1994 saturn front passenger side axles replace

1994 Saturn SL1

I want to know how to take off a front axles on the passenger side.............
Somebody told me a cro-bar.....But I dont know how to get it off or is it a special tool I can get it........

And how hard is on when you are not using a lift................I use to jacks

Someone with better/more recent knowledge will hopefully reply. You need to get the outer end of the axle shaft out of the hub first. This would involve loosening up the hub nut first of all - then loosening up the wheel nuts, then jacking the car up. I like to use 6 by 6 blocks of wood about 2 ft long, stacked under each side of the body right below where the front door hinges are. I dont have a lift either, and wont crawl under a car held up only by jacks, or even jackstands (my driveway is gravel/dirt).
You would have to undo the brake caliper I believe, and wire it up so its not hanging by the brake hose. Then pull the rotor off (which may take some hammering with either a soft faced hammer, or with a piece of aluminum about 1/4" thick, so you dont 'dimple' the surface of the rotor. Then you have to get the bottom of the hub assembly unbolted from the lower control arm. ( At this point I alway have someone helping me, with a long prybar.) After ward you will be able to pull the strut/hub assembly outward, and push the nose of the axle back - so it slides out of the rear side of the hub. (Make sure the hub turns smooth and the wheel bearing has no play at all).
Mine is an SL2, and has an intermediate axle that has to be unbolted from the back of the engine block. I dont know if the SL1s had that. Then you can pry the 'intermediate' axle out of the transaxle, levering between the case of the tranny and the inner end of the intermediate shaft. I use a 30" truck tire changing tool called a 'tire spoon, cause it takes a good bit of force for the intermediate shaft to 'pop' out of the transaxle. Be ready to catch some ATF that may drip out.

Good Luck....

Someone with better/more recent knowledge will hopefully reply. You need to get the outer end of the axle shaft out of the hub first. This would involve loosening up the hub nut first of all - then loosening up the wheel nuts, then jacking the car up. I like to use 6 by 6 blocks of wood about 2 ft long, stacked under each side of the body right below where the front door hinges are. I dont have a lift either, and wont crawl under a car held up only by jacks, or even jackstands (my driveway is gravel/dirt).
You would have to undo the brake caliper I believe, and wire it up so its not hanging by the brake hose. Then pull the rotor off (which may take some hammering with either a soft faced hammer, or with a piece of aluminum about 1/4" thick, so you dont 'dimple' the surface of the rotor. Then you have to get the bottom of the hub assembly unbolted from the lower control arm. ( At this point I alway have someone helping me, with a long prybar.) After ward you will be able to pull the strut/hub assembly outward, and push the nose of the axle back - so it slides out of the rear side of the hub. (Make sure the hub turns smooth and the wheel bearing has no play at all).
Mine is an SL2, and has an intermediate axle that has to be unbolted from the back of the engine block. I dont know if the SL1s had that. Then you can pry the 'intermediate' axle out of the transaxle, levering between the case of the tranny and the inner end of the intermediate shaft. I use a 30" truck tire changing tool called a 'tire spoon, cause it takes a good bit of force for the intermediate shaft to 'pop' out of the transaxle. Be ready to catch some ATF that may drip out.

Good Luck....

That is the basic steps that i took. once i removed my caliper i had to remove the caliper holder and the roter just slid off. I removed the tie rod end and the lower ball joint. to get the outer half shaft i took a block of wood and a hammer and tapped the half shaft until it came free. this job isnt bad if you know what you are doing. i did my work off jack stands in a gravel driveway also.

No need to remove the rotor or caliper bracket

You need to (in a nutshell)
-empty the fluid
-remove the wheel
-remove the nut (31mm?) from the axle
-A) undo the strut to spindle bolts
OR
b) remove the spindle from the baljoint
Personally i remove the strut to spinle bolts as its easier. Most will not do this bc it would mean you need an alignment however there is so little play in the stock strut i can align it by eye and have been fine
-Remove the caliper (attach it to the strut with zip ties)
-unattach tierod end from spindle
-undo halfshaft bracket mounted to the engine block
-use BIG hammer to push the axle thru the spindle as far as possible. Then use some brute force and a screwdriver/crow bar and free the axle from the spindle. I found it was easiest by having the spindle turned towards the left.
-use a prybar/screw driver to pull shaft from differential being CAREFUL not to mess up the axle seals.

reverse for instalation

I got the new axles on but I just replace it from the CV joint becuase the the long rod attach to the transmission would not pop out.............But now my seal is leaking..........And when ever i put in regualr trans fluid it comes right out from the axle seal area...............I can only put that thick Lucas trans fluid..............Is there a way I can fix the seal leak with taking the axles off...............

either you damaged the seal or the shaft isnt sitting properly. If you have the engine to strut bracket on with no problems then you damaged the seal. replacement includes taking the axle out. Sorry :/

How exactly did you replace the axle with out taking out of the transmission? You seperated it at the universal?

It ok now I put 1-2 bottles of of lucas transmission fix-it stuff and it is now longer leaking from there...................

But I could not take the axles out of the transmission, so i disconnect the C-V joint/drive shaft which is where it snap out at...........

It ok now I put 1-2 bottles of of lucas transmission fix-it stuff and it is now longer leaking from there...................

But I could not take the axles out of the transmission, so i disconnect the C-V joint/drive shaft which is where it snap out at...........

Interesting. I dont know why you couldnt get it out.

Pay attention to it for the next couple ofdays when backing out of parking spots and such.

Glad it stopped leaking!

when i go in reverse sometimes the transmission jump, and sometime when i am driving forward my transmission jumps when shifting from 1 to 2 gear............. I think it might be my transmission filter or fluid level.......

when i go in reverse sometimes the transmission jump, and sometime when i am driving forward my transmission jumps when shifting from 1 to 2 gear............. I think it might be my transmission filter or fluid level.......

Have you replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? Your stock one is resin and can crack sending false data to the PCM. This sensor is vital to many systems of the car including shift points and TC lock up points.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC0U53w_Htk
Video by Richpin

Also check your charging system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5B54xX_QVg
Video by Richpin

Fluid level is important in an auto. Make sure its at the proper level