Bypassed TheftLock on GM Chevy Class II MP3 CD HU

This is an update to my post on:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=472260

Yes, I was able to bypass theftlock in the mp3 CD Head unit

Sorry for the disorganized text, it is close to 2am but I have received a few questions about the outcome and wanted to post for all.

I have an 01 Impala with the Class II CD/RDS radio and it turned out the 15216905 mp3 radio I bought was from a S10
(these vehicles belong to different body platform and have different body control modules, the dealer wasn't able to reprogram the vin with a TechII... this didn't work under neither vehicle's platform/body choices in the techII)

Anyway long story short, I was looking at the circuit boards of both radios and found a small 8 pin chip that was a 4Kb EEProm .
I figured this could be where the vin is stored and maybe other vehicle settings that can be changed by through the radio.

I tried to exchange these EEProms between both radios with the rationale that I would bring the vin and settings from one to the other but this did not work.
It results in a 'CAL ERROR' message for ~1-2 secs when the radio is on.
An interest side effect is that Theftlock was completely bypassed :) :) :) :)

So I returned each EEPROM to the radio they belonged to
but left pin 8 of the EEPROM not soldered/connected. (pin eight is power to the EEPROM)

Except for the CAL ERROR message for a 1-2 secs when I turn on the radio, all works perfect.
All sound settings, bass, treble, radio stations, resume place on the cd/mp3 are stored when the vehicle is shutdown too.
All integration/Class II features:
Chimes, OnStar, dimming, off when door open etc work fine too :)

Bottom line, just find the 9355093 8 pin serial EEPROM, take a soldering iron and a very small screwdriver/knife.
Heat pin #8 and lift/pry *very* carefully so it no longer contacts board.

that's it.

http://www.tranzistoare.ro/datasheets/134/80474_DS.pdf
Here is a datasheet to the chip if you need help figuring out which is pin 8
(9355093 = 24c08 EEPROM)



On the MP3 Head Unit circuit board there are two small 8 pin EEPROMS near the pushbutton/tone button area.
One that says AMI, the other says 9355093

The one you want is 9355093 .

BTW, with a new HU I obviously lost the Impala specific 'hold display' button to customize the impala body module settings.
Nevertheless it still retains the settings I last programmed with the previous HU. (which can be plugged again in a pinch if needed to alter any of these settings)
On the new HU, if you hold '6' for a while you can THANKFULLY switch the chimes to a lower volume.


Disclaimer: I have not tested this in any other scenario other than the above
(15216905 MP# HU from a Chevy S10). YMMV but in my opinion, provided you have some soldering skills and follow ESD precautions, the risk of lifting the power pin on the EEPROM is low and can be reversed easily if any issues.

Thanks for the reply, It's good to know that I possibly didn't buy a paper weight for $130. It'll probably be a little while before I can tell you the results but I'll befinately have my father who's an engineer do that for me. I asked so many people about this problem and this is the only reply that has made any sense. I look foreward to testing it and letting you know what happens. Thanks again

I read your post and I just performed the fix. I will get back to you tomorrow to tell if it works or not. Ive been driving myself crazy over it.:runaround:



Thanks
Matt

YAY it works!

I cut pin 8 on the eeprom and the radio works. I put it in my 1986 fiero.

Thanks

Just did this on an RDS non-MP3 AM/FM CD unit out of an 03 Cavalier LS Sport (for my 04 Cavalier base) with a few ill-side effects. Maybe it was just the way I did it. The unit works (with the CAL ERROR display). The screen shows the tape icon (tho there is no tape player). The CD button doesn't function properly, and over a long period of time, it doesn't remember my radio stations or sound settings. The time, and CD position did however stay in memory. Overall, It works so I'm happy, my base CD player got busted up and stopped working.

Yo - thanks, man. I bought an ebay radio for my 2000 Montana - no wonder the guy took 27.50 - the local gm dealers (and by the way there are only 2 left out of probably 10 in the area a few years ago) are not real eager to help - talked to them on the phone, they weren't even clear on the diff between theftlock 1 and 2 (they were asking if I had pressed buttons 2 and 3, etc) and they wanted $100 plus just to look at it - no guarantees. I was figuring to throw in the towel and buy another aftermarket radio. :banghead:

To get to the point, I found the little eprom you so precisely described, popped loose what I hoped was pin number 8 (check out the link if you are scoping this out), and now it works perfectly. :smokin: The cassette player is a little marginal, but I can pull the one from the old receiver - at this point I've had them both apart about 5 times, I can do it like a lrrp field stripping an M16. My wife is totally annoyed with me for spending countless hours on an old radio, but it is such a pleasure when it finally clicks in. The internet (and anonymous geniuses) have changed my life again. Very gratifying. It's a tinker guy think - she wouldn't understand.

