Few question 1999 Chevy Astro Van
keico2010
10-29-2008, 10:40 AM
I posted earlier concerning a transmission problem i had, and am glad to say the problem is fixed. I wanted to thank all the advice I received.
I own a 1999 Chevy Atro Van 8th vin digit is "W" 4.3liter V6 engine with 4l60e transmission.
Ok first question.
I love this van and how it is a one time crank start.
For a few months now it seemed to take more than one crank to start.
I recently changed oil and spark plugs. Cap & Rotor & Wires are good.
After this it would not start. Finally I hit it with some carb cleaner and it fired right up. And ran great as it always has.
However I am concerned about the difficulty starting. I changed the fuel pressure switch to no avail.
I have heard that the euel pump could be the culprit, but I have to run a fuel pressure test to see how much pressure I am getting.
My question is if the fuel pressure is not what it is suppose to be would using a rebuild kit work just as good. The reason I ask is because the price for a new pump is ridiculous, where are the rebuild kit is more reasonable.
Here is the link to the rebuild kit off of ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160283871045&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=
As you can see the price is much better than the almost three hundred dollars they want for a new one.
Second questions I used Bosch Platnum plus plugs. Are these plugs recommended.
What I pulled out was Autolite plugs.
Third question if say the fuel filter was clogged, can that affect the fuel pump pressure (Ie make it lower)
Forth question. Just out of curiousity, do they make a fuel pump that can bypass the in tank one. in my earlier years we use to utilize these to avoid dropping the tank, and to save some time.
This seems to be a common problem with these vans from what I have read on the internet.
I have read so many people that have replaced pump, regulator, filter, relay switch, etc, and still have the problems.
Anyway what do you think. I appreciate all advice concerning my Astro
I own a 1999 Chevy Atro Van 8th vin digit is "W" 4.3liter V6 engine with 4l60e transmission.
Ok first question.
I love this van and how it is a one time crank start.
For a few months now it seemed to take more than one crank to start.
I recently changed oil and spark plugs. Cap & Rotor & Wires are good.
After this it would not start. Finally I hit it with some carb cleaner and it fired right up. And ran great as it always has.
However I am concerned about the difficulty starting. I changed the fuel pressure switch to no avail.
I have heard that the euel pump could be the culprit, but I have to run a fuel pressure test to see how much pressure I am getting.
My question is if the fuel pressure is not what it is suppose to be would using a rebuild kit work just as good. The reason I ask is because the price for a new pump is ridiculous, where are the rebuild kit is more reasonable.
Here is the link to the rebuild kit off of ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160283871045&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=
As you can see the price is much better than the almost three hundred dollars they want for a new one.
Second questions I used Bosch Platnum plus plugs. Are these plugs recommended.
What I pulled out was Autolite plugs.
Third question if say the fuel filter was clogged, can that affect the fuel pump pressure (Ie make it lower)
Forth question. Just out of curiousity, do they make a fuel pump that can bypass the in tank one. in my earlier years we use to utilize these to avoid dropping the tank, and to save some time.
This seems to be a common problem with these vans from what I have read on the internet.
I have read so many people that have replaced pump, regulator, filter, relay switch, etc, and still have the problems.
Anyway what do you think. I appreciate all advice concerning my Astro
Leeann94astro
10-29-2008, 12:00 PM
Plugs: only recommended brand is AC Delco, whether you go with standard or platinum.
Fuel filter: Yes. If it's clogged, less fuel will get through. They're cheap enough and good insurance.
As for the rebuild kit, I have no experience with them. Nor have I experience with replacing the in-tank pump with an inline pump.
Fuel filter: Yes. If it's clogged, less fuel will get through. They're cheap enough and good insurance.
As for the rebuild kit, I have no experience with them. Nor have I experience with replacing the in-tank pump with an inline pump.
brcidd
10-29-2008, 02:36 PM
you can get an inline pump-- but I'll bet it can't chuck out 61 psi!!
Blue Bowtie
11-01-2008, 07:34 PM
...However I am concerned about the difficulty starting. I changed the fuel pressure switch to no avail.
Fuel pressure switch? I've been all over a number of these vehicles, including my own, and I've never encountered a fuel pressure switch, neither physically, nor in any service manuals. Are you certain it wasn't the auxiliary oil pressure switch, which acts as a backup to operate the fuel pump?
I have heard that the euel pump could be the culprit, but I have to run a fuel pressure test to see how much pressure I am getting.
Exactly. The fuel pressure test, both standing and running, will be a big step in diagnosing the problem. You might even want to run a dead-head pressure test, just to see if the pump can actually make the required pressure. When you test, be absolutely certain the battery is fully charged, since these pumps are very voltage sensitive. A little voltage drop will make a good pump, even a brand new one, look bad.
