98 explorer will not start

Here's the deal. The fuel pump primes to system. When you start to crank the engine the fuel pump stops pumpping. Where do I find some schmatics for this vihix? I replaced the relay, the pump was replaced about 7 months ago.
Any Ideas? I also swapped relay #5 with a known good relay same problem.

Welcome to the forum!

I'm not sure the fuel system is your problem. Have you verified fuel pressure, then checked for spark? The fuel pump should only run for 2-3 seconds to prime the system, that's totally normal.

-Rod

Rob, Thanks for the reply. I have not put a pressure gauye on the system yet because I lost the adapter to the scharder vavle. I'm trying to noodle this out without the use of my guage. This may sound crazy, however, while my son was cranking the engine I pushed the scharder valve in and no fuel shot out. Not a smart thing to do-but I did it. Like I said in the first post, the system does prime, the pump runs 2-3 seconds then stops. Try to start it - no go. I replaced the FP relay this morning still the same. I swapped another relay from my expy. still no go. I hate to have to buy a new guage for the darn adapter.

If this vehicle has two injectors sitting on a throttle body remove the air cleaner. Spray some starting fluid as somebody else is trying to start the vehicle. Carb cleaner will also work. If it starts you have a fuel problem.
You could have a bad pressure regulator. Normally you can watch them spray some fuel out. A bad loose computer ground will cause this type of problem.
For this vehicle it should be close to the computer or around the relays on the side of the fender.

I'm curious how you know it's priming. The same relay is used to prime the system and keep it running. Even though you have multi-port injection rather than throttle body injection, you can still try what rhandwor suggested to make sure you have a fuel problem.

If the truck will start and run with an external source, make sure the inertia fuel pump switch is closed. The next step then would involve wiring diagrams and a multimeter.

-Rod

I'm assuming the system primes for 2 reasons. I hear the pump run for 2-3 secs. With the scharder valve open, as my son turns the key to the on the pump runs and fuel shoots out. However, when you turn the key to the start position, -scharader valve still open- no fuel shoots out the valve. I do not know how much pressure there is, but there is fuel during the priming process. I was wondering if there was a secondary circuit for the fuel pump. I think the best thing to do for now is buy a new pressure guage, or the adapter, and start from there.

For some reason I thought you had an 88 Explorer.
On a 1997 Ford F-150 I had their was a plastic tube in the air nozzle. Pull this and spray starting fluid when trying to start. If it doesn't start pull a coil and put a spark plug in it ground it and try to start. Make sure you have spark as if the computer doesn't pick a reference signal it will shut off the pump.
A camshaft position sensor on the front of the engine is a major cause of no start.
If you can get a ohm meter on it, it should go from zero to one when cranking.
May need to make a couple of short wires you can attach to the sensor.
Depending on the type of gage pull the stem use a hose clamp on a piece of 3/8 high pressure fuel line hose pushed on the connection and install a gage in the hose the same way.

I think rhandwor is on the right track regarding loss of crankshaft signal turning off the fuel pump. A new fuel pressure guage or the spark test he suggests could help confirm that.

-Rod

Today, I broke down and bought a new pressure gague. Let me tell you what this thing is doing pressure. turn key to on position, system primes only to 10 lbs. Then bleeds off kind of fast. If I turn the key off and on 3 or 4 times in a row the pressure will build to 40lbs. no higher. Bleeds off at the same rate as stated above, kind of fast. If I try to start the engine when the pressure is at 40 lbs, the pressure gague bleeds off a the same rate as stated. I may have 2 problems here, a weak pump and no spark. Because when I try to start the engine the bleed off is kind of fast. Rhandwor, I think you may be right on da money. I'll do the cam sensor test. I did have a problem on my 300zx back a few years ago, that was very much the same symptom. However, I had an error code to go with. Made it easy to diagnos the problem. Would not a cam failure produce an error code? I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks for all your input folks.

Here's an update. Very starange. I did the spark test. The first time I did the test, crank crank crank no spark. I tried again and this time crank crank no spark then all of a sudden a nice bright spark at the engine fired-up. I replaced the plug and tried it again, it started. However, there is a downside. I only see 30 lbs of fuel pressure max. And whats up with the no spark, spark issue? What do you guys think?

