02 3.8L Coolant leak

Noticed strong smell of antifreeze coming from van...

Found source of leaks.. one (minor) is from the waterpump bypass tube, right at the joint where it splits into a "y". The other (major) is from a hose that connects to one of the legs from the "y"... the lower one, not the one that goes back into the intake area. It appears the hose leaks right at the factory installed hose clamp... you all know what I'm talking bout right? What a crappy design! Anyone replaced that hose before? It looks pretty difficult because the other end of the hose goes into a "t", and that clamp is one of those clamp down type (sorry, I don't know what it's called, other than a pos!) Can I just cut that clamp off, buy a piece of hose and use good ole American made hose clamps?

KC :-)

I've used a ziz wheel a small air grinder and slit it long way used a screwdriver and spread it and removed it. I then used I think 5/8 inch heater hose and a regular hose clamp.
The Ford dealer sells these hoses for a higher price. You can also buy a brass or aluminum tee and make your own.
I assume a parts store,Lowe's,Home Depot, or your local hardware have a brass tee. I've also seen plastic tees around.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_A374.htm this is a heater hose tool for Ford.

About the water pump tube. I have bought a new one from Ford which come with a O ring seal (side that connect in the water pump.) You have to remove a bolt which hold the tube bracket to the water pump and another bolt which is close to the Y where you have your leak. Mine was rusted, almost rotten and I have to soak with PB Blaster for a while before it start to go out of the water pump; so be patient if it is uneasy to pull it from to avoid to break the water pump case.

Got the bypass tube out. Plugged one end, filled it with water and can see water flowing out of the factory welded tube. Nice one Ford! Gonna have some welders braze that tube and reinstall it. As far as the hose is concerned, think I'll go the route of cutting it and putting in a coupler. Ford want $90 for the hose. Are they crazy???

Get a new O ring seal before re-install the tube in the water pump.

Is that a dealer only item or will any o-ring work?

To remove heater hose I've found if you take a stanley knife and cut from the end straight back to the end of the nipple. I then take a wide screw driver and put in the slit and turn side ways. This loosens the hose and it comes right off.
I would check if aftermarket replacements are available for the water pump nipple if their corroded out. I had a crack in my tractor diesel fuel tank and it cost me $15.00 to get it brazed.
If you wash all anti freeze out you can use a map or propane gas tank and 95/5 solder and sweat this fitting I was afraid to do a fuel tank. I've fixed the nipple on radiators this way just don''t overheat. Soap and water is required to wash the nipple. Use your pressure tester and check for leaks when done.

Is that a dealer only item or will any o-ring work?
Maybe an aftermarket would fit if you can find it but if you want to play safe, I would look at a Ford dealer. Do not try to re-install the old one, chances are that you will have a leak, I's sure you will not be happy after fixing the hose leak :(:(:(

My local ford dealer didn't list that O-ring in their parts breakdown. Picked a similar sized one up at an auto parts store and applied some RTV at reinstallation, no leaks.

Well got the "Deathstar" back together and everything seems to be holding alright. Took the bypass y pipe to work and had a welder "fix" it. But he said that a lot of the crap inside the pipe was getting pulled into the new weld. Turns out the pipe was a lot better but still leaked just a bit... so I used some 2 part epoxy that cures in an hour. So far so good. Put the system back together and took the DS out for a ride. Let it run for about 30 minutes and looked under the hood. All dry! Hopefully this will hold, cause if she don't, I'm gonna cut that friggin pipe and just use heater hose and some tees! :grinyes:

I also just used a new o-ring from the store... no rtv and it seems to hold fine.

KC