95 silverado 1500 wont stay running at idle

i own a 1995 silverado 1500 with a 5.7 L 350ci motor the truck has sat for about a year without running/moving before i parked it it was runing realy shitty i tuned the moter up (plugs wires cap rotor and evan ingnition module egr valve pcv valve ignition coil) and yes the fireing order is correct i checked and rechecked and rechecked it some more i put some octain boost in to revive the old gas along with some new gas but it still barly idles itself out it feels like its missing like crazy and will stall out with your foot steady on the gas or at idle i have to tap the gas and keep doing that for anything to happen or it will stall out i dont think it skiped time or it wouldnt run at all i had it idleing by itself earlyer today but it was reealy rugh is there something im missing or does anyone think that all new gass would make it run properly any info would be wounderfully appreciated!!!

Tom

Fresh gas may help, have you checked for vacuum leaks? does it run O.K. otherwise?

How about the fuel filter change it out if u already hadn't, Have u ever had to change out the fuel pump? if it's not getting enough fuel it will not idle right. how many miles does your truck have on it. My 92 had 115000 miles on it when my pump went out, it was hard to start drove good next day nothing.

well, with all due respect to your technical skill and keen observation abilities, there's a big difference between "feels ok" and IS ok. and is ok can be checked only with some basic equipment.
1. for starters, your ECM should control engine by itself and maintaine idle, so either ECM is asleep, or idle speed control unit is not functioning right
2. for a vehicle that was sitting for year do squat, probably outside, whatever could get oxydized - did so, have no doubt. so, you dealing with a bunch of rotten contacts that need to be disconnected, cleaned, lubricated, re-installed. and any single one of them can give you the symptoms
3. you MUST have The Big Four: good voltage coming from alternator(voltmeter); good fuel supply(fuel gauge to check fuel pressure); good compression(compression gauge); good timing(timing light). even small variations towards the lower end on any of those parameters will give you bad running engine. and, at least, you KNOW what's going on, instead of standing there, looking at it, and trying to guess what it feels like, being more and more frustrated.
4. you can - and should - read codes off ECM (http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/)

5. and, finally, mussulman's 1st step rescue action for the car that was sitting there for a year: 1. clean throttle/choke with carb/choke cleaner; run a can of seafoam through a tankful; run seafoam through brake booster hose. would be nice to run seafoam through fuel line, but you need adaptor for that. if i were you, i'd pull all the spark plugs out, pour seafoam into every cylinder, and let it sit in there overnight. be prepared for hard, smoking starts. it'll dissolve residue on piston rings that is creating gap between them and cylinder wall and reducing compression. 2. check air filter. you should see light through it easy. 3. clean MAF or equivalent sensor and its contcts. carb cleaner does fine.

all the best and good luck. though really, it's not a luck thing, just proper steps to follow.

well, with all due respect to your technical skill and keen observation abilities, there's a big difference between "feels ok" and IS ok. and is ok can be checked only with some basic equipment.
1. for starters, your ECM should control engine by itself and maintaine idle, so either ECM is asleep, or idle speed control unit is not functioning right
2. for a vehicle that was sitting for year do squat, probably outside, whatever could get oxydized - did so, have no doubt. so, you dealing with a bunch of rotten contacts that need to be disconnected, cleaned, lubricated, re-installed. and any single one of them can give you the symptoms
3. you MUST have The Big Four: good voltage coming from alternator(voltmeter); good fuel supply(fuel gauge to check fuel pressure); good compression(compression gauge); good timing(timing light). even small variations towards the lower end on any of those parameters will give you bad running engine. and, at least, you KNOW what's going on, instead of standing there, looking at it, and trying to guess what it feels like, being more and more frustrated.
4. you can - and should - read codes off ECM (http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/)

5. and, finally, mussulman's 1st step rescue action for the car that was sitting there for a year: 1. clean throttle/choke with carb/choke cleaner; run a can of seafoam through a tankful; run seafoam through brake booster hose. would be nice to run seafoam through fuel line, but you need adaptor for that. if i were you, i'd pull all the spark plugs out, pour seafoam into every cylinder, and let it sit in there overnight. be prepared for hard, smoking starts. it'll dissolve residue on piston rings that is creating gap between them and cylinder wall and reducing compression. 2. check air filter. you should see light through it easy. 3. clean MAF or equivalent sensor and its contcts. carb cleaner does fine.

all the best and good luck. though really, it's not a luck thing, just proper steps to follow.