Sounds like you have an intermittant crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, or the wiring to one of the sensors is intermittant.

Sounds like you also have an issue with the fuel pressure bleeding off quickly. The system should hold decent pressure for half a minute or better from my experience. You might have a fuel pressure regulator that is not working properly, leaky fuel injector(s), or a leak elsewhere in the fueling system.

-Rod

Well a day later and it still starts. I'll mess around with this weekend. Thanks for your help. I'll let you know if I find something worng. Talk to you soon. Thanks, and have safe weekend.

:banghead: Hey Gang,

When we last met the car was running fine. My wife drove it to our place of business when she was leaving for the day (Friday evening) it would not start again. That night I went to where the car was parked and I tried to start it, NO GO. So the next morning (Saturday) I drive back to where the car is planning to call AAA to come get this POS, and bring it home. When I tried to start it, it started right up. I get it home, Hummmm :confused: what is wrong, I ask my self.
So I decide to replace the CPS. No problem, replace the part the car starts we use it all day Sunday. Monday, wife jumps in the explorer to head to the office, my cell phone rings. It's the wife.... Hello dear, Hi doll what's up.... The explorer will not start. What!!!!!! It will not start. WT---- ----- ------ ----- ------ Fill in the blanks. You can't call it anything worse than I did.

Are there any wierd things that could cause this. I have read on another site about the capaitors in the PCM. causing strange problems. Does anyone have any other ideas. I have determined it is spark related. Without spark the fuel pump will not run either......
HELP!!!!!! any ideas, I'll try anything now.

On thing to try next time it will crank but not start:

Try holding the accelerator down just a little bit to ensure air is making it past the throttle plate. Any difference?

If that has no effect, get a can of STP throttle body cleaner. Pull one of the vacuum lines attached to the throttle body or intake air tubes and while someone cranks the engine, modulate a spray of throttle body cleaner into the throttle body and see if the engine will fire and run, as long as you modulate the cleaner. If so, you know you have spark and no fuel. That would point to the fuel system, likely the pump.

You could also verify that you have voltage from the inertia switch to the fuel pump as well.

-Rod

I think you either have a loose ground wire or a bad wire close to the camshaft position or crankshaft position sensor.
Look lower left cowl panel. Rear of engine comt. right side of cowl panel. Lower left inner cowl panel.
Pull the connectors for the two sensors check closely. You can use a bed of nails on one end of your ohm meter and the other on the contact wiggle.
You could put a straight pin about 8 inches from the end of the wire and check.
You can first try wiggling these wires.

rhandwor, When you say look lower left cowl panel. I'm looking for ground straps, correct?

Thats what I'm saying look at ground straps in the locations stated. If you see any corrision unbolt and clean use steel wool or light sand paper reinstall and coat with greese.

Is the crankshaft position sensor and cam position sensor the only signals the PCM is looking for to enable spark? I removed cleaned and/or sanded all the engine compartment grounds. 4 in the engine compartment, 1 next to around PCM. I did not clean the one at the starter. Too darn tired. Still no spark. The tachometer does not move either during crank. If it were not ignition related the tach would pulse. I think it's time to replace the crankshaft position sensor, for giggles and laughs. The last question for the night is. Is there any write-ups about how to test the CPS and CRK Pos sen. Chiltons test requires the engine be running. If the engine would start I would not have to test the sensor. Thanks for all your help any other ideas please pass them on. I'll update you if anything new happens.

These two sensors open and close like the old points this is how the coils are fired. This is why disconnected an ohm meter will go from zero to 1 when the engine is cranking. The old meters with a dial are better as you can watch the sweep when cranking.
A digital transmission range sensor won't allow an engine to start. Try neutral instead of park.
Just be careful around the belt maybe have to take it off.