My question is if the fuel pressure is not what it is suppose to be would using a rebuild kit work just as good. The reason I ask is because the price for a new pump is ridiculous, where are the rebuild kit is more reasonable.
If the "kit" includes a new electrical connector, I would be tempted to try it. If not, don't waste your time. Half of the problems (and probabyl more) with fuel pumps on GM vehicles in this vintage are due to failing electrical connectors at the in-tank unit, top and interior connections. There are no fewer than FOUR connectors between the main bulkhead connector (C200) and the pump. Three of those are right at the tank, and two of those are known for failure.
http://72.19.213.157/files/PumpConnector.jpg
Third question if say the fuel filter was clogged, can that affect the fuel pump pressure (Ie make it lower)
Can it affect it? Most definitely, but you'll never know unless the fuel pressure is tested.
Forth question. Just out of curiousity, do they make a fuel pump that can bypass the in tank one. in my earlier years we use to utilize these to avoid dropping the tank, and to save some time.
Yes, there are externally mounted pumps which can produce the necessary pressure at the correct volume. I have used them myself on various EFI conversions of vintage vehicles. However, when adding the head losses imposed by the old pump, even though an external pump may be able to draw and pump adequate fluid volume through the old turbine pump, it will likely not be adequate under heavier loads when the volume demand is higher, causing leaning or stalling.
This seems to be a common problem with these vans from what I have read on the internet.
...And Blazers, and Sierras, and Tahoes, and Suburbans, and Yukons, and Vanduras, and, well, you get it...
I have read so many people that have replaced pump, regulator, filter, relay switch, etc, and still have the problems.
Read the section above, regarding the failure of electrical connectors which are frequently overlooked. Then read it again. You'll grasp it soon enough. (Sorry, but that was not really directed at you, but for the numerous "experts" who might read this in the future, and wonder why all those new parts did nothing, just like so many of their fathers before them continue to do.)
Good luck with the diagnosis. And remember to vote.
Fuel pressure switch? I've been all over a number of these vehicles, including my own, and I've never encountered a fuel pressure switch, neither physically, nor in any service manuals. Are you certain it wasn't the auxiliary oil pressure switch, which acts as a backup to operate the fuel pump?
I have heard that the euel pump could be the culprit, but I have to run a fuel pressure test to see how much pressure I am getting.
Exactly. The fuel pressure test, both standing and running, will be a big step in diagnosing the problem. You might even want to run a dead-head pressure test, just to see if the pump can actually make the required pressure. When you test, be absolutely certain the battery is fully charged, since these pumps are very voltage sensitive. A little voltage drop will make a good pump, even a brand new one, look bad.
My question is if the fuel pressure is not what it is suppose to be would using a rebuild kit work just as good. The reason I ask is because the price for a new pump is ridiculous, where are the rebuild kit is more reasonable.
If the "kit" includes a new electrical connector, I would be tempted to try it. If not, don't waste your time. Half of the problems (and probabyl more) with fuel pumps on GM vehicles in this vintage are due to failing electrical connectors at the in-tank unit, top and interior connections. There are no fewer than FOUR connectors between the main bulkhead connector (C200) and the pump. Three of those are right at the tank, and two of those are known for failure.
http://72.19.213.157/files/PumpConnector.jpg
Third question if say the fuel filter was clogged, can that affect the fuel pump pressure (Ie make it lower)
Can it affect it? Most definitely, but you'll never know unless the fuel pressure is tested.
Forth question. Just out of curiousity, do they make a fuel pump that can bypass the in tank one. in my earlier years we use to utilize these to avoid dropping the tank, and to save some time.
Yes, there are externally mounted pumps which can produce the necessary pressure at the correct volume. I have used them myself on various EFI conversions of vintage vehicles. However, when adding the head losses imposed by the old pump, even though an external pump may be able to draw and pump adequate fluid volume through the old turbine pump, it will likely not be adequate under heavier loads when the volume demand is higher, causing leaning or stalling.
This seems to be a common problem with these vans from what I have read on the internet.
...And Blazers, and Sierras, and Tahoes, and Suburbans, and Yukons, and Vanduras, and, well, you get it...
I have read so many people that have replaced pump, regulator, filter, relay switch, etc, and still have the problems.
Read the section above, regarding the failure of electrical connectors which are frequently overlooked. Then read it again. You'll grasp it soon enough. (Sorry, but that was not really directed at you, but for the numerous "experts" who might read this in the future, and wonder why all those new parts did nothing, just like so many of their fathers before them continue to do.)
Good luck with the diagnosis. And remember to vote.
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