Brilliant piece of research on your part - this news must be spread - I see baffled querys about this all over, with the most reasonable responses being "you've got to go to the dealer to get the codes cleared". Which I would have been happy to spend $30, or maybe even $50 to do - if they were half way cool and said, "look, we'll figure it out and if we can't, give us $20 bucks. We are talking 15 minutes (and clean hands) max with a competent mechanic and the data analyzer. But since it is generally such a ream job, I strongly recommend snipping the little wire. And we should spread the good word.

Thanks,

Doc Benway
Harvard '06 (that's 1906, you whippersnapper)
Bob Hill

To the guy who put it in the 86 Fiero-

I bought a newer 6-disc in-dash changer that I'm trying to put in my 97 Grand Prix. The thing is I can't get the radio to turn on, since the class II radios lack a switched power wire in their harness. I hooked up the power and ground, and I can load discs and use the clock, put it won't turn on. Does the data wire supply some sort of ignition on signal?

How did you hook this up?

Find a wiring pin-out diagram for the connector on the back of the radio. There are leads for the constant and switched power as a backup. It is backward-compatible.

Thanks for the reply. I did find one, and added a wire to the harness for the switched power, not surprisingly it's the pin right next to the constant power. However, it still won't turn on when I give it power on both the constant and switched pins. Did you have this problem? I cracked the radio open and as far as I can tell the switched power pin is attached inside and connected to some circuit on the board. I wonder if you have to desolder that eeprom before it will recognize a signal from the switched power source?

So- did you even attempt to install this using switched power without desoldering the eeprom? Or did you remove that pin first?

Went ahead and desoldered that eeprom, causes the radio display to not work at all? I'm about to give it up put this radio back on ebay unless anyone has any great ideas. Maybe the single-disc MP3 radios are an entirely different beast than the 6-discs. Oh well.

BUMP

I have done this on a couple of radios. The MP3s act differently than the others and the layout is slightly different. On my MP3, the radio stations and sound settings are lost after the car is off for a little bit just as a previous poster stated. I am going to solder the pin back on and find a dealer and stop this. Note, the rest of my post deals with the eeprom soldered to the board in normal status: I noticed that when the car is in ACC, the radio functions perfectly and when the car is put into on, the radio locks after the signal from the class 2. However, what is actually telling the radio to communicate with class 2 at the moment the car is turned on? The reason I ask this is because if I unplug the class 2 and then turn the car to "on" right away, I can see the radio lock before the 10 seconds end and the screen turns off...however, if I have the key in ACC, I can pull the class 2 and the radio will go off in 10 seconds without locking....therefore, something is telling the radio to look at the class 2 and lock if the information does not match or if there is no information at all. I grounded out the class 2 with my multimeter and watched the voltage signals, when the car goes on, it spikes to 3V for a second and then keeps transmitting its serial data that shows up in varying voltages bouncing around from .1 to .4V.

I hope I am being clear.. =\

I know the radio gets its information through the data bus from the bcm, but the act of the radio locking when the data bus is unplugged and the car is turned on does tell me that another signal is being transmitted somewhere to the radio somehow... I grounded out all of my other wires with the multimeter and saw no changes from ACC to ON for any of them so I don't know what is changing in order to tell the radio "check out the data bus now to see if you're not stolen!" =P

Yeah, anyway.. You guys get the jist of it. If we can somehow figure out and stop this change going to the radio when the car is switched on from ACC, then we don't have to worry about anything. The radio will retain all of the information and we won't see any calibration signals. At least for me.... I don't see any calibration or anything as long as I keep using ACC (with the eeprom still connected, that is).

Thank U so much for this tip.

I already unlocked a RDS Delco Radio (this hasn’t MP3). I tried 2 times because the EEPROM was slight different and this was difficult to identify which was the pin 8…so when I lifted a wrong pin the radio was unlocked but without sound :banghead: and many options were not working :screwy:, so I soldered the pin again and tried with other pin and this time the radio was unlocked and 100% functional :lol2: :lol:(the memories, sound, and all functions are working as expected and no CAL ERROR is displayed in the screen).