A digital transmission range sensor won't allow an engine to start. Try neutral instead of park.
Just be careful around the belt maybe have to take it off.
DTRS would keep the starter from even cranking. Sounds like he's on the right track with the CPS or CMP. I'd suggest verifying power to the sensors though since only one sensor being open shouldn't cause a no start. If the CMP is open, the PCM will fire the plugs twice per 4 cycles until it gets the cylinder index signal, or set a code if it never sees the CID. Do all of the bulb tests work in the instrument cluster at key on like they are supposed to?

Which engine does your Explorer have? I have the 1998 Ford Truck factory service manual, but some of the specifics vary for the 4.0L OHV, the 4.0L SOHC, and the 5.0 V8.

-Rod

Hey guys, Let mw catch ya up.
Remover/cleaned/sanded the ground points in the engine compartment,(4) in total. Did the same to the one around the PCM. Same problem. Tonight I tested the (crank&cam) sensors they both pluse, as I crank the engine. I have ensured there is 12 volts to the coil pack. I have tried starting in neutral. Hold the gas pedal down a bit for air flow, as I start. All to no avail.
My next idea is to test for signal back to the PCM, from the cps & crk-ps.
If there is signal to the PCM, would you not think the PCM is DOA.
OBTW, this is a 98, 4.0 SOHC, auto, air. motor Vin (E)
OBTW2, Thanks for all your replys. I have no one to close to me that has any idea of what make a car run other than the KEY. So I do appreicate your response.

I would go to http://www.alldata.com/ and buy a years subscription $25.00. I would use an ohm meter and ohm the wires from both sensors to the computer. You will needs your wifes help to hold one end and a copper wire for length. Remember you need shielded cable if you replace a wire. Two wires with a ground around the wire. I think you may have a bad connection you wiggled when checking for spark. Look closely in this area. Check fuses and the relays for the system. Usually the computer closes the ground for the relay. Look at the manual and I have used a jumper to get them started then figured out the problem. Try switching a relay. You could use an alligator clip to make the ground. If this works buy a used computer at the scrap yard or a rebuilt unit at a parts store. For this you need a diagram its cheaper than the tow.
I've found walmart sells connectors with silicon to seal if you have to make a splice. Red with screw connectors on each end.

What do you know about the security system on these explorers? I work with a guy whos son is a ford mechanic. He said he has seen the same problem if the ignition key chip goes bad. Is there a way to by-pass the security system. Is there a way to program a new key if you only have one. I know you need 2 keys. What does ford do if someone looses all their keys?

I think the dealer can make you a new key from the vin number. Try cleaning the key with brake clean and try to get a q-tip and clean the key contacts in the switch. Some people bypass the key switch by installing a resister in place of the switch. As this can shut off the pump try a temporary
direct wire to the fuel pump.
You can send a private e-mail to ponchutti who is on the GM forum for pickups and some times Dodge. He does this work all the time.
Try a google search for ford key system.
On a GM it will start on starting fluid but the injectors are shut off. You said you don't have spark. I'm retired and am not to familiar with these systems.
Have you verified the relay for the computer system is working you can feel it pulse.
If your ford has the main fuel pump by the frame you can try a direct hookup at this point.
Verify you have spark at this time. Also check fuel pressure and feel the fuel pressure relay. If you can feel them pulse with your finger on them check for current.
You need a good wiring diagram as it is impossible to check out without one.

That won't work with the Ford PATS system. GM's VATS uses a resistor in the key. Ford PATS uses an RF transponder inside the key, no physical contact with the key cylinder. There's also no way to bypass the key if you don't have two working keys.

If the PATS is the reason your Explorer isn't starting, the "Theft" indicator in the instrument cluster should be flashing when you attempt to start the car.

If you don't have two working programmed keys, you can get new keys made and programmed at the dealer or a well-equiped locksmith shop. Expect to pay around $100 for a new key and programming.

-Rod

What happened did the new key work?

Nothing to report as of now. I have a locksmith coming out Tuesday to program new keys. I feel the key is a problem for sure. However, why intermittant at first and now DOA?
Pete

Did you check for flashing of the "Theft" indicator in the instrument cluster? If it performs the 3-second bulb test and goes out, then doesn't flash or stay on constant when trying to start the Explorer, chances are very good that the key is not the problem.

