03 Suburban 1500 ac compressor broken?

03 suburban 1500, 5.3L engine, no rear AC

it stopped working, i got underneath and saw there was no belt. replaced the belt, worked fine, but then started making crazy noise under load. replaced the tensioner and it mostly went away, but now you can hear the belt slipping. blows cold air, but i'm guessing the compressor is toast.

1) does this sound like it's repairable or is it time for a new compressor?
2) how hard is it to replace the compressor? looks like it's only 4 bolts, but it's kinda tight under there. is it a pain or manageable?
3) if i need a new compressor, any recommendations on where to get one? do i want a new one or rebuilt?

sorry if this has been posted before. i searched, but couldn't find anything.

Your truck is famous for that exact failure mode- pops the belt off because tensioner is going crazy- it can even strike against the tranny cooler lines- not good!!-- I used a Gates tensioner- got rid of most of vibrations- but at 1800 erpm noise/vibration still evident- so time for a new pump-- seems they don't go much longer than 90k miles. I always use OEM replacements- or a salvage yard ubit- with just a few miles...

As said it may need replacing.
But I always like to check the low and high side pressure at idle and at 2K rpm before and after replacement.
If it has been overcharged you will see high pressure on high and low side that can overload compressor..
MT

thanks. guess it's what i expected to hear, but didn't really want to.
what about (2) and (3)? how hard a job is it and where to get one. i was a diesel mechanic about a million years ago, and still have all my tools, so i can't imagine it should be THAT hard, but tips are welcome. i found a few on the web for about $250. seem right?

Go here, these folks are very helpful. Never chnaged a compressor on a truck like yours but I have changed a few on other model cars and trucks.
http://acsource.net/acforum/

Check this place out for parts, they were the cheapest for my Cadillac. Saved me over $400.00 compared to buying locally.
http://www.autoaironline.com/index.html

I have the same rattle on my 03 i thought it was the tensioner and bought one installed it and no rattle in Idle but when i went to drive it it was there at about 2000 rpms so went under and ask my wife to hit the gas and there it was the tensioner bouncing again, well i looked at the box to return it and there was a note that said the problem was liquid slugging and the deforming of the retainer gasket causing the internal failure. now my truck just turm 50000 miles if this is a problem with this type of compressor i think that the dealer should be liable for the replacement, and i will try to make them pay

I have the same rattle on my 03 i thought it was the tensioner and bought one installed it and no rattle in Idle but when i went to drive it it was there at about 2000 rpms so went under and ask my wife to hit the gas and there it was the tensioner bouncing again, well i looked at the box to return it and there was a note that said the problem was liquid slugging and the deforming of the retainer gasket causing the internal failure. now my truck just turm 50000 miles if this is a problem with this type of compressor i think that the dealer should be liable for the replacement, and i will try to make them pay


when the adding refrigerant It is important to add only the correct amount or LESS, never more than is stated as the full capacity...

I always full system with less than the stated full amount...this keeps the compressor from destruction and avoids excessive pressures when the temps rise to the 90++++ temps...many a compressor destroy's its self when the temps rise to this level....


also many a repairer refuses to monitor the high side pressures ..this is important when adding to a system that is low...this gives the correct info needed to determine if the level is toooo high ...


Internal damage is the result of the compressor pumping liquids....

Legally, one must recover the refrigerant (can't vent it to atmosphere), and it would be dangerous to disconnect a line on a system containing charge. After recovering refrigerant, replacing compressor and orifice tube should both be done, and maybe use a new accumulator, even though your system is currently pressurized (that's what a shop would do). Most add an equivalent amount of oil to the new compressor that drains out of the old one, not more than an ounce or two more. After all bolted together, new O-rings, a vacuum pump must be used to pull a good vacuum for an hour, then gauges are needed to recharge the system correctly. So I see one needing (1) refrigerant recovery system (2) vacuum pump (3) refrigeration gauge manifold (4) miscellaneous such as can tap

I've changed aproximately six compressors, one evaporator. All successfully (Arizona). My 1994 Suburban (dual air) is on its third.

thanks. helpful comments. i still haven't gotten around to fixing is (since it's been so mild lately), so i guess i'll just take it to a shop first and have the system checked out. sounds like it could be a blockage in the system.

This is what mine did.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=k30pee&s=3&hid=1&tag=tensioner

Great video clip; yes, your tensioner looked horrible !!!