97 K2500 died/no start

After a month of the MIL coming on then going back off after a few starts, (gas cap OK) the truck started, ran about 100 yards, then died. It won't restart. I hear a fuel pump noise under the tank. Dash lights come on normally. Any obvious places I should check before I go into full--break out the factory manual--troubleshooting mode?

If I need to break down and buy a scan tool, any suggestions? I don't mind simple and cheap but if it will do everything I'll ever need on this truck, I'll invest in a good one.

TIA

After a month of the MIL coming on then going back off after a few starts, (gas cap OK) the truck started, ran about 100 yards, then died. It won't restart. I hear a fuel pump noise under the tank. Dash lights come on normally. Any obvious places I should check before I go into full--break out the factory manual--troubleshooting mode?

If I need to break down and buy a scan tool, any suggestions? I don't mind simple and cheap but if it will do everything I'll ever need on this truck, I'll invest in a good one.

TIA

Do you have spark?

Check fuel pressure with fuel pressure gauge. I believe should have 60-65 PSI.

another thing is that the 97's are known for faulty ignition switches. Do a search using ignition switch and this may also give you some info.

Here are a couple scan tools for laptop that may be of interest to you, also do a google search you may find more:

http://www.autotap.com/?s=ask5

http://www.autoenginuity.com/

Check with autozone or checker auto parts stores they may have a scan tool that you can put a deposit on, scan your vehicle for codes, then return it and your deposit is returned to you.

I did a test with a 1/4 extension stuck into a plug boot connected to a neon light. I got flashes. This makes me think spark probably isn't bad enough to stop it dead. I haven't looked to see if spark and FI are on the same computer.

I've thought about hooking a plug to the serial port on an older laptop and running a program from scantool.net to have a look at stuff.

I suspect I could borrow a code reader but I don't know if codes would necessarily point me to the correct problem on a no-start. I plan on fooling with it some this weekend if the midwest thunderstorms give me a break.

Thanks for the tips!
EB

With the SES light coming on and going off there will be codes that can be retrieved.

And those codes are definitely the place to start your troubleshooting process.

There may be active codes and history codes.

Do what ever you can to get those codes and post them back here. Remember this, we need the code numbers. If you take it someplace and they say it's the 02 sensor, etc, that won't help us to help you. Only DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) will work with us.

As tempfixit said you need to check the fuel pressure. Even though you hear the pump run doesn't mean it's putting out the required pressure.

Also need to know what motor is in your Sub and do you have the factory manuals as indicated in your 1st post?

I'll possibly be a while getting the codes. I may have to borrow a scanner.

My fuel gauge only goes to 30 and it pegged quickly. I don't think a reduced pressure would have caused a sudden cut and die. I'm going to rule out fuel supply unless someone has a convincing argument otherwise.

The truck is the K2500 with the 7.4 (454). I have about six inches of the two factory books and I'm not afraid to use them :~)

Just wondering whether the distributor cap and rotor ever need replacing. This one is buried deep under hoses, wire harnesses, and coil, so I'm not eager to access it. But that's the place I usually go on a car when I have fuel and want to see if the ignition is OK. I guess the other place to check would be to look for signal at an injector.

I look forward to your input.
EB

If 30 lbs of fuel pressure is all you have that is you problem.
You gota to have full pressure to start cold.
MT