-Rod

And now for some more of the story... The locksmith came out today. He had all the tools needed to reprogram the system. He spent 4 hrs here, same problem. The theft light flashes fast and the car will not start. His computer tell him the system is programed. OBTW this guys seems very knowledgeable. Having worked with electronics all my life, I understan what he's doing. He is bringing another guy out tomorrow who is the Ford guru.
Here is where I need you guys experience. His hand held unit, that programs the keys is say there is am (SCP message missing). This what I have found so far about SCP ..... The SCP is a communication link between the PCM and a bunch of other components. I am also missing power to the Insturment cluster fuse. The Instrument cluster is in the SCP network. So as of right now I am heading out to the garage AGAIN!!!! To trouble shoot this problem now. I'll catch-up with you guys later. Hope I find something. If you have any ideas, let me know.

They sell alarm wiring diagrams on ebay I bought an all line one today in case I have a problem with my truck. One mfg. $8.95 all line $19.95. I hope the loss of power to the fuse is your problem a very good possibility. Expensive even if you fix it and the car starts.
A lot of problems with the relay control center having corrision problems has been found on other forums. I think it depends on where you live. Even the inside fuse panels have this problem its worth a look. Look underneath the fuse.

I have the 1998 Ford Trucks factory service manual. Which fuse do you not have power to, and why do you suspect it's tied to the SCP network?

Fuse 11 (7.5 amp) is only hot with the key in the Run or Start positions, fuse 25 (also 7.5 amp) is hot at all times. Fuse 15 (another 7.5 amp) is also only hot with the key in Run and Start positions. All are for the instrument cluster. None appear tied to the SCP network directly.

Fuse 11 provides power to the Day/Night mirror and the dimmer relay. Fuse 15 also provides power to the Airbag diagnostic monitor.

Fuse 25 does also provide power for the PATS system as well as to the GEM module. Is that the fuse that you are not getting power to? Based off the block diagram in the service manual power distribution section, it would appear this fuse gets power from a bus internal to the fuse panel. Power to this circuit is fed from the 60-amp Maxi fuse #1 in the Power Distribution box.

-Rod

Are you saving gas money or did you get it running?

LOL! I Thanks Rod, I deserved that. I had the car towed to Ford on Tuesday. They said they found a bad wire and they replaced a relay. Probably the aftermarket one I had in there. They reprogramed 2 keys and sent me on my way $200.00 lighter. The locksmith wants $100. bucks for his time. I'm ok with that. This is my wife's car and I live by this saying ... Happy Wife... Happy Life. I have had another issue crop-up with this key business. I plan to call Ford tomorrow. Here's the deal. I found a key that belonged to this car when I first bought it about it about 5 or 6 years ago. I had lost this key. Anyhow, I tried to start the car with this key (it would not start). I then tried to start the car with one of the keys Ford programed. It would not start. I then tried to start the car with the other key Ford programed and it started. Thank God. I don't understand why, if this found key would. Why did it wipe out one of the new keys?

I must admit, I liked rhandwor's comment, but cannot take credit for it.

The found key should not have removed one of the new keys from programmed memory. The found key also should not work though as programming the new keys would erase any previously programmed keys. Have you tried the both new keys again? Maybe there was a timed lockout delay due to trying the unprogrammed key. Or, maybe you had the found key too near to the new key which caused it to not work. I'd suggest you try it again.

If you find that both newly programmed keys work reliably now, then you can program the found key using the two programmed keys without the locksmith or visiting the dealer. Instructions are in the owner's manual.

-Rod

I'm amazed Ford fixed it this cheap. I'm glad they got it running.

Hey guy just a fast update. The keys are working, nothing got whipped out. I can not program the new keys. This not a big problem just, somthing strange. Ohter than that it is working. Thanks for all you help I know I'll be asking for more.

i have 98 explorer 4.0 vin x wont start i can spray stating fluid and it runs any ideals?

Use a Ford pressure test set it looks like this.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_3440.htm Check the pressure I assume it is low. You probably need a new fuel pump or pressure regulator.
You can also use a noid light use search on the link and type in 3411 this will show you a picture. You can check the parts store and get a price.
You can also check if you have 12 volt at the pump electrical connection.

i have 98 explorer 4.0 vin x wont start i can spray stating fluid and it runs any ideals?