Hey all! Trying to do this and it seems like we have been pulling all the wrong ones...we have pulled and reattached each of the corner ones and with 3 out of the four we got the "cal error" and then it went straight to error and didnt do anything. with one it stayed locked. we are trying to make the radio in a 2000 venture a cd player which came form a 2000 venture. any help would be appreciated! thanks!

all works fine accept am,fm presets lost when car is shutoff.any help there
Thanks

Have a Radio/stereo/cd from 2004 silverado. GM part no. 10357894 , Delphi Part No. 12244929 . I can't get the radio to light up or show me LOC message. Pin Outs are as follows for the 24 pin plug.
Looking at it from with the 12 pins to the top B is on left and A on the right.
12-b------Park 12A -------GND
11 -------RF + 11 --------RR +
10 RF - 10---------RR-
9-------LR- 9---------LF -
8 LR+ 8---------LF +
7 RUI 2 7---------RUI 1
6 AMP Mute 6---------RUI REF OUT
5 N/C 5---------ANT GND
4 DIM + 4---------FM DET
3 SW 12V OUT 3---------RSA Enable
2 IGN 12 V 2---------CLASS 2 B
1 BATT 12 V 1---------CLASS 2 A

I have wired this up on bench with battery and 4 speakers, both 12v Batt and IGN. and GND. I get no response from radio but the clock and the cd player operate. Any ideas on why no power is getting to radio section.?

all works fine accept am,fm presets lost when car is shutoff.any help there
Thanks

Hey there. I know what you mean. I found this to be data bus related. If you're running it by 12 volt ignition, and you have a GM vehicle older than 1995, you can connect the E&C data buss, however, you may not have any access to any external add ons such as XM or a CD changer, however, it will keep it's memory. If you connect it to the data bus in a GM vehicle newer than 1995 (E&C or class 2), you should not experience any issues at all.

I hope this helps,
Starflare5.

Have a Radio/stereo/cd from 2004 silverado. GM part no. 10357894 , Delphi Part No. 12244929 . I can't get the radio to light up or show me LOC message. Pin Outs are as follows for the 24 pin plug.
Looking at it from with the 12 pins to the top B is on left and A on the right.
12-b------Park 12A -------GND
11 -------RF + 11 --------RR +
10 RF - 10---------RR-
9-------LR- 9---------LF -
8 LR+ 8---------LF +
7 RUI 2 7---------RUI 1
6 AMP Mute 6---------RUI REF OUT
5 N/C 5---------ANT GND
4 DIM + 4---------FM DET
3 SW 12V OUT 3---------RSA Enable
2 IGN 12 V 2---------CLASS 2 B
1 BATT 12 V 1---------CLASS 2 A

I have wired this up on bench with battery and 4 speakers, both 12v Batt and IGN. and GND. I get no response from radio but the clock and the cd player operate. Any ideas on why no power is getting to radio section.?

I'm not sure where you got that info, but I have attached the standard pinout info for a Delphi Class 2 head unit from Delphi themselves.

Also, remember, to get it to power up through the 12V ignition, you must dis-engage that pin on that EEprom first. With this pin engaged, it causes the head unit to be powered on only when given permission by the data buss.

I hope this helps.

I had an electrical short and my Theftlock was activated.

After running around the internet for 3 days, I found this solution.

I tried lifting the #8 pin, that did not work and resulted in ERROR and still did not function.

Reaching the point of frustration, and the option to replace the radio at less than the $100 cost that the dealer wanted to charge me to take 5 minutes with a Tech II scanner, I removed the 9355093 chip entirely and VIOLA, it works!

THEFTLOCK is disabled, AM/FM, RDS (clock update), Radio Presets, CD / CASSETTE, all function as normal.

I do get the CAL ERROR for 2 seconds when I power on the radio, but no problems arise from it.

I know this is an OLD post, but I wanted to add my 2 cents if someone else has this issue and comes across this post, they can fix it.

I dont know anymore than NUKU, the OP, but with the amazing detail, I was able to bring this zombie hu back to life.

THANKS TO YOU ALL!!

Hi there,

I found an interesting side effect and, I'm not sure if this applies to the newer MP3 CD head units. As an experiment in this before I got my Mp3 head unit, I decided to test this article on a non-MP3 CD RDS Delphi head unit made in 2003 that I picked up from a junk yard for 10 bucks. From what I found out, the way that 9355093 chip allows the unit to turn on is basically like a serial relay. When the class 2 tells it to turn on the head unit, it basically turns the chip off and allows the 12volt memory/battery constant to power the head unit through 2 separate circuts. The ETR main power is the first, and the amplifier, power antenna, and accessory power are part of the second. If you simply disconnect just pin 8 on the chip, you turn off power to it and also disconnect the 12 volt memory from powering on the ETR portion of the head unit and allow the 12 volt ignition to power it on, however, 12 volt memory may remain still running to the amplifiers, power antenna out and accessory out. If you remove the chip completely, this defeats the 12 volt memory power from powering on that second circut and allows it to be controlled by 12 volt ignition as well. Once I recieve my MP3 CD head unit from 2006, I'll let you know my findings.

A note on the internal amplifiers: If power is still running to them without the main radio, this can cause them to heat up.

Thank you and I hoipe this helps most of you,

Starflare5.

