another coolant question 3.8 l

2000, 3.8, 130,000 km, 30,000 km ago did flush and fill. 2 weeks ago when doing a P/S flush fill I noticed the coolant reservoir was down a bit so I filled it an inch or so. Yesterday my wife phoned (she's primary driver) and said the heat didn't work. Cold day, short drive, she thought later when I talked to her is was ok. Today she phones with the "it's making a funny noise" call, comes home. Maybe 10 km total. When I look under the hood the coolant reservoir is empty, engine hot although the gauge is only reading about 3/4 hot, where i usually sits at mid way.

So, I opened the reservoir and steam is coming out. Good or bad I added water from my hose which was hot water (the 1 luxury I have on my driveway). I was half expecting the block to crack in 2. Anyway after it cooled down I ran it. The water overflowed from the reservoir, then the fans kicked in and drained the reservoir which I'd filled up a bit again. This was with the lid off the reservoir. Anyway, I fiddled a bit, couldn't find a leak, no obvious problems. Good looking exhaust (no clouds or sweet smell). Heat works on hot and cold in the van no problem. No rear heater fyi. I did also just get a report from Blackstone labs on my most recent oil change and it was fine. No coolant in the oil at all. The coolant in the reservoir does look a bit rusty/cloudy but pretty typical for 2 years old I think. When I put the cap back on and ran the engine, fans kicked in, coolant stayed pretty level. The only thing funny was the main coolant hose to the block before the tstat didn't feel really hard at all, just kinda soft like a garden hose. Hmm.

So, I'm going to do a flush and fill and maybe replace the tstat. Is it normal for a cap off rise and fall of coolant when running and draining like that when the fan kicks in?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Piper

One thing that I had happen.....I would find that my radiator cap would not hold pressure.
I was constanly cleaning the seating surfaces...and it would seem to work......very temporary though.
So, I bought a new radiator cap in the correct pressure rating for my year.
That solved the pressure problem.
I did NOT get anything fancy....just the regular cap.

It is normal for the fluid level in the overflow bottle to rise and fall somewhat as the motor heats and cools.
This is why they have a "full cold" indiction on the side.
If you still have some air trapped in the system.....the rise and fall could be even more until the air pockets are "burped" out.
IF the overflow went empty.....then you most certainly did have some air in the system that needed to be worked out.

One thing that you should ALWAYS do after doing a coolant flush.....in addition to carefully watching the temperature and shutting down the engine if it shoots up (normal with air trapped in the block....until you let it cool.....and start up again.....slowly burping the air out).
WATCH the coolant level in the overflow bottle for the first few days.....it is not unusual to need to add some coolant as it will go down some as you burp out the remaining air pockets from the system.

I have NEVER been able to get all the air out on that first refill before starting the motor......there is always some air trapped in the motor that takes some time to work out into the radiator....and then out the overflow bottle.

Hopefully, that is all that has happened in your case.
Remember to add coolant in the amount needed to have a 50/50 mix....it is important in summer also.

If you change the thermostat......get the correct temperature rated one for your year........FORD has even been known to change the temperature rating mid-year....so the build date or VIN might help when you purchase a replacement.
The days of "cooler is better" are long gone.....the OBDII system is expecting the temperature to be within a certain range......and mine does not move more than a few degrees while cruising down the highway as monitored at the OBDII port with my ScanGauge.
I have pictures posted, that show the thermostat replacement on my '96.
Important to install the new thermostat with the small "weep hole" UP as shown in my pictures.
Of course.....you will need to pay attention to getting the air out of the system again.
But....that thermostat is 8 years old now....(wow does time fly).....so not a bad idea.
Also....give those hoses a real good look.

Yep, Water expands alot and while running hot with the Coolant Cap off, it will rise a bit and fall a bit even idling if it has a bottle that circulates. The older style Coolant Rez do not rise or fall. They arnt connected to the coolant system, but just connected to the Rad Cap Spring.

When you filled it after it was hot, Im sure it was Boiling in there and forcing it up to the bottle. Without Pressure, the boiling point is low 220s, under pressure its higher. Once it cooled down, it settled down.
Remember these need all the air out, and if any air gets trapped, it wont circulate.

Give it a new thermostat, and a good flush. Leave the cap off while your refilling, and keep squezzin the Thermostat hose until its hot to force the air out. Also Keep the heater on low fan, but ON heat. Once the fans turn on a few times, and its up to the Full level, put your cap on.

Also, To get your Pressure in your system "hosesa', You have to let it cool with the cap on, and then run it until hot. It will bring the pressure up to normal with a higher boiling point 240 250s. If you took the cap off HOT, Your pressure will be nothing and lowering your BP. Once you get a good cold to hot cycle with the cap on, Let it idle until you hear your FANS kick on, then shut off the engine. This will bring your PSI up to the max, and you can look for any leaks, if you missed any. Pressure tester works the best tho!! HEHE

Oh I wanted to say too, The Blend door Controller fails alot on these. When failed you have no heat, and a Click, Knock noise under the dash. Just a Heads up on that.. Does not turn off the Coolant flow to the heater core, but Just blocks the Air flow to the heater core, giving you cold Heat.

so today I go under the hood to do the flush fill on the rad. Last time I did it I ruined the drain cock (plastic POS cracked "in") so I had to drain the rad from the R side bottom hose. Much to my liking I found a cracked in 2 "pinch style" hose clamp. The thing literally fell off the bottom hose. There were some obvious signs of a slow leak. Anyway, new top and bottom rad hoses, clamps tstat etc and my rad is doing great.

So, for those with a 2000ish vintage windstar, take a look at those pinch clamps. If you've got a leak they could well the the culprit.

Piper

so today I go under the hood to do the flush fill on the rad. Last time I did it I ruined the drain cock (plastic POS cracked "in") so I had to drain the rad from the R side bottom hose. Much to my liking I found a cracked in 2 "pinch style" hose clamp. The thing literally fell off the bottom hose. There were some obvious signs of a slow leak. Anyway, new top and bottom rad hoses, clamps tstat etc and my rad is doing great.

So, for those with a 2000ish vintage windstar, take a look at those pinch clamps. If you've got a leak they could well the the culprit.

Piper

Ive seen that alot with those.. They are nice at the factory because it saves time, but any stress on the steel they crack in half. They can be a pain, and some are nice any easy to get too.

It is good to hear that you have the problem solved.