Make sure the inertia switch at the passenger kick panel is not tripped. You should also check for voltage to and from the switch during the "fuel prime" times. If you have voltage when you should, then go the route of checking the fuel pressure.

Actually, it might be easier to check the fuel pressure if you have a pressure gauge than to check voltage at the switch. If there is absolutely no pressure, then check for voltage to and from the switch.

If you have voltage and no or low pressure and the fuel filter is reasonably new, you're probably due for a new fuel pump.

-Rod

:smile: hi, i have fuel pressere ,i cheecked the inertia switch and found good, i put a noid light on an injector and i have no pulse? please help

I would make sure your security system isn't activated. Then check harness follow back to a plug for the injectors. Check this out. Go to
http://www.alldata.com/ buy a years subscription est. $25.00 they have good wiring diagrams. Ohm wires from computer to the injectors. Repair any problem.

And check the fuse for you fuel injectors.

Did you have any symptoms prior to the no start, or did you just go out to the vehicle one morning and it would crank but not start?

And like rhandwor suggested, if the security system is active when you're trying to start it, the "Theft" or "security" light on the instrument cluster should be flashing. A wiring diagram will be well worth the annual subscription.

-Rod

:wink: :wink: :wink: And check the fuse for you fuel injectors.

Did you have any symptoms prior to the no start, or did you just go out to the vehicle one morning and it would crank but not start?

And like rhandwor suggested, if the security system is active when you're trying to start it, the "Theft" or "security" light on the instrument cluster should be flashing. A wiring diagram will be well worth the annual subscription.

-Rod

all fuses are good. the theft light on the dash is blinking? is that my problem and how do i get it out?

And check the fuse for you fuel injectors.

Did you have any symptoms prior to the no start, or did you just go out to the vehicle one morning and it would crank but not start?

And like rhandwor suggested, if the security system is active when you're trying to start it, the "Theft" or "security" light on the instrument cluster should be flashing. A wiring diagram will be well worth the annual subscription.

-Rod hi, i checked all the fuses and found all good. you said if the theft light is blinking thats my problem? how do i get it out? it is blinking.

Try a spare key and check if it starts. http://www.ntxtools.com/ sells testers and key coders otherwise a trip to a dealer is in order. Some locksmiths do some key coding. You will need wiring diagrams and a manual.

hi, i checked all the fuses and found all good. you said if the theft light is blinking thats my problem? how do i get it out? it is blinking.

If you have a second programmed key, try it and see if it works.

If you don't have a second programmed key, you should consider getting your current key reprogrammed and two new keys made. I believe with your model year you can program additional keys as long as you have two working programmed keys. If you have an owner's manual, it should say in there if you can program using two currently working programmed keys.

-Rod

:smile: :eek: :licka: hi the thieft light is blinking will this shut down the injectors? all the fuses are good. how would i get the theift light to go out? please help asap. thank you johnnyjoe.

I suppose I should ask a little bit more detailed question. Does the Theft indicator blink WHILE the key is in the Start and/or Run positions? It should blink when the key is in the Off position.

If the indicator is blinking when the ignition is in the Start and/or Run positions, you'll need to try either another programmed key, find a locksmith that does house calls and has the equipment to program the PATS/Securilock system, or have it towed to your dealer.

Yes, often the Ford PATS/Securilock system will shut down the injectors rather than disable the starter motor like some other anti-theft systems.

-Rod

anyone consider the fuel shut off / inertia switch ?

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/MTweb/menu.asp
This site gives some information for keyless entry and remote start.

anyone consider the fuel shut off / inertia switch ?

See posts 39 and 40 in this thread.

-Rod

:smile: :smile: :smile: hi, i checked all the fuses and found all good. you said if the theft light is blinking thats my problem? how do i get it out? it is blinking.:smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: ok enough smiles the key was my problem. it shut off the injectors. thank you. all

I'm glad you found it buy a new spare before you have problems again.