stupid questions

Ok heres the scoop.. I got a couple of stupid questions I think I already know the answer to.. :loser:

I got the 1990 conv GT

1. The braking system is discs alround, and to change the rear ones I suspect I'm gonna have to clamp off the line and disconnect the fluid feed into the caliper to remove the caliper and swap out the discs.. I am innit..??

2. After replacing the relay for the front headlight doors I suspect the BCM (rt kick panel)is duff, as the replacement relay just opened the doors same as the old unit which I had closed while testing the drive motor. The doors remain in the open position even after turning the lights on and off. So the main issue is whether a BCM from yrs 91-95 are compatible as are either the dodge or plymouth acclaim??.. are BCM specifically flashed for model and yr or are they generic..??

I'm gonna have to buy a remanufactored one innit..?? :banghead:

The radio works.. :lol:

First of all, the only stupid questions is the ones not asked.

Regarding your brakes, the hydraulic hoses connect to the calipers. When replacing the pads and discs, just unbolt the caliper from the backing plate and move it out of the way. No need to disconnect the hose from the caliper unless you are replacing the caliper. If you are replacing the caliper, DON'T clamp off the hose. Just unscrew the hose from the old caliper and bolt to the new caliper, then bleed the new caliper. You will lose a little fluid, but not enough to drain the entire system, unless you keep it disconnected overnight.

Regarding the headlight doors, you may just have a bad switch on the dash that is no longer telling the doors to close. Check the switch first before assuming the BCM is bad. Start simple and work to the complex.

Hey thnx K for validating me stupid Q's..

I knew the answers.. I knew it.. just freakin knew it.. oh well.. better get a m8 to help bleed em when i do em..

I dont think tis the switch as I 've looked at that.. but a closer inspection and more testin with a meter won't hurt methinks.. :biggrin:

You do realize that there's a headlight open relay and a headlight close relay, right next to each other. How did you miss that?

And about computers, don't mix and match them. Some people will tell you that you can't mix-match them because the serial bus is different. Not true. But out of all the parts that Chrysler made interchangeable between car models and years, the only non-interchangeable parts are body parts and computers. Pretty much every car model had it's own body computer. However, there are certain years of computers you can interchange between, but the comps all have to be from the same car. This is because the wiring has changed. A good guess for whether or not a body comp will work in your car is the color of the 2 plugs. If the plug colors of the new comp matches the color of the original, there's a chance it will work, otherwise forget it.

But anyway, the chances the computer is faulty or "duff" as you call it :P is limited.

You do realize that there's a headlight open relay and a headlight close relay, right next to each other. How did you miss that?

Electrics aint my top subject..:banghead: I can usually work it out if I have diagram and know where to look :grinyes:

So M8.. giz a clue.. open an closed relays..?? where are they.. :eek7:

I did ask a guy on ebay bout a 1993 bcm he was sellin and he was honest nuff to say summat similar about not matchin the car.. :mad: saved a few $$$ there methinks.. :biggrin:

Umm... the fuse/relay box under the hood... open your hood, it should be on the driver's side fender area, a black plastic box. Remove the cover. There, you should see fuses and relays... if you changed one relay, chances are you changed it inside this box. If not, then you didn't actually replace the relay you want. Once you remove the cover from the box, flip the cover over, and it should give you a diagram to show which fuse and relay is for what. The relays are the big squares on the diagram. One should say something like "Headlamp Open" and the other "Headlamp Close" or something like that, but they are literally right next to each other. Replace the closing relay since the doors are not closing. If you replace it and still have no luck, get a testlight and pull out the close relay, test all the pins for postive and negative. Get a buddy to sit in your car and turn the headlights on, then off. Since the doors will recieve the close signal when you turn them off. Keep your testlight in one pin while your buddy turns off the lights. Repeat for each other pin. Then switch around to testing for negative and repeat again. You should get at least one pin that will become positive for about 1 second when the lights are turned off, and perhaps one that becomes negative, but it may be negative all the time.

Or the simpler approach, since you know your headlight doors open properly, pull out the open relay and stick it in the close relay's spot. Now get your buddy to turn off the headlights, listen for the relay clicking. The doors should now close. If they don't, try again and simply listen for the relay clicking as you turn off the lights. If it doesn't click you have a problem between the battery and the relay (battery > fuse > body computer > relay). If it does click and the doors still don't close, your problem is between the relay and the the headlight door motor. But since it opens fine that will mean you have a wiring problem.

If you still REALLY think it's your body computer (yes, the body computer does give the signal to open and close the doors). Take off the passenger side kick panel, unbolt the body computer (two 7/16" nuts), get a testlight and a wiring diagram, and stick the testlight into the pin for the close signal, and turn your lights on then off. If you get no light, your body comp *might* be bad. It still could be a fuse or your headlight switch, but probably not the headlight switch.

Tell me what happens! :)

The relay boards in the 90 conv is up under the dash on the drivers side, and the relay for the doors is a big box mounted near the fuse board. I got a wiring diagram for the BCM. I'll figure it out.. eventually.. :wink:

heck.. I'm even thinkin of donating the EEK.. :naughty:

Ugh omg don't donate your car... geez you might as well drive it off a cliff, claim it was stolen and collect the insurance money... (don't do that). If you think that this is a problem car, you're mistaken. You have it easy. Just fix it and enjoy it. Do you know how many LeBarons have broken headlight doors? It's not like it stops you from driving it.

Ok.. so I'm a perfectionist and want the headlight doors working.. :biggrin: Besides 'erindoors' (wifey) wouldnt let me donate it.. told me to sell the good stuff on Ebay :eek7: women and cars :screwy: (respect to them women who are wise)

I'll get there.. slowly but surely.. might even wire in a switch to bypass the circuit to make em work :grinyes: Dunnno.. will spend the winter seeking things out.. hell might even get it road ready for next summer.. :sunglasse

I didn't mean you shouldn't fix your car, I simply meant that I have dealt with cars that have far more complicated mystery problems, so I consider your problem to be nothing serious. And I'm also a perfectionist, and if my LeBaron had the hideaway headlights, I would do whatever it took to make sure they worked properly. Although I bought, fixed, and sold another LeBaron that had the hideaway lights... which had their own problem that I fixed. However it was a mechanical problem with the doors and not electronic. If you really can't figure out what's wrong, do this:

Use a test light to make sure the body computer is giving the signal to the relays for open and close, and if it is, just totally rewire the headlight door system, bypassing everything, using new relays. And it should work, as long as you wired it right.

:thinkerg: .. A rewire and bypass.. as in from lightswitch via a time delay relay to the door motor methinks you thinkin.. hmmmmmmm :sly: is dooable. I'll investigate..

thanks man..

I kinda meant from the body computer to the door motor, with relays in between.

Forgive me if this was already covered, but are you sure the gears in the motor aren't stripped? That is the most common reason they stay open.

Alas Polygon.. the motor works fine as the doors open and close when i hook upto a 12v and swap the polarity around.. tis a PIA fault finding.. :banghead: