to make sure which one it is? Sometimes the gauge will move after disconnecting the battery and reconnecting. Any ideas before I start buying parts I don`t need? :confused:

I`ve been to the dealer with other problems only to be quoted hundreds of dollars to fix something and then I bring it home and spend a fraction to repair it myself.

The easiest method is to isolate the sending unit from the tank and install a fixed or variable resistor in the circuit (on the purple/white and black wires, IIRC). A 40 ohm or lower resistance should register as an empty tank on the dash gauge, while a 240 ohm or higher resistance should register as a full tank.

You can review this thread for assistance:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4392502

If the gauge operates normally with varying resistance applied to the connector at the fuel tank, the problem is likely the level sender in the tank. If the gauge still operates erratically with this test, the problem is likely a connection forward of the tank, the instrument cluster logic, or the VCM.

I know a common problem we have is the sender fails. but the gauge normal still reads Full or empty, not just dead. SO I'd def. do what he said.

Ok, thanks! Going to change out my pads and rotors and install a wheel bearing assembly kit and THEN, I`ll go to work on the gas gauge problem. After that, all my problems will be solved (hope, hope).