95 SL2 Transmission Issue

I've got a 1995 SL2 with automatic. Just reached 185k on it. It has developed an issue that i believe is the transmission going going gone. Looking for opinions.
It shifts through all of the gears. In 1st and 2nd it shutters and skips. Kind of a hard thing to describe. It gets worse as it get warmer. 3rd is the same. It also doesn't shift at the correct RPM and needs to get to almost 4500 RPM to shift into overdrive.

I changed the fluid and filter and it did not improve.

Any ideas are appreciated.
Thanks

Change your ECTS to start with. This sensor stock is resin and can crack sending false data to the PCM. The PCM uses it for shift points and Torque converter lock up points. New ones are brass and will last the lifetime of the car. You car has two sensors, replace the one with the 2 wire connector. There is a video in another thread with how to do this

Read something on another board about the EGR valve causing similar conditions.

I unplugged the electrical connector to the EGR valve and the car drove fine.
Let the car cool down, plugged it back in and the car was jerking and shifting bad in the first 10 feet. Unplugged it again and the problem went away. Will be buying a new EGR valve today.

Thanks

Interesing. Usually the EGR vavle is the cause of rough idles, not while the car is in motion.

Clean you EGR first. then replace it if it doesnt help.

An update: Put the new EGR valve on. Car drove just as bad as before. Unplugged it again and everything was fine. I watched that video on the ECTS. I will try that next. I read up on it last night and the problems that could cause make more sense that it is the problem. Thanks for the advice.

Just installed the ECTS. Car ran ok for a little bit, but then started jerking and shifting bad again. Seemed to take a little longer to start than before, maybe it is just cooler today. Unplugged the electrical connector to the EGR valve again and it runs fine. I am assuming that when I unplug the EGR I am also killing something else that is wired in series and the computer is using default values or something. Any ideas are welcomed.

remove the PCM B Fuse to reset the PCM. This will force the computer to relearn the car and your driving habits. See if that helps.

Clean your EGR. (unplugging it has nothing to do with any other device)

The EGR valve is brand new, that was the first thing I changed. I pulled the PCM fuse, but that didn't work either. Takes about a mile and then the car runs like crap. I've unplugged the EGR valve again and it runs fine. Drove it to work this AM, 20 miles and it ran great. I should add that the car has run progressively worse over the last 6 months leading up to the jerking and bad shifting last week. Early on it was just a light shudder.
What does the EGR valve do where there is no power to it (unplugged). I am thinking it goes closed which forces the car to run totally on fresh air. With it plugged in it seems that once the car warms up and the computer opens the EGR circuit, the problem develops. Assuming the new valve is good, what else in the EGR circuit could be plugged / shot and causing the problem.

Thanks for the help so far, keep the ideas coming.

Its possible the passage ways to the egr are plugged. You can take the EGR off, and run the engine with a cloth over the ports and that should shoot any carbon right out. You may also want to make sure there is power going to the egr with a voltmeter

Checked continuity of the EGR valve tonight. According to my manual pins 1/5 should create a circuit as should pins 2/4. I checked and to not get continuity on 2/4. I also checked the old valve I took off and same thing, nothing on 2/4. So either I got a bad valve or I blew the valve after putting it on the car. I am going to get a new valve tomorrow. Do you know what the voltages should be at the connector? I am getting 5.0 volts on pin 4 and 13.3 on pin 5. The pin 4 voltage is correct according to my book, pin 5 voltage is not listed.
I'm going to bring my meter and check the new valve in the store.

Unfortunetly i do not. I suggest however going to saturnfans.com and registering there. Start a thread in the S-series Tech section. Fdryer, madpoque, or Barnowl will have the exact number you need.
See you over there!

Haven't been able to work on the car for awhile but back at it. EGR was replaced and still the same. I did get the numbers and I think the other valve was fine as well. Car still behaves as before. If I unplug the EGR valve connector all problems go away. Any thoughts on it being TPS related. I've noticed on the schematics that they come off the same circuit. The car doesn't really respond to throttle position when it is running bad. I tried unpluging it and it made the problem worse, but the same symptoms.
I may try replacing it, and if that doesn't work I'll just drive with the EGR unplugged. Still no codes being set other than the ones caused by unplugging things.
I had a thread in the other forum, I'll bump it again.

Borrowed an EGR control module (seperate from the valve) from a friends 95 and the car ran great. Buying one today.