Hi there,

I found an interesting side effect and, I'm not sure if this applies to the newer MP3 CD head units. As an experiment in this before I got my Mp3 head unit, I decided to test this article on a non-MP3 CD RDS Delphi head unit made in 2003 that I picked up from a junk yard for 10 bucks. From what I found out, the way that 9355093 chip allows the unit to turn on is basically like a serial relay. When the class 2 tells it to turn on the head unit, it basically turns the chip off and allows the 12volt memory/battery constant to power the head unit through 2 separate circuts. The ETR main power is the first, and the amplifier, power antenna, and accessory power are part of the second. If you simply disconnect just pin 8 on the chip, you turn off power to it and also disconnect the 12 volt memory from powering on the ETR portion of the head unit and allow the 12 volt ignition to power it on, however, 12 volt memory may remain still running to the amplifiers, power antenna out and accessory out. If you remove the chip completely, this defeats the 12 volt memory power from powering on that second circut and allows it to be controlled by 12 volt ignition as well. Once I recieve my MP3 CD head unit from 2006, I'll let you know my findings.

A note on the internal amplifiers: If power is still running to them without the main radio, this can cause them to heat up.

Thank you and I hope this helps most of you,

Starflare5.

Howdy everybody,

Well, I got the radio with the exact same part number: 15216905, however, this head unit was more different on the inside than described. Instead of it having the theftlock/security chip located near the corner of the board towrard the front of the unit, it was located directly in the middle of the board. I removed the chip and then tested to see if it would work off of 12 volt ignition and had no a no go. Here's what I've figured out so far; Any of the Delphi/Delco radios made newer that 2003, that do not have the date sticker on top, and have the manufactuer date and a Delphi part number and a GM part number printed on the side sticker, are designed with an internal programmed feature that only allows them to be powered on via the Class II data bus, however, can be taken to a dealer to be programmed to operate via 12 volt ignition. Since I'm not really willing to fork out much more money for this thing, I am going to look for an alternative way to bypass it on this type of radio and will let you all know my findings.

Thank you,

Starflare5.

Perhaps google the P# off the Eeprom and replace it with a blank one???? couple bucks.....

Hey guys,

I know this an old thread, but, I thought I'd let you all know of my findings in this case. I decided to do this myself in order to have my radio control my factory compatible CD changer instead of using an FM modulator. First of all, you can actually make a newer Delco/Delphi head unit work without class 2 data buss and/or without programming by unlocking, or, technically "jailbreaking" the unit. All newer Delco/Delphi newer head units with a "Band" button and/or the multi-disc symbol are both CD changer and/or XM radio compatible which can give you a few more options. They are also all pretty backwards compatible with a few exceptions.

How to make the head unit work is rather simple. As described in the previous post, You can de-solder pin 8 on the security chip marked 9355093, however, I have dug deeper than that and thought I'd share with all of you my findings. First of all, I recommend simply removing the chip completely. After you de-solder pin 8, the head unit becomes automatically compatible with every GM class 2 vehicle out there, and, in some casses, even E&C and non data bus vehicles, and, there is basically no point to leaving the chip in otherwise. This chip is also what causes a GM tech 2 scan tool to free and restrict certain features of the radio as well such as XM and others. If you're wanting a head unit that is going to be compatible with all vehicles, and, will power o via 12 volt ignition, you want a Delco/Delphi unit made prior to 2004 with a date code sticker on the top panel, and, no Delphi part number on the side sticker. Inside the head unit, you will find the security chip located close to a front corner of the main board. For example; On a Chevrolet head unit, the chip should be located on the underside of the board toward the front inside opposite the audio adjustment knob. On a Pontiac head units, you'll find it in the same corner toward the front opposite the Traf, Prog/Type, and HR/MN buttons. Before removing the chip, remove the faceplate, front metal panel, and, if applicable, the cassette drive for easy access to the chip.

Class 2 head units made from 2004 to around 2006 and some newer, have the date code and a Delphi part number on the side panel. These units are designed to power on by data bus only and will not power on by 12 volt ignition power. These units also have the chip directly in the middle underside of the main board.

For either type, I recommend removing the chip instead of taking it to a dealer for programming where as in some cases, programming may cause features to be restricted such as a CD changer or XM radio tuner.

Precautionary note: On vehicles older than 1995 with an early E&C data buss, I do not recommend connecting it to the unit due to it will prevent the unit from accessing any external add-ons or devices, however, will help it to retain it's preset and audio settings if it is connected. On vehicles made 1995 or newer with E&C 1.5 and/or Class 2, connecting the unit to the data buss
should not cause any issues. Also, remember, in this case, "Calibrate" and/or "Cal Error" is a good thing.

Some head units may have a memory loss issue with presets, last function used, and EQ position when they are not connected to a data buss.

Remember, all newer units have a delayed power off sequence even when RAP is not involved. This is residual power leaving the capacitors of the unit, and, if you have an amp connected, it is normal to hear a bass pop from the speakers a few seconds after you have turned off the unit or vehicle.

