2001 SEL 62k Trans flush & compass questions

Hello all, great forum and I appreciate the help.
I am assuming that I should disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler to insure a complete flush, (thanks for the pics win) but running it while disco'd is what I am curious about. There is no chance of damage to the tranny? (from running out of fluid) how do I know the fluid is sufficiently flushed and then stop it?
Also, I did a forum search about the compass in the info center of the dash, and didnt get much info. My compass always displays S or SE and Ive tried re-setting per the manual. Its such a minor issue, but one that I try to fix every year or so. Im not even sure where it picks up the info (temperature, heading etc) from.
thanks again!

If you unhook the trans line, run it into a contaqiner, and then start the engine, the entire trans and torque converter will be pumped empty. As soon as the flow stops, then shut off the engine. This "dry period" should not hurt the trans since I have done this many times.

Use only Mercon 5 or what is required and it may take abouyt 14 quarts if you pump it all out.

The compass may be a bad compass itself.

I've looked at the trans cooling lines on my 95 in anticipation of doing a flush but don't see a good place to disconnect it other than right at the trans. Everything is high pressure, so there are no clamps and I don't want to cut into it. I guess the only alternative is at the radiator connection. I don't recall anyone saying to disconnect it there. Lastly, the "hi" or "hot" or the line leaving the trans is the top line and/or the line going to the top of the radiator, right? And just to throw out there, someone on the forum suggested temporarily switching the lines to reverse the flow to backflush the cooler as part of the total flush, clean, fluid and filter change. I think they meant to only send the fluid through the cooler backwards to the bucket and NOT back into the trans. Don't want any crud going in there. I ask mostly to encourage getting this info out here. Thanks! :)

I'll be crawling underneath today to look for a good spot to disconnect the line. Thanks for the input about reversing the flow throught the cooler. Never thought of that, but makes since.

This is the link on how the experience went for me. It also gives you details on how and what to disconnect. Check this link HERE (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=625072) for info. Hope it helps you out.

I just did this flush last month. In my 2003 LX, there are two quick connect fittings at the cooler. According the FSM CD, it says the lower one is the one you want to disconnect and put into a bucket. Running the car with the fluid flowing out is not an issue so long as you turn the car off as soon as the fluid starts to sputter. It will get bubbly etc.

Similar to Johnny, my flush ended up removing 14 quarts as well. That's a lot of trans fluid friends. It's too bad that the stores around here do not sell the gallon sizes. So I had to buy 14 individual quarts of it.

I used an old 5 gallon bucket of paint and it worked great. I only had a couple of drops spilled in my driveway. It cost me around $3.20/quart.

So I would think jammer that your experience should be similar. just look for the quick connect fittings on the driver's side near the front. The lines go heading into the cooler towards the back.

Basically, you are pouring in fresh mercon V fluid into the trans pan and so you should have plenty of trans. fluid in there while flushing.

I just did the tranny flush and filter change on my 2001 last weekend. I took the bottom line off the tranny as per the FSM, added on a piece of 3/8" ID hose (same one I bought to flush the power steering) and it fit on like a glove. Ran the hose to a bucket. Got my wife to start and stop the engine as I watched the ATF come out. After the first drain (run until it sputters air out), I removed the tranny oil pan and changed out the filter. As others have stated, the gasket on the filter gets stuck in the pipe in the tranny when you pull out the old filter, so I worked away at it carefully with needle nose pliers an got it out, then stuck in the new filter. I wiped out the pan and reinstalled it. Then I added 3 QTs of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, run the engine until it sputters, then add 3 QTs, etc, etc until the clean stuff comes out. I had to buy 1 QT containers too. I took me 14 to flush it out and then top it off (make sure you reserve one for topping it off!).

By the way, FSM said to plug the tranny hole that you remove the line from so it doesn't leak but be caureful not to damage the plastic retainer. I stuck in a rubber vaccuum plug that I bought for my PS flush (put it in the hole backwards) and put the metal hose retainer back on to hold it in place. Make sure you use something big enough so that it DOESN'T fall into the tanny. Didn't leak at all! I don't think I took enough oil out of the tranny before changing the filter though because the pan was fairly full when I remove it so I sloshed around and spilled a bit, but it went reasonably well considering it was my first time. Fairly easy and took me a couple of hours since I had never done it before.