68 chevelle tie rods
rsr2388
01-30-2008, 11:27 AM
i am needing to replace the tie rods and im not sure on how to do so?
MrPbody
01-30-2008, 12:39 PM
You need a service manual. The process is fairly straight-forward, but if you have to ask, you might consider having a pro do it. It WILL require alignment when you're done.
Remove the cotter key. Loosen (do not remove) the nut. Smack the spindle where the "bayonet" goes through the "eye" with a BIG hammer. It will distort the taper just enough for the bayonet to break free. It will drop a bit, but the nut will keep it from falling all the way. Sometimes, they're simply too rusty or old for this to work. You then need a "pickle fork", to split the joint away from the spindle. This will destroy the boot, but new ones should come with new boots.
Measure approximately, how much distance there is between the ends before removing the sleeves. When you install the new ones, you can get it very close. I would replace the sleeves while you're at it, unless there's zero (as in none at all) rust, and they turn freely once loosened. Use the holes for the Zerk fittings for reference while measuring.
Look closely at the centerlink, too. The "ball joint" there is prone to wear. Idler arms are also the culprit many times, when the tie rods are blamed.
Good luck, but BE SAFE. If it doesn't come apart relatively easily using these directions, SOMETHING IS WRONG. If you get to that point, get a pro.
Jim
Remove the cotter key. Loosen (do not remove) the nut. Smack the spindle where the "bayonet" goes through the "eye" with a BIG hammer. It will distort the taper just enough for the bayonet to break free. It will drop a bit, but the nut will keep it from falling all the way. Sometimes, they're simply too rusty or old for this to work. You then need a "pickle fork", to split the joint away from the spindle. This will destroy the boot, but new ones should come with new boots.
Measure approximately, how much distance there is between the ends before removing the sleeves. When you install the new ones, you can get it very close. I would replace the sleeves while you're at it, unless there's zero (as in none at all) rust, and they turn freely once loosened. Use the holes for the Zerk fittings for reference while measuring.
Look closely at the centerlink, too. The "ball joint" there is prone to wear. Idler arms are also the culprit many times, when the tie rods are blamed.
Good luck, but BE SAFE. If it doesn't come apart relatively easily using these directions, SOMETHING IS WRONG. If you get to that point, get a pro.
Jim
G.A.S.
01-30-2008, 01:09 PM
take a look at this link.
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm .
it may help give you an idea of what you are doing
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm .
it may help give you an idea of what you are doing
joe68
02-07-2008, 09:38 PM
yes you need to be carefull,but this is not that hard,and once off measure twice before you take apart and you will be thankfull after ,a pickle fork is a nessary tool in this case. measure both side do not assume that both are the same! do one at a time. you will find that you need to turn the wheels to get the inner rod out of center link,once you do them,you will tell yourself that was easy! don't forget that alignment,if for some reason you are way off on the measurment,have the car tow to the shop that doing the alignment to be safe and to not cause wear on you tires.who told you that you need them? did you see the movement in the ball as far as outer-up and down and inner in and out.
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