The part numbers of at least the MP3 head units compatible with all vehicles with or without Class 2 data bus are:

10348717 (Chevrolet Head Unit)
10348716 (Pontiac Head Unit)
15216905 Series 1 (Chevrolet/GMC Truck head unit)


Compatible with vehicles with E&C 1.5 or class 2 only:

15216905 Series 2 (Chevrolet/GMC Truck head unit)
28016697 (Pontiac Head Unit)

Please take note that this can apply to almost all Delco/Delphi class 2 head units. Just to let you all know, I have the Pontiac unit in my vehicle, however, it has the memory issues.

I hope this helps.

Starflare5.

I read your post on Automotive Forums regarding the eprom removal.
I have a Delco p/n 10315119 w/o tape w/ CD from 2001 MC. I opened the metal "bottom" to acces the 9355093 eprom. I do not see that number on any chip on the main board (6"x9"). There are three eproms on edge w/ heat sink plate. Numbers and size(.25"x.36") do not match. Re-reading your post and nuku's post, is the eprom 9355093 behind the face panel. I removed the face, prying the eight plastic locks loose. There is a board 3"x9" behind the face place held in place by very small screws. That is the only other board I see; also it reflects on the "hr.mn buttons" terminology.
There is a very small (approx .25"x.36") "eprom" on the 6x9 board however it does not notate 9355093.
(Anyone) Please clarify

FYI. I sent a 10335223 to a repair center just before reading the posts. They told me they would replace the eprom with a new one and burn it to fit any GM car. Cost: $50 plus $12 postage. Their refernce to eprom was what led me to search "eprom GM RDS" and find this post. Maybe $62 is cheap for an electronic lesson :smile:
Hey guys,

I know this an old thread, but, ....snip.

Hey there,

The Eeprom chip you are attempting to locate is where there are 2 small 8 pin chips located (if facing the head unit's main center board only from the rear underside up) in the right hand corner of the board toward the front with one chip after another. The security 9355093 chip is the one located closest to the front edge of the board. The writing may not be seeable on the chip. In fact, it is printed so faintly in some cases, it may appear to not be printed on at all. I believe this was for identity protection purposes on Delphi's part, however, instead of hiding the chip, they made it stick out like a sore thumb. Remember that this Eeprom is located on the main board only and not the faceplate.

I hope this clarifies this for you.

By the way, what is this service ceter you sent yours to? Just wondering for reference. Also, take note, with the eeprom installed/replaced, it prevents the unit from being turned on via 12 volt ignition.

Thank you,
Starflare5.



I read your post on Automotive Forums regarding the eprom removal.
I have a Delco p/n 10315119 w/o tape w/ CD from 2001 MC. I opened the metal "bottom" to acces the 9355093 eprom. I do not see that number on any chip on the main board (6"x9"). There are three eproms on edge w/ heat sink plate. Numbers and size(.25"x.36") do not match. Re-reading your post and nuku's post, is the eprom 9355093 behind the face panel. I removed the face, prying the eight plastic locks loose. There is a board 3"x9" behind the face place held in place by very small screws. That is the only other board I see; also it reflects on the "hr.mn buttons" terminology.
There is a very small (approx .25"x.36") "eprom" on the 6x9 board however it does not notate 9355093.
(Anyone) Please clarify

FYI. I sent a 10335223 to a repair center just before reading the posts. They told me they would replace the eprom with a new one and burn it to fit any GM car. Cost: $50 plus $12 postage. Their refernce to eprom was what led me to search "eprom GM RDS" and find this post. Maybe $62 is cheap for an electronic lesson :smile:

I only see one eprom chip on the face of the main nboard (not face board) with four pins on either side. It is near the right front with "bottom side up" close to a plug. The number is 56585 TBDK.
There are two eproms on the very right edge one after the other; both 8 pin; one (second on back) is straight 8 the other(first to the front) looks staggered 8 both in upright orientation; They are backed up with the heat sink plate. Neither of them say 9355093. I did originally look at both of these eproms; removed the sink and looked for numbers; they were visible but no 9355093. I returned them w/ white contact grease.

The center is ARJ International
snip... "prevents the unit from being turned on via 12 volt ignition."

So how would one turn on the radio? The tech will call me Monday with a quote on a few other items. I will confirm it must operate correctly. He told me he burns the new chip and I might see the CAL ERROR(?) momentarily on start. Should I have him just remove altogether and not replace? NO burn..


Hey there,

The Eeprom chip you are attempting to locate is where there are 2 small 8 pin chips located (if facing the head unit's main center board only from the rear underside up) in the right hand corner of the board toward the front with one chip after another. The security 9355093 chip is the one located closest to the front edge of the board. The writing may not be seeable on the chip. In fact, it is printed so faintly in some cases, it may appear to not be printed on at all. I believe this was for identity protection purposes on Delphi's part, however, instead of hiding the chip, they made it stick out like a sore thumb. Remember that this Eeprom is located on the main board only and not the faceplate.

