wow it just will not start

ok well i live in montreal canada so ya it is cold and now it is very damp i park the burb a few days a ago and when i went out to start it is just turned and turned and now it JUST WILL NOT START :banghead: there is fire and there is gas i smell the gas (so ya i truned it to much) but i am going crazy trying to start this dam brub that i just buy 1 mounth ago can it be the dampness out side that is doing this :screwy: it is a 1996 burb 5.7 2wd

Dampness probably would not cause it since you have spark and fuel. It can cause you to lose either one, but since you have them I'd say no. Check the spark with a spark tester set to at least 20kV, if you're using a spark plug to check for spark, the gap isn't nearly enough to check accurately outside of the high compression of the cylinder. Did you check the cap/rotor, plugs, and wires?

Check the ECM ( I believe thats what it is called) in the distributer. If still has the factory module in it , it will have a dot of paint on top of it. If that dot is yellow, it is bad. That was what my problem was . I had the original check at one of the parts stores and was told it tested good. One of the guys there looked at it and told me it was bad, and about the yellow dot. I bought a new one and lo and behold, It's ran fine every since. Just a suggestion. That was after replacing the computer, fuel filter, dist cap, rotor bug, IAC, and checking every wire from the computer to each component under the hood.:banghead:

ty j_ri i will check that out to see i bet it is the cap and the rotor
and ty lugnutz24 and it is called (cmp) camshaft position sensor

ty j_ri i will check that out to see i bet it is the cap and the rotor
and ty lugnutz24 and it is called (cmp) camshaft position sensor

have...... spark/gas and no start . disconnect the MAF see if it starts..

j cat i did that i seen it on one of your post and it did not start

Mine had spark and gas, just not much gas. We also checked the injectors. They were firing, just very sporadic. We used a set of LEDs that were made to check it. That was what made us replace the computer. It was ironic that the first thing we checked tested good, then turned out to cost me $200 in parts I didn't need.

yup i just do not want to spend money for nothin so i am asking here for info :grinno:

omg it was -20 here to day went out trun the @@@@###*#@*&* key and the burb just started on the frist trun :banghead:

omg it was -20 here to day went out trun the @@@@###*#@*&* key and the burb just started on the frist trun :banghead:

i would check the ECT resistance.....as temperature varies the resistance changes you can do this with out removing . the resistance measured should be low at -20deg f and at 190deg f about 8,000ohms...I don't have a chart to give the resistances for all temps so if ECT is not correct engines will not start has been found