Alternator Regulators keep failing

1996 impala SS.. The Alternator and battery was replaced in June 06

12 months later alternator went out had it rebuilt and the battery checked ok, lasted 3 months, regulator failed in alternator, 3 weeks later regulator failed, 1 week regulator failed battery stoned dead. Had Alternator repaired he replaced everything in it, and installed new battery, lasted 1 hour this time. battery dead regulator failed.

Now I don't have a VAT-40 and I can only check the voltage on this. has anyone had problems like this on these ss's. Is there a relay that's causing the regulator to keep failing and draining the battery? I ready to try a NAPA Alternator to see if it's the rebuilder, but I can't see the same thing going out.

I will leave the plug disconnected until I can get it on a VAT-40

Could it be caused from it's security system, the LoJak?????

Help getting ready for the fire sale!!!

1996 impala SS.. The Alternator and battery was replaced in June 06

12 months later alternator went out had it rebuilt and the battery checked ok, lasted 3 months, regulator failed in alternator, 3 weeks later regulator failed, 1 week regulator failed battery stoned dead. Had Alternator repaired he replaced everything in it, and installed new battery, lasted 1 hour this time. battery dead regulator failed.

Now I don't have a VAT-40 and I can only check the voltage on this. has anyone had problems like this on these ss's. Is there a relay that's causing the regulator to keep failing and draining the battery? I ready to try a NAPA Alternator to see if it's the rebuilder, but I can't see the same thing going out.

I will leave the plug disconnected until I can get it on a VAT-40

Could it be caused from it's security system, the LoJak?????

Help getting ready for the fire sale!!!

good choice on vehicle .. your alternator when the regulator goes bad will suck the battery to zero....... what you have to do is make sure the alternator is 140amp not the 105amp..... next before installing the alternator fully charge the dead battery with a 10amp charger..... do not force more than 10 amps into a dead battery or it will be damaged.....now if you have the 140amp alternator [cs144]and this is killing the regulator repeatedly then check for leakage of current at battery with engine off remove neg bat connection place ampmeter between neg bat terminal and ground wire terminal there shall be no greater than 50ma max.....now with fuse removal you should be able to find circuit resposible for draining the battery....if this is the case......where did the alternators come from? who is he ? if the alternators where installed and forced to charge dead battery this would explain some of these issues you have......

thanks for the reply, yes it has the 140 amp alternator and a fully charged NEW battery. The car doesn't have a drain on it, When the regulator fails the women that drives the car or her daughter don't pay attention to the little battery icon on the dash and keeps driving it until the motor quits. the guy that rebuilds these alternators is very well known for his work, even NAPA has him do there special rebuilds. I will drive the car myself for a few days after I have the charging system checked with a VAT-40, since I can only check voltage and not amp output on the car. just doesn't make sense for it to keep frying regulators. Plus the alternators show NO sign of overheating. I have checked the field wiring and the wire from the alternator to the battery.

Very strange even the rebuilder is puzzled. If it goes again I will try a NAPA rebullt unit next.

thanks for the reply, yes it has the 140 amp alternator and a fully charged NEW battery. The car doesn't have a drain on it, When the regulator fails the women that drives the car or her daughter don't pay attention to the little battery icon on the dash and keeps driving it until the motor quits. the guy that rebuilds these alternators is very well known for his work, even NAPA has him do there special rebuilds. I will drive the car myself for a few days after I have the charging system checked with a VAT-40, since I can only check voltage and not amp output on the car. just doesn't make sense for it to keep frying regulators. Plus the alternators show NO sign of overheating. I have checked the field wiring and the wire from the alternator to the battery.

Very strange even the rebuilder is puzzled. If it goes again I will try a NAPA rebullt unit next.


I believe then that this alternator, the original is being rebuilt. and the regulator is failing at a progressively faster rate......this usually means that the stator winding in the alternator is bad........I would get for my impala a new alternator....I believe 180.00.....the impala is a high resale value car so it's not like putting money in a caprice........on the current output testing... I use a amp probe this clamps around the alternator output red wire the leads then go to a vom that can measure millivolts if the meter states 66mv =66amps....this would be the out put on my silverado.... never tried it on impala never had any alternator issues.. if the weather improves here i'll give it a check and get back to you......

the problem is in the alternator I agree, it's what he calls the spinning rotor syndrome. It's the ONLY part that hasn't been replaced in the alternator. When it's being tested on the machine it not being heated up and spinning fast enough to cause one of the windings in the rotor to short out by the centrifical force. When I test the alternator I've just been starting it up and letting it idle, check the voltage and give it to the owner. I'm sure if I warmed it up and road test it the thing would of failed on me.

Anyway he has order a new rotor for it and will try again. I know that I could just try another alternator, but what fun it that....LOL

the problem is in the alternator I agree, it's what he calls the spinning rotor syndrome. It's the ONLY part that hasn't been replaced in the alternator. When it's being tested on the machine it not being heated up and spinning fast enough to cause one of the windings in the rotor to short out by the centrifical force. When I test the alternator I've just been starting it up and letting it idle, check the voltage and give it to the owner. I'm sure if I warmed it up and road test it the thing would of failed on me.

Anyway he has order a new rotor for it and will try again. I know that I could just try another alternator, but what fun it that....LOL

every time this occurs your damaging the engine and other componets... it is best to just get a new alt. if you are going to keep vehicle....

Thanks for the reply jcat. Believe me this is the last time this alternator will be repaired. It's just one of those things you have to know what is causing the problem in the alternator. I will replace the unit if by chance it fails again. I'm sure the electronics in the vehicle are screaming for some steady voltage. Give me a few days and will reply with the results of the replaced rotor.

Bill

Problem solved it was the rotor inside the alternator causing the regulators to fail.

Problem solved it was the rotor inside the alternator causing the regulators to fail.

thanks for that feed back and good luck.....