I hope this clarifies this for you.

By the way, what is this service ceter you sent yours to? Just wondering for reference. Also, take note, with the eeprom installed/replaced, it prevents the unit from being turned on via 12 volt ignition.

Thank you,
Starflare5.

I received the 10335223 Impala 2004 RDS radio w/ CD back from tech. I installed it and it works as it should. They removed old & burned new eprom. NO CAL ERROR as they said MIGHT occur on startup. I viewed the main board from tech work and saw nothing unusual. I did not see the eproms or if they are visible, they are different than OEM.

I only ...
snip.....

Hello all,
Can a 2001 cd player from a Malibu work in a 2004 Impala?

Thanks
Steve

Yes if you unlock the 2001 player.
Is it RDS?
Does it require a code?
OR Does the BCM signal the radio to operate.
I sent my 2004 RDS out for an EProm replacement as I could not find the eprom nor was I able to have others define or locate it on my radio. Some disconnect the eprom. Mine was replaced and burnt to be accepted to any GM vehicle.
Hello all,
Can a 2001 cd player from a Malibu work in a 2004 Impala?

Thanks
Steve

Hey all,
I have been puzzling this one for a while - an '01 Malibu cd/cassette player to replace an '03 Silverado Cd only. After the dealer couldn't unlock it, and I determined the VIN issue, I was overjoyed to find this thread to point my probings inside. But after lifting pin 8, removing the EPROM completely, swapping the two, etc. I only managed to remove functionality completely from the '01 unit (shows 'ERROR') with the chip replaced (before it functioned on acc. as previously noted in this thread), and leave the original functioning but showing 'Cal Error'. No biggy there, but if Wallstreet22 could a avail me of the info on the tech shop that burns a vehicle-specific EPROM, I'd be most appreciative. I would like to give that a shot. I just spent a frustrating evening with the soldering iron, only to return things to how they started!
The '03 unit has the EPROM in the center of the board, as was stated above; apparently, putting an older unit in its place isn't like putting newer in older vehicle. Any advice/input would be appreciated. I quite appreciate these lovely GM engineers; particularly their audible safety warnings system being run through the radio (?!?), making an after-market unit equally hassle-causing.
Cheers ;-]- Tony

Yes if you unlock the 2001 player.
Is it RDS?
Does it require a code?
OR Does the BCM signal the radio to operate.
I sent my 2004 RDS out for an EProm replacement as I could not find the eprom nor was I able to have others define or locate it on my radio. Some disconnect the eprom. Mine was replaced and burnt to be accepted to any GM vehicle.

I don't Have the radio yet but will by today. I'll check to see if it has RDS and then remove the EEPROM and install this weekend.

Will keep you all posted on progress.

Thanks

Yes if you unlock the 2001 player.
Is it RDS?
Does it require a code?
OR Does the BCM signal the radio to operate.
I sent my 2004 RDS out for an EProm replacement as I could not find the eprom nor was I able to have others define or locate it on my radio. Some disconnect the eprom. Mine was replaced and burnt to be accepted to any GM vehicle.

Hi WS22,
I opened up my radio and found the correct EEPROM on the right side of the deck near the face plate and audio controls. There are two 8 pin chips next to each other and the correct chip is the one with the very faint printing on it.

My next step is to desolder this chip and try installing it tomorrow.

Thanks

I need help on my car I want to cuztomize it in something different on the style I want but I dont know how.

Hi WS22,
I opened up my radio and found the correct EEPROM on the right side of the deck near the face plate and audio controls. There are two 8 pin chips next to each other and the correct chip is the one with the very faint printing on it.

My next step is to desolder this chip and try installing it tomorrow.

Thanks

Well I screwed something up removing the EEPROM and the modified radio is dead.

Took it apart to see if I could use the CD player in the old radio but there is no connector on the old radio for a CD player. Oh well, I'm back to a radio/cassette for now.

You guys already know this but what a pain in the butt to get the radio out. It feels like you're taking the whole dash out just to get to the radio. Kind of sad that the Chevy engineers thought this dash set up was a good idea. Heck, it's so easy to remove a radio from a Malibu. Why would they design the Impala this way???

Oh well, lesson learned on multiple fronts. I'm going to keep my eyes open for another deck to try again.

Thanks all

Might try soldering the chip back? Maybe you've tried that already :-/. Yeah, I've been poking around inside too many of these things, too long, so I feel for ya. But when you have a success, sitting back to listen to it hum some good tunes feels great ;). I'm still waiting for that point on this latest project though...
Wishing success, ;-] Tony

Might try soldering the chip back? Maybe you've tried that already :-/. Yeah, I've been poking around inside too many of these things, too long, so I feel for ya. But when you have a success, sitting back to listen to it hum some good tunes feels great ;). I'm still waiting for that point on this latest project though...
Wishing success, ;-] Tony

Thanks Tony,
Unfortunately, I had to cut part of the chip out because I couldn't get a couple of legs to unsolder. oh well, I'll keep looking for a salvage yard radio for cheap. Sure miss playing CDs though.

Steve

Steve,
Yeah, I came close to destroying mine getting it loose. Wallstreet22 mentioned cross-compatible EPROMs; I would be interested to know who burns those to see about getting one for my radio - possibly such a thing would work for yours too.
Tony

Yes if you unlock the 2001 player.
Is it RDS?
Does it require a code?
OR Does the BCM signal the radio to operate.
I sent my 2004 RDS out for an EProm replacement as I could not find the eprom nor was I able to have others define or locate it on my radio. Some disconnect the eprom. Mine was replaced and burnt to be accepted to any GM vehicle.

PM thecat100 at aol dot com
Thanks Tony,
Unfortunately, I had to cut part of the chip out because I couldn't get a couple of legs to unsolder. oh well, I'll keep looking for a salvage yard radio for cheap. Sure miss playing CDs though.

Steve

Anyone have any luck with a nav/dvd/cd head unit?

What a PITA.

DELCO # 25766997

Found one SMT part that could be it.

#9375366

Thanks for the help. Couldn't see spending $50 - $100 to unlock a head unit I bought for $35 on eBay. I unsoldered the power pin to the EEPROM. This unlocked the unit but it would flash every few seconds (as if it were losing power). So, I went ahead and just removed the whole chip. It works fine but, aside from the time, doesn't remember anything (radio presets, manual equalizer settings, CD track and time).

Hey guys,

I figured out why the memory issues exist when not using the data bus to operate the head unit, and, the simple answer is that when on a class 2 data bus, the head unit essentially never really shuts off completely. Instead, the head unit goes into a "sleep mode" type of function so that it may remain powered on for such things as chimes and OnStar. This continous hidden power on mode is what also keeps the unit for loosing it's memory.

The head units also used to act as a communication bridge middle man for OnStar and needed to be "awakened" at any given time for this system to work. By the time the GMLAN head units were released, due to queues from Panasonic, both GM and Delphi figured out a way to connect Onstar directly to the BCM, but, also have the head unit power completely down, yet still able to power on at a moments notice.

I haven't figured out yet how to re-enable this "sleep mode" in the units at this time.

Hi guys, thanks for all the threads! took out the eeprom chip all together. No problems other than memory loss. i took a 03' HU out of a local salvage yard, modded the HU. Works in my 05' work truck but not my 05' Silverado. What gives right!! anyhoo still Tinkering!! Keep up the research guys.

Hi. I had a 2004 Chev Avalance which I bought brand new. Shortly thereafter, I removed the original factory 6-disk headunit and replaced it with a factory GM 2005 NAV which I purchased from eBay. The orig headunit was put into the garage for years until I traded in my Avalanche last year for a new silverado hd. The NAV HU had been in my car so long that I completely forgot the truck had a different radio at one time. In any event, while cleaning out my garage recently, I found it and it seems like such a waste to have it just sitting here.

Is it possible to just use this on my garage bench with a 12V supply or will I need to do all the eprom chip removal thing that you all speak of here. Also, does anyone know the pinout schem for the rear? I only want/need the power and speaker connections. Although the Avalance was a 2004 model, I did purchase and take delivery in late 2003. Any help appreciated.

Has anyone tried doing some kind of data dump on the eprom?
I've messed with eproms in ecm's a bit,wondering if this can be dumped and the data sorted?
Maybe a search for some part of the vin in the data will bring up something?

Thanks for all the great info,might be trying your fix.

If you know the code, you can just turn it off...

Or are you saying, you are locked out and can't unlock the radio?

If you mean me,than no I don't know the code.
The vehicle had BCM issues triggering the passkey,I programmed out the passkey. After restarting the radio randomly locked itself and have not been able to reset.
I am showing faults on the class 2 data link across 4-5 modules,so i'm pretty sure the radio is simply getting a corrupted vin signal.
I would rather figure out what is wrong,but this is a $600 car and they don't wanna pay for M-time diag or a dealer reprogram.

So I told them to let me try this eprom removal as a nuclear option before installing something aftermarket.

I do not have a techII,only a tech1-and it won't touch the bcm.
Still saving for an MDI.

I have a 6 disc CD changer from a salvage yard. Its Gm part # is 15234915, Delphi part # 21002195, manufactured date 10/19/05. I am putting it in a 2004 gmc sierra 1500 wt 4x4. It came out of a 2006 Chevrolet 2500 wt. Has the exact same wiring harness as my gmc.I took the chip out as I have read to do and I have seen on YouTube. Everything comes on like it should. Retains clock, settings, etc... Shows CAL ERR when cut it on, but and everything works. Except, it has no volume and wont play. If I hit the search button it just keeps searching. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Hello all, I am in this fight with all of you. I have successfully obtained a dump from the eeprom that gives us all this trouble. However, I do not have any knowledge on what needs modified. Any one that can help???? I have attached a copy of the dump from the eeprom. Would love some help!!!! You will need to unzip it first.

I just did something similiar, I just removed the chip. Same result, it says it is initializing and shows the cassette tape icon which I don't have. The radio had a date of 2001 and I put it into my 2007 Chevy Express. This radio/CD has better reception and sound than the stock radio that was in it. Plus my tuner dial didn't work well anymore.
If you want a quick way to get the radio to work temporarily, you can (key turned off) press and hold (seek>) and the (5) channel button together and then at the same time hold the power button on. All 3 buttons at the same time. This should turn the radio on, then start your vehicle. The radio should work, the CD may work, the station buttons may not and you may not be able to switch AM/FM/CD. Once you shut off the ignition you will have to start the process over again.

has anyone succesfully done this with GM part 10357886? AM/FM/6CD from 2003/2004s?

keep seeing only the AM/FM/CD or AM/Fm/CD/Tape versions.

I have an 04 colorado and got that part from another 04 colorado and would rather not pay 100 bucks for the dealer to tell me they couldn't program it as all dealers pretty much just blanket say "it may not work" which to me means "It won't or we won't really try"

Ok.

I got it to work with my 2004 6 disc from a colorado.

removed PIN 8, all is well.

photos and stuff.

http://starshipvonbraun.com/ss/radio/radio.html

Does anyone know where this chip is located on a delco am/fm cassette player #09354756?

I have unlock my radio by pulling the chip....but I have lost volume. Can anyone help!!!???

Hi,
I have replaced my original UB1 stereo cassette (pn 15198701) with a 6 CD UB6 (pn 15185935) both RDS; in myu 2003 1500 Silverado. I removed the eeprom completely and all works
except no memory on am/fm presets.
Any help would be appreciated to get memory back to presets.
I read here that one guy had an eeprom installed and programmed by AJR International for all GM; and there is no direct link on the web related to automotive eeproms. I cannot find the correct AJR International?

I did work on spare radio pn 10359566 (no RDS on front) and disconnected pin 8 only (pwr) and no sound; removed eeprom completely and
not pwr to unit.

Thanks. any help for memory presets appreciated.

Landguy

The Vin is stored in the last line of the Eprom chip. Just the last 6 digits. With an editor you can change to the last 6 on your car re-flash the chip and reinstall.

Does anyone know if this procedure would work on a 2001 Silverado 15766343 radio, single CD driver? This original radio, unmodified in any manner doesn't work, the lights come on but the display screen on the upper right is blank. It seems to have stopped working a year ago when a new BCM (Body Computer Module) was put in the vehicle to fix a 0.6 amp battery drain. The mechanic who put in the BCM says he doubts if radio was Vin locked going back that far in time. Should I take it apart and look for a removed EEPROM 24C08B chip or a chip with leg 8 cut?

I have the radio apart now, here are some photos. Is the eeprom close enough based on only being one digit different from the initial instructions on this topic?

So I have the 6 disc changer, and the original radio went out. I got an exact replacement for it from a local salvage yard. I tested it first and it powered on and did say locked, I opened up the casing located the eeprom chip, and removed it. Plugged back into Tahoe and now nothing it won't even power on. Any ideas or help would be appreviated.

Hello, New to the forum. I have read More than a few posts about disabling the eprom to bypass the TheftLock that GM was so nice to give us. I am working with a "04-05 Pontiac Grand Am Sunfire Monsoon Radio AMFM CD GM Part No. 22724376" My Hope is to install it into an 04 Pontiac Vibe. I have read of several different results in doing this, by either lifting pin 8, and by removing the ic all together.
Has anyone done THIS radio, and if so, what are the results for each of the options.
Of course the lcd display lights are burned out on Both the Vibe OEM radio, and the New MP3 radio I would like to use. It is my intention to upgrade the bulbs with 12v led bulbs. If and when I get this to fly, I will pass along any results to the form. Thanks

I have never heard of that......basically, it's not the Theftlock that is the problem, it's the VIN # that is programmed into the radio.....if it doesn't match the VIN of the car, then there are communication problems....

As for the LED's, they don't usually burnout, they last forever.....it's the circuit board that feeds them that is the problem.....sometimes it's just a soldered joint, sometimes